Door Repair (Where's Rosie-the-riveter when I need her?)

[HoosierDaddy]

My coach was vandalized prior to my purchase. The vandals attempted entry (unsuccessful)by prying on the door. This damaged the door edge and broke the factory applied adhesive that held the door "sandwich" together. I have not had good success with replacing the adhesive so I reverted to the fastening method used by Newell for years......rivets. I purchased the rivets locally and got the tool from Byler rivet supply.
http://www.bylerrivet.com/
It doesn't look as smooth as the factory solution but IMO will be acceptable.........especially after the new paint job I have planned for the future.

[folivier]

Did you have to remove the adhesive before riveting (and how?)? My door is showing some delam. also and I'll have to fix it soon.

[HoosierDaddy]

I painstakingly scraped the factory adhesive out before using a GUARANTEED metal adhesive from Lowes Depot. I applied the adhesive and clamped the entire perimeter of the door except the hinge side which was still sound. The adhesive did not work. They were good on their guarantee and gave me my $ back. However digging that stuff out was nearly impossible. I just left it in there and installed the rivets.
In hindsight I should have just left the factory adhesive in there and riveted it.
I'm told that there is an automotive adhesive available at body shop suppliers. If you dont want rivets and are able to dig the factory adhesive out it may work but it would need to be squeaky clean I'm thinking.

[Richard and Rhonda]

The prooblem with ANY adhesive and aluminum is that the surface of the aluminum oxidizes very rapidly. The oxidation causes the adhesive to delaminate. Think about trying to get glue to stick to a heavy rusted piece of iron. Same thing with AL, only the oxidation is not as pronounced. Even if you scuff it, it oxidizes within seconds.

The redneck way of bonding aluminum is to put the epoxy on it, and use a scrub brush to scuff the surface. The epoxy keeps the aluminum coated and the air away from it. Messy as all get out though.

Yes there are some very special surface treatments that can be used to promote adhesion on aluminum, after all many aluminum cars like Lotus are bonded, not welded, together. Probably the most common one is something called Allodyne

My door is also beginning to separate a little. When it gets bad enough, I'll clean as much of the goop out as I can, and go down the rivet road.

[tuga]

I have used an epoxy - PC 7. It is a 2 part epoxy, and it works great.

I used it on my AC grills which are mounted in a bay door on each side of my coach. We removed the grills, sanded them, cleaned them, and then applied the PC 7 and re-installed. Good strong weld that has held for about 4 years so far.

I would recommend PC 7 (can buy it at any hardware store) for any PERMANENT job.

[prairieschooner]

Here is a link to West Systems Epoxy;
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
This is the stuff that has become the Industry Standard in the Marine Environment. This Epoxy even works Below the Waterline or Constantly Submerged! I have used it for probably as long as it has been out and have found it to be a very useful tool.

[1992newell]

do you need any parts for a 1993 newell. i have a perfect entry door and compartment doors. call Marty 616 204 2729 Michigan no rust or corrosion on any of these parts,

[1992newell]

I have a 1992 Newell that i was planning on painting also in the near future. Have you found someone that does quality work at a resonable price. Marty 616 204 2729 or email hupmobile1934@yahoo.com

[charlesb]

What type of rivet did you use?

Thanks cb

[HoosierDaddy]

I used these in aluminum:

http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/solid-rivets.aspx?cat=260

solid brazier head...in addition to the aforementioned tool I used a large hammer for a riveting buck (on the back side)

You can learn a lot about riveting on byler's web-site and on the airstream forums:
http://www.airforums.com/