Engine Air Filter

[GORDON HUMMEL]

In the process of doing a service, I was horrified @ the cost of the air filter. Of course it is also the housing, on mine, not just an element, $ but 187.00 @ O'reilly's for a Wix #46851 seems high. NAPA #6851 was $ 204. The Donaldson P524838 is < $90.00 wholesale, but I have to buy +/- 20 of them. Same with the Fram CA6623.

Just wanted to see what others are doing on this item ?

[chockwald]

Wow...I wish mine had been as low as $187! I paid closer to $300 for the filter on my 1982 6V92TA!

[prairieschooner]

I just did a google search with that part number;
http://www.machinerypartsstore.com/store/products/Donaldson:P524838.html
$113.78 = shipping. I know of a place in Yuma where I get my Donaldson filters that may have a better price but they do not accept credit cards anymore.
Donaldson is a very well respected Filter and I prefer them.

[chockwald]

Thanks, Steve...I've added that link to my Newell folder for future reference. I just replaced mine about 1 year ago. How often should they be replaced???

[prairieschooner]

I have a Vacuum Gauge that is attached to the Air Filter. The Vacuum Gauge shows in the Red Band when the Filter is Dirty---elevated vacuum, the intake becomes restricted from a Dirty Filter.
Here is picture showing the Vacuum Gauge, it is located just to the left of the Start Switch.

[chockwald]

I don't have that vacuum gauge....would it be difficult to install? Can I pickup one at Autozone, or is this a specialty item?

[prairieschooner]

Check your Filter Cannister for a tube where you could attach the Gauge. Should be a simple piece of tubing to the Canister. It may be harder to find the Gauge than to hook it up. You may check with a Truck Parts Store try Franklin Truck Parts;
http://www.franklintruckparts.com/

[chockwald]

Hey, found one just like yours at Ryder Fleet Products for $44:

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/products/product_detail.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1183566127.125 4251913@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadeiheljkfmcfkmcgfmdfoldflm.0&oid=51561

[prairieschooner]

With the cost of a new filter and the results from running with a clogged filter, it does make sense to have all of the help we can get.

[encantotom]

i think i paid about 120 bucks for mine at a truck filter shop in phoenix.

if you shop around, you can find them cheaper than the first ones you find.

btw, i write the installation date and mileage on the end with a magic marker.

tom

[folivier]

Does anyone have the part #'s for the various filters for our 8v92?
Or know where I can look them up.
Thanks.

[encantotom]

Donaldson P537449

Ecolite Parker # 062891003 this is the one i got.

but please check by measurements on yours.

i paid 123.05 for mine this last time.

tom

[prairieschooner]

Forest,
You can find the part number on the Air Filter but you may need to remove it in order to read it. The Oil Filter and Fuel Filters should be much easier but the numbers are on the Filters themselves. Again I prefer Donaldson Filters but that is primarily because this company has been around so long and how they are packaged.
I carry 2 Oil Filters (this same filter fits my Alison Transmission as well as the 6V92 DD. I also carry a few Fuel Filters, I am still changing them fairly regular because our Prairie Schooner sat so long before we got it.

[encantotom]

mine was a parker ecolite 062891003

the donaldson part number is P537449

i paid $123 a couple of years ago

tom

[larryweikart]

Well, I just spent another frustrating 5 hours changing my engine air filter! What a job! I'm curious if everyone, who has a series 60 around the same build time as mine, has the same problem changing the filter or maybe they have discovered an easier way to complete this task. I believe my coach, #365 has one of the first series 60 engines installed at Newell. I also think Newell must have changed the setup quickly as the way mine is configured certainly drew complaints. Thank heaven it is only required every 50k miles. Here's a pic of my set up.

[Richard and Rhonda]

Larry,

Can you elaborate or post a pic of the air filter? I see the air intake runner but I can't get a good look at the filter. I have coach 390, so mine may be like yours.

What is the challenge in changing the filter?

[larryweikart]

Richard,

I've already installed the new filter and have disposed of the old one. We are in a snow storm tonight and I don't know if I can get to our building tomorrow. When I can, I'll try to take a pic of the installed filter. The process for installing my new one consists of completely removing both turbo pipes and then releasing the 2 straps that hold the filter tight to the sidewall flange. After that it is a tight fit to remove the filter from the brackets, but with patience (which I tend to run out of) it will come out. That's the easier part. Putting the new filter in and getting the pipes properly returned to their original position can be a bear! There is not much tolerance so they have to be pretty exact in placement. Then re-tightening all the straps wraps up the job! I believe a key to not getting too frustrated is to be certain to loosen all metal straps well so that the pipes can slide out of the rubber hoses as easily as possible. This is my 3rd replacement and it certainly hasn't gotten any easier. As a side note, I would hate to have to pay the labor costs to someone who has never replaced one in me era of Newell before.

[Richard and Rhonda]

Ok, yours is just like mine. No need to brave the snow.

When I worked on my engine. I got lots of practice removing and installing the turbo pipes. LOTS.

First a 10mm nutdriver to loosen the clamps is a must. Second, one of those hose remover tools, the ones with a right angle bend at the end, helps. You scoot the nose of the tool between the hose and the pipe and walk it around to loosen the hose. Third. DO NOT USE any sort of grease to help reassemble the pipes and hoses. They will come back apart. Trust me, I know these things. You can use a little, and I mean a little soapy water to help slip them back together. And last, don't tighten any of the clamps till you get it all back together and lined up the way you want it. It definitely is a jig saw puzzle of angles and rotation to get it all back in place.

[larryweikart]

Thanks for the info Richard. I have never used one of those hose remover tools but I will be getting one soon. I have always sprayed a little penetrating oil on the pipes to help them slip back in, which I believe is ok. One question that has always entered my mind is how tight should you tighten the hose clamps? I usually tighten them down pretty good but there is always a little more room to tighten if I were to apply heavy pressure on the ratchet handle. I am a little concerned if you apply too much pressure you could possibly put a slit in the rubber. Any thoughts on that?

[JohnC]

Thanks, Steve...I've added that link to my Newell folder for future reference. I just replaced mine about 1 year ago. How often should they be replaced???

Based on my observations, the most common cause of turbo failure in a rear engine coach is a dirty air filter. If you've ever driven on a dusty road, you will have an appreciation for how the rear of the coach literally ‘vacuums’ up the dust and the dirt. Much the same happens when you pass through a construction area where the concrete cutters have left a fine talcum powder like dust on the roadway.

As an air filter begins to ‘clog’, the inflow of air is reduced and a low pressure area develops within the turbo. Without copious amounts of fresh air for the turbine wheel to compress, the turbine wheel can over-speed and self destruct. The high vacuum can also pull the oil past the bearing seal and into the compressor. The reduced air flow also creates excessive exhaust temperatures that can damage the bearing and crack the turbine housing.

Another problem is turbo blade damage caused by break-down of the air filter element. Most air filters use a hard glue to secure the paper elements. As the filter ‘clogs’ and starts to deform, the ‘chunks’ of dried glue can dislodge and get sucked into the spinning blades. With turbine wheel’s spinning in excess of 50,000 RPM this can lead to catastrophic turbine failure.

Rather than strictly adhere to a fixed hour, mileage, or calendar schedule, I suggest adjusting your filter changes based on how you use your coach. I also recommend frequent checks of your filter ‘vacuum gauge’, along with flashlight inspections of your air filter. Careful attention to your air filter, can help to preclude high cost turbo change-outs and empty wallets.

John

[larryweikart]

Thank you John for the information. My Newell usage is 95% Highway driving and to the best of my memory, I have never driven on any dirt roads. I, as well as my service center do a flashlight check on each 15000 mile service. However I don't know what you mean by a vacuum gauge unless you are referring to the gauge on the dash. I use only Doanaldson filters. With 280,00 miles on the coach I'm always concerned about potential problems.

[folivier]

I think John is talking about a Filter Minder vacuum gauge. I installed one on the rubber hose that connects the air filter to the turbo. Just drilled a hole and popped it in.
Cheap insurance.
http://www.filterminder.com/

[rheavn]

Hey Larry,
I believe John was referring to the filterminder. Maybe your coach doesn't have one. Mine is mounted in the engine bay just below the air filter. This web site will show you what they look like.

http://www.filterminder.com/air_monitors.asp

[larryweikart]

Thanks Forrest and Steve. Are you referring to the single position indicator? If not, which one do you have? Can that be added to any air filter?

[folivier]

Mine just plugged into a hole I drilled in the rubber hose between the air filter and turbo housing. They also make one with a remote indicator with hose. Both do the same.
I emailed them with my engine model and they emailed back with the proper model.

[larryweikart]

Thanks Forest, I'll be ordering one soon. With all the work it takes to change my filter I would hate to change one if it wasn't necessary, also I'd really hate to find out I did some damage by waiting too long. Have a wonderful Holiday season!

[encantotom]

i ordered a CA7230 ecolite from filterbarn. 90bucks and free shipping because i bought a couple of other filters too to get up to a 100 bucks.

i did what a number of you said to do.

1. first take off the long chrome pipe
2. i took off the long tube from the air filter to the outside vent.
3. loosen the clamps on the filter
3. take the filter out. that was actually the hardest thing to do. both taking out and putting back in as the clamps were very tight. i had to have darlene come push the filter up so i could get the clamp on when i put the new one in.

reverse process.

i think next time i could do it in 30-45min.

tom

[larryweikart]

That's almost enough of an improvement over my experience of 3-4 hours to make me want to trade. (Almost) I'll be interested in seeing the difference between our set-ups.

[rheavn]

Larry,
I took some photos to give you a picture of what the air filter set up on the coaches beginning in about '97 on the series 60 is like. You can then compare how yours differs.

Photo #1 is the air intake which is located on the right rear corner of the coach at tail light height.

Photo #2 is an overall view of the engine area. Air filter is at tail light height on left side of coach.

Photo #3 is the back side of the air inlet and shows where the inlet pipe is secured with a boot. The inlet pipe goes straight across the back of the coach and connects to the air filter. Air inlet is just above the hydraulic tank that is in the right corner of engine area.

Photo #4 shows the chrome cool air pipe. Once you remove this pipe you have good access to the inlet pipe boots on both ends, turbo pipe boot and air filter clamps. Above the chrome pipe you can see where the inlet pipe from the right side connects directly to the air filter. You can also see the strap clamps that holds the air filter in place. The air filter is up behind the tail lights on the left side.

Photo #5 shows how the filter minder connects to the turbo pipe and how the turbo pipe is connected with a boot to the air filter.

Photo #6 shows both the boot connection for the turbo pipe and the air inlet pipe.

Hope this helps................................

[encantotom]

the pictures steve posted are exactly the same as my setup.

tom

[chockwald]

I'm getting ready to replace my airfilter. This is what mine looks like. Should I be able to take the housing apart and just replace the element? This housing, plus elemenet costs $272.50. Just the filter costs around $80, but I can't seem to get it apart. Anyone have this. It's an Ecolite 546893.

[encantotom]

i am almost positive that is a totally disposable filter. you cant take it apart. i looked that part number up and it crossreferences to a bunch that are just throwaways.

i know there was an aftermarket filter that you could clean because david had one in his that i saw, but yours i do not believe is that.

filterbarn had one for 122 bucks shipped.

you just have to match dimensions and flows.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Pack Qty x1. DISPOSABLE HOUSING-Air(Outlet-178mm). Replacement for Ecolite Air Element in Disposable Housing. Inlet & outlet sizes-178mm.

To show all products in the same category as this one click LISTING tab above.

Any dimensions we have will be listed below, see INFORMATION sidebox for size charts.

Height: 657mm
OD/Width Max: 280mm
OD/Width Min: 280mm

EQUIVALENTS:
Baldwin PA2722, Donaldson P537448, Farr 62891002, 62891-002, 628912, C62891002, C62891-002, C628912, C62891-2, C62891-2 SERIES, C628912SERIES, Fleetguard AH1105, AH8503, Fleetrite AHR81105, Fram CA7230, In-Line Filters FBW-PA2722, Kralinator LA1517, Luberfiner LAF1848, Purolator A55094, Wix 46893, 546893

[folivier]

Don't know about taking it apart, looks like it's crimped together.
I bought an ECO II Air Cleaner Filter Assy WIX 546851 off ebay for about $70
You might try crossing over the number at filterbarn, or summitracing then look on ebay.
If I remember I think you just need the outlet diameter, filter diameter, and length and should be able to match it up.
Good luck.

[chockwald]

Thank you Tom and Forest! You are both right, it cannot be taken apart....lol...I'll let it go at that. I ordered the equivalent air filter (Fleetguard, Part # AH8503) on Filterbarn for $122.50 shipped! I paid $348 last time when I was still a neophyte.

Cap'n Steve....do you have the same type of air filter set up that I do?