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prestadude
03-30-2011, 07:18 PM
In Wally Arntzen's thread on the failure of his differential, he discussed towing issues stating that a tow truck could not tow his rig without damage and that a lowboy was needed. Now I hope to never tow my Newell, but if I have to I what it done right. Unfortunately, I don't know what is "right". Does anyone know what the recommended towing method is? Lowboy for all Newells or just a subset? Why is the lowboy necessary? I have seen other motorhomes towed with a BIG tow truck, why not Newell? I a hoping that from the responses to this thread I can work up an emergency towing procedure so I know what towing methods to demand and why. I want to avoid being bamboozled by a towing firm that thinks they know what they are doing but really don't. Oh, and let's not forget things that need to be done to the rig in preparation for the tow (disconnect drive shaft, pressurize air brakes, ???).

rheavn
03-31-2011, 01:41 AM
Tim,
I too am interested in any one's personal experience. I had to have my Country Coach towed three times. The Country Coach owner's manual explained the towing procedure very well and the towing each time went without a bad incident. When I read the Newell owner's manual & saw no towing procedure I contacted Newell for their towing procedure. They had none. On the Country Coach they had to hook an air hose to keep the suspension aired up, but the connection was in the front. On the Newell it is in the RR compartment. Hopefully some one who has had the unfortunate experience will educate us. Otherwise I see a low boy as the only option.

encantotom
03-31-2011, 02:43 AM
attached are a few pictures of towing my coach. there was so little clearance at the trailer hitch when going up the bed of the truck that they put a set of wheels to prevent it from causing problems.

i just didnt want to have them take the driveshaft off.

i had a cracked head so i didnt want to run it much...i did enough to raise it a little.

this was a humongo rig i gotta tell you

tom

folivier
03-31-2011, 03:44 AM
Wow, not much clearance on the sides!
Do you remember where they hooked the cable to winch it up?

Wally Arntzen
03-31-2011, 04:33 AM
Hi Guys, the truck that Tom's went on looks like the same one that picked up mine. I raised the air bags all the way up as far as they go and it went on with nothing scraping or even coming close to it.
The tow guy was impressed at how high I could raise it and once it was on truck he had me lower the bags all of the way down to assist in getting under the low bridges on the highway. There was no need to disconect the drive shaft because with the differential out it was not able to make anything go.
The first guy that came out to get me said that his truck could lift my coach and haul with no problem but the way it was constructed it was not possible to get the arms under the coach to lift without doing a lot of damage to the coach. The bus repair garage spoke to this guy before he came out and informed that they prefer to have Prevost's and Newells and some other coaches hauled to them on a LowBoy type vehicle to prevent any further damage to the vehicles coming to them for repairs.

rheavn
03-31-2011, 11:16 AM
Tom,
Thanks for the pictures. They are helpful. There is another type of lowboy, but I have no pictures. The other type is easier to get up on & limits the hitch clearance issue. Yes, unfortunately, I have used this other type. The tractor unhitches from the lowboy trailer. The front hitch area of the trailer lowers down & becomes the loading ramp--less angle than the one Tom used. The coach is winched up with the front pointing to the rear. The trailer front is then raised back up & locked in place. The tractor then hitches back up. With my Country Coach on board he was able to go from Buckeye to Tucson without exiting at bridges, but my Country Coach was only 11'9" tall. My Newell is 13'3". The tow was over $1600 and my AAA RV tow insurance paid the entire bill. I now have two tow insurance policies, but that is another story for another time! Hopefully this helps someone make a towing plan that they never have to use.

larryweikart
03-31-2011, 02:30 PM
This just happened on our return trip from Fl. and we were very lucky that it happened, I think, just before we stopped to fuel and I noticed while we were fueling during my walk around. Hopefully this info will help others avoid a similar problem, and a towing adventure. Our Detroit Series 60 has a canister (no one can tell me it's purpose) located on the side of the engine on the curb side. A fuel line runs into it and then continues around the front of the engine to the drivers side. The way it was run allowed for it to wear thru causing a major fuel leak! Newell service tells me it must not be a necessary item because it was discontinued on later Series 60 Detroits. My coach, #365, was an early Series 60 so, you may want to give yours a look see! Hope this avoids a future problem for my fellow Newell owners. We were lucky we didn't have to be towed, which I dread the day if it were to happen. (A big knock on wood!)

chockwald
03-31-2011, 03:00 PM
All this talk about towing makes me nervous. So far my problems have been solved in the field (blown tire and starter trigger wire, loose connection on rear panel). I do, however, carry several forms of towing insurance just to be sure I'm fully covered. If Good Sam and/or AAA fail to cover everything then my coach (auto) insurance policy will pick up the rest.

rheavn
03-31-2011, 03:21 PM
Don't mean to make any one nervous but as a veteran I can tell you my third tow was easier than my first. And that was because I planned what to do to make it easier the next time. By the third time the tow driver said that having some one present who knows the towing procedures for their coach was very helpful. Even with that it is not a pleasant experience & I'm with Larry knocking on the biggest piece of wood I can find! Now I'm going out to check all my fuel lines for wear. Thanks Larry.

ABnormal
03-31-2011, 07:30 PM
When I blew an inside rear tire, it took out both airbags. With no air in the system, the body drops to about an inch or two clearance over the tires. The tow driver disconnected the drive shaft, "keyed the brakes", replaced the tire and placed a 4x4 block of wood somewhere underneath where he hoped to keep the body off the tire. No such luck. It was crushed and the tire started taking out the insulation. Got off at the next exit and called for a low boy. No one wanted to take the job because of the bridge height issue. Luckily an older gentlemen came over and asked what the problem was. Told him and it turns out he owned a garage across the road. He called in a mechanic to repair the air bags the following week.

The Allstate Motor Club would not dispatch a tow truck until I could tell them the exact distance from the front bumper to the center of the front wheel. I suppose for purposes of dipatching the correct size tow truck. Luckily I had a measuring stick.

Hope that never happens to anyone else!

Larry P.

express1
03-31-2011, 11:11 PM
OK, now thats out the way. Who has NOT been towed in last 5 years....
Me, for one and I've traveled alot in 3 different coaches:thumbsup:
I now thank VMSpc for keeping me alert on most info.....
Don't drive much after dark.
Keep fluids clean.
and most important, Watch out for the other jackass.
Hope I can go 5 more years without being towed.....
Limping in does'nt count.......
Most likely will stay on the porch in 5 years and wave as other go past:o

Summersgal
04-01-2011, 02:52 AM
How about these pic's

folivier
04-01-2011, 03:38 AM
Wow! Do you know what caused the frame to break?
Hope he didn't have to haul you too far with that rig.

Summersgal
04-01-2011, 11:33 AM
Forest

No..Do not know what caused the frame to break. Newell never said for sure. As you can see with the rust on the frame it had been like that for some time.
They had to haul it for 90 miles to the factory. 5 hour trip @ 20 mph!
And the really sad thing...We had just purchased the coach, was on our way to Newell for new tires and etc. Spent 5 hours on side of the road and then the 5 hour trip to Newell. LONG NIGHT!
This is one of the things that is now on Newell's checklist to check on each coach.

express1
04-01-2011, 12:51 PM
Ain't no limping back on THAT. My coach was built 5 later...437. Did Newell cover the repair to frame?

chockwald
04-01-2011, 01:03 PM
Jeff and Pam....OUCH! What a way to start your Newell ownership! Like others have asked, did Newell cover the repair?

rheavn
04-01-2011, 05:14 PM
Jeff & Pam,
You have brought new meaning to the phrases "working the bugs out" and "new coach blues". I'm glad you were close to Newell & they were able to get your gorgeous coach roadworthy again.

Richard and Rhonda
04-02-2011, 01:00 AM
Larry,

Can you take a picture?

Summersgal
04-02-2011, 01:49 AM
Newell did not have to cover, our insurance took care of it all. Two new lower air bag frames, four new air bags, new shocks, new leveling valves, 8'x10' of new skin on the drivers side rear (rivets broke out and skin rippled), paint and re securing the wheel flares. A lot of damage was also done by the wrecker. They hooked their chains to two points that they thought were strong enough to lift the coach. They were able to lift the coach about two feet up (this allowed the drive wheels to get off the ground). It was in the air for about a minute when there was a loud noise and the coach fell to the ground. The points they hooked to were actually part of the cartridge that the engine and trans are mounted too. This allows the engine and trans to slide out after removing two 3/8's bolts on each side. These bolts sheared and the couch fell, the wrecker was still hooked to the engine frame. thus twisting it until the chains flew off. Newell was great, and worked with us through out the whole ordeal. I will take some pictures of where they first hooked up and ripped up the cartridge slides so this does not happen to anyone else.

express1
04-02-2011, 01:58 AM
I've got to say, you guys held it together..... I would have thrown in the towel and Drank a few Jack and cokes.......and taken up aquariums....

folivier
04-02-2011, 02:39 AM
I guess this is why we all need a "recommended practices" or whatever if we ever need to be towed. That is my biggest fear that the tow driver will screw up things worse!

chockwald
04-02-2011, 04:41 AM
"..and taken up aquariums...."

Matt....I am still laughing....

prestadude
04-02-2011, 04:56 PM
Jeff and Pam, tell me more about your insurance that covered the cost of your interesting mishap (interesting for us, terrible for you). I don't think my insurance would cover the initial mechanical failure but damage from towing would be covered. Your insurance covered the mechanical failure? If so, let's hear more about your coverage and insurance company.

chockwald
04-02-2011, 08:14 PM
Tim, I have been wondering about that, too. I am an insurance agent, and generally the insurance companies consider a structural, or mechanical failure to be "wear and tear", unless it can be linked some road hazard that was run into, or over causing the damage. I'm pretty sure the tow truck damage would be covered by either the policy on the coach, or the policy of the tow tow truck driver (negligence). Typically "wear and tear is excluded", so I'm curious to hear how/why the insurance company decided to pay for that.

Bob Scott
04-03-2011, 04:44 AM
Just another view on towing a Newell. About two years ago we were returning from a cross country trip to Florida and about 85 miles from home when a piston failed. Needless to say we ended up with both sides of our Series 60 with big openings. It also took out the air compressor as well as the hydraulic filter and pump. We definitely were going to need a tow. The second wrecker was sure he could haul the coach. I had my doubts but we were about 6 hours into the ordeal so I consented to let him try. We were on the shoulder of I-5 and traffic was heavy, so I told him that he could tow the coach the 1/4 of a mile to the first exit without disconnecting the drive shaft. Safety being the primary issue of getting off a steep hill and into a truck stop parking. Sounds like a good plan, right? Wrong. The first problem came to light when the tow truck tried to make a right turn off the freeway. He couldn't make the turn. There wasn't enough weight on the truck front axle to make the turn. They called out a low boy and hauled the coach home. The lesson learned is DON'T let any one try to tow a three axle Newell. Use a low boy that unhooks from the tractor and will flatten out to a very shallow angle. Ideally the coach should be winched on as this method is easier to control rather than trying to drive. By the way I have AAA insurance and they have treated me very favorably and I can recommend them without any reservation.

larryweikart
04-03-2011, 06:29 PM
Larry,

Can you take a picture?

I'll do my best when I get to the coach this week.

Summersgal
04-04-2011, 01:22 AM
I have attached a picture that shows were not to let a wrecker service attach their hooks. There are a couple bolts inside the channel frame that keep if from sliding out. They will not hold the entire weight of the coach!

tuga
04-04-2011, 02:26 PM
I would like to see a post from John Clark on the proper way to tow a Newell. I realize that different models may have different towing requirements, so it may be a long post but I think it is something that most Newell owners would like to see.

What kind of wrecker should be called? Low Boy, etc.

How the wrecker should hook up the front or the back in order not to sustain any damage.

Should they use cable or chain?

Should the drive shaft be disconnected to put it on a low boy wrecker or just put the coach in neutral?

Should the axle(s) be removed?

There seems to be a great deal of interest in this subject, and I am sure that we can all benefit from such a post.

Thanks.

RussWhite
04-04-2011, 04:20 PM
I would like to see a post from John Clark on the proper way to tow a Newell. I realize that different models may have different towing requirements, so it may be a long post but I think it is something that most Newell owners would like to see.

Thanks.

Tuga,
I agree completely. Hoping I will never need a tow is probably not what I should be doing. If you would like I will be happy to forward your suggestion to John along with a link to this thread. I did reread my owner's manaul and the subject is not covered there.
Russ

express1
04-04-2011, 04:53 PM
Not to jump ship,,, but if you log on to wanderlodge owners forum there is a complete list of "to do's" prior and during towing... Also a complete section on being towed out of sticky situations. Great and funny reading...

Also after further looking at the picture... I'm not sure the section that is broken is actually the FRAME. It looks more like some sort of axle support or swing arm... which could happen if wheel fell into some sort of hole?

Anyone, confirm that the broken part is the coach FRAME.

tuga
04-04-2011, 05:22 PM
Tuga,
I agree completely. Hoping I will never need a tow is probably not what I should be doing. If you would like I will be happy to forward your suggestion to John along with a link to this thread. I did reread my owner's manaul and the subject is not covered there.
Russ

That would be great Russ. I think that John Clarke is the go to guy here.

rheavn
04-04-2011, 07:52 PM
If any one is interested in reading about and seeing pictures of a front loading low boy use the link. This particular trailer is a little short, but they come longer, just couldn't find photos of longer one. http://www.chassisking.com/products/low-boy-trailers/50-ton-low-boy-trailer (http://www.chassisking.com/products/low-boy-trailers/50-ton-low-boy-trailer/)

Here is another link showing a bus being loaded. Give you a good idea of what it will take to tow a Newell. http://www.traileze.com/TE80DG-Bus.html

prestadude
04-04-2011, 08:24 PM
Rheavn, thanks for the links although I experienced severe pucker just watching the loading and unloading videos. I think I would probably pass out if I had to do the same thing for real.

tuga
04-04-2011, 08:30 PM
I decided to call Newell about towing. I spoke to Creslie Clark and here is what he told me.

TOWING A NEWELL

Request a 50 Ton wrecker w/T bar. The T bar slides under the front of the Newell and nylon straps are put around the front wheels. Then the T bar lifts up the front of the coach off of the ground.

Next, get the wrecker driver to disconnect the drive shaft completely and tie it off to the side so the engine idling won’t bother any thing.

If the engine can idle let it idle to provide air to the brakes. If the engine can’t idle get the wrecker to run an air line to the back of the Newell and connect it to the shop air connection in the engine room passenger side. The wrecker needs to have an air compressor. Tape the air hose to the side of the Newell.

The key to success is to request and use a good wrecker. I don't think I would use a low boy wrecker. I would wait for a 50 Ton wrecker w/a T bar.

Like a friend of mine says, "If you're going to be a bear, be a grizzley."

rheavn
04-04-2011, 08:39 PM
Tuga,
From experience get a front loading low boy. There is no way my trailer hitch would not drag when the driver raises the front of the coach. Also do you want an air line taped to the side of your coach. It will chafe & show when done--I know it happened. Sorry to disagree with Newell, but I don't see where a T-bar wrecker will work without causing some damage. I was able to use a T-bar wrecker on my Country Coach, but there was a lot more ground clearance in the rear.

JMHO...........................

PS: Tim, If you do not pucker when you're being towed it can only be because it has happened too many times!

tuga
04-04-2011, 10:12 PM
Steve,

If your engine can not, run how will you get air to hold your brakes open? I wouldn't relish the idea of having an air line run down the side of my coach but what else could you do?

Also, the air line will keep the air bags pumped up so that your rear end could ride about 4" higher. I will admit that our Newells do run low but I think we could increase the clearance by using the HWH leveling feature.

Creslie's suggestions will work only if the rear of the coach is in tack. The problem that happened to the 1996 Newell (I believe it was Summersgal) was damage to the rear. In that case I would call for a low boy.

Creslie sounded like the majority of the time Newell recommends the 50 Ton T-bar wrecker.

It will be interesting to hear John Clarke's take on this thread.

rheavn
04-04-2011, 10:47 PM
I'm sure it is not wise on my part to disagree with Newell. I'm sure they have seen many coaches towed in. Using a front load low boy, they will winch your coach up and keeping it aired up won't be necessary once it is loaded. I sure wish Newell had put a air connection under the front as that would sure take away the running an air line the length of the coach. I'd sure like to talk with some one that has successfully used a T-bar wrecker. The last person I know of that used a T-bar wrecker to tow a Newell received damage to the front of their coach. Didn't get to talk with him so it may have been tow driver error.
The sad part of this thread is that I went 25 years without ever having a coach towed. Since 2001 I have been towed four times. I'm hoping the Newell changes my luck!

encantotom
04-04-2011, 10:59 PM
i do have an air hookup in the bay in front of my drivers side front wheel. it has a pressure gauge in it in this picture.

i just had the gauge in when i was checking pressures on the new compressor i put in.

tom

folivier
04-05-2011, 12:29 AM
Hey Tom, did you add that front connector?
I might look at mine and maybe add a connector.

Wally Arntzen
04-05-2011, 01:05 AM
They came to my coach with a truck with a T Bar and it took him less that 5 minutes to addmit that he could not tow it because of the way it was built both from the front or the rear. He stated that his truck could lift and tow the coach with no problem as far as weight goes but damage would result from the towing.
Putting my coach on the low boy was a peice of cake. He pulled it on with the winch and nothing scraped on the ground as a result of raising the bags all of the up. I really don't care if Newell or anybody says that you should use the T Bar I can guarantee that mine will never be towed that way if it becomes nessesarry again.
Thats my thoughts and I'm sticking with them.

chockwald
04-05-2011, 01:46 AM
Having had numerous cars towed over the years I am 100% convinced that a flat bed is the way to go. Would never have my Newell towed with a T-bar, and I don't have the clearance issues you guys with tag axles have. Even when I owned the Tioga Class C motorhome I would not let it be towed with a T-Bar. The one time I needed a tow they sent a low boy, thankfully.

Summersgal
04-05-2011, 02:48 AM
Also after further looking at the picture... I'm not sure the section that is broken is actually the FRAME. It looks more like some sort of axle support or swing arm... which could happen if wheel fell into some sort of hole?

Anyone, confirm that the broken part is the coach FRAME.It was not the main frame that broke, the piece's that broke in half support the main drive axle. There is an air bag mounted on each end of the support. Both supports were cracked in the exact same way and place. For those with this vintage coach, the crack was hidden behind one of the large U-bolts that hold the frame piece to the rear end and would be difficult to detect. Newell now checks all coach's with this setup.

encantotom
04-05-2011, 02:46 PM
after being towed once with the semi that pulled me on on its deck, i would agree with wally. i would never use a T-bar. could be something is different with the newer newells.

the reason i was towed is i had a cracked head. i was trying to minimize how much i had the engine running. i did raise it some.

forest, i did replumb part of the compressor compartment, but it already had the air chuck in it. it would be easy to add. it is quite handy to have. i dont have to have a long hose to top off the tires.

tom

tuga
04-05-2011, 03:02 PM
I called Tommy Key with Newell this morning and he told me that if you are traveling a long distance the low boy wrecker is the way to go. He also said that if the coach is aired up using the wrecker compressor it should ride high enough to be towed with a T bar wrecker if that is the only wrecker available and if you only have to be towed a short distance.

I agree with you guys; the low boy wrecker is the best way to tow a Newell.

I am going to start a new thread on "ride height adjustments".

prairieschooner
04-05-2011, 03:57 PM
I have a 120 Volts AC Electric GAST Air Compressor that is permanently mounted in the engine bay that would help get the coach leveled without the Diesel. There is a Quick Disconnect Fitting for the Air Supply and we do carry a length of Air Hose that will reach all of the Tires.
It should not be hard to install the Quick Disconnect Fitting in your Air System at the rear of the coach. The Air Hose is just a few $. Now the Air Compressor would be more $$$$$$$