Replacing Engine Batteries

[David and Teresa]

I had the house batteries replaced in January and now it's time for the engine batteries. I'm planning on doing it myself. So, just to make sure I don't do anything stupid, I'm assuming all I need to do is turn off the engine battery switch in the battery compartment and unhook the cables, noting the proper connections. Then I install new batteries with the same cable connections and turn the switch on. Anything else?

David and Teresa

[encantotom]

hi david,

with the positive cable, just be very careful not to touch any ground with it. to be safe, i put a zip lock bag around it. particularly when you are hooking the second battery up.

btw, i didnt put AGM batteries for the engine batteries, (i put interstate AGM in for the house batteries) i bought mine at sams club and paid 130 dollars each for them. they are made by interstate and actually have better specs than the interstate workhorse ones.

they are VERY heavy, like 150 pounds each, so have some help putting them in.

and take it from my wife, she reminds me of how many shirts i have with battery acid holes in them....it will happen if you are not careful.

call me if you need any other advice, but you shouldnt need it.

tom

[David and Teresa]

Thanks, Tom.

Great advice, every point.

David and Teresa

[Richard and Rhonda]

When replacing batteries or jump starting it's a good practice to connect the negative last.

[prairieschooner]

I was taught to always disconnect the Negative Terminal first, that is the one with the (-) Symbol near the Post and is the Chassis Ground. I would recommend that you clean the inside of the Battery Cables, most auto parts stores sell this Tool. Use a Corrosion Inhibitor (a greasy fluid) to help keep a good connection. Always connect the Negative Terminal last so that the Battery is not connected until you are ready for it.

[David and Teresa]

Well, I went through the whole procedure of taking them out, taking them to a battery store to get load tested. Guess what? They're OK. So, went home and re-installed them (oh, my back). What got me started on this was recently I went to start the engine and let it run a few minutes, which I do each week, and it wouldn't start. Acted like the batteries to me, but now I think it is the keyed switch in the steering column. It cranked fine when started from the engine compartment.

Thanks for the input. I now have another thing I can do on my own.

David and Teresa

[fulltiming]

Take a look at this thread on the switch settings in the rear and the other issues that can cause a starting issue. http://www.newellclassic.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1166 (http://www.newellclassic.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1166&highlight=start+switch)

[David and Teresa]

Just to update this thread in hopes of helping someone else out. Completely stumped, I took the coach to my mechanic and I had two issues. The reason I couldn't start from the front was a wire inside the steering column came loose. I doubt that I could have ever found that. The second issue was with the starter itself. It seems there is a dead spot on the armature so every so often, when the starter randomly stopped there, turning the key did nothing but 'click'. I couldn't have found that either.

Anyway, I hope this helps.