Detroit 60 wouldn't fire

[Barry Rooker]

When we first got our 2001 Newell, our first RV in fact,we took it on a five week, 5,000 mile "Grand Circle" trip with stops in: Amarillo; Santa Fe; Colorado Springs; Rock Springs, Wyoming; Park City, Utah; Boise, Idaho; Bend, Oregon; Newport, Oregon; Richland, Washington; Coeur d'Alene, Idaho; Bigfork, Montana; Pocatello, Idaho; Grand Junction, Colorado; Breckenridge, Colorado; Oakley, Kansas and HOME in OKC.

We knew virtually nothing about our Newell. Early on one of our two bedroom slides wouldn't move out, so we left it in. Another time a slide's locking pins wouldn't engage, Newell said we'd be fine and we were.

After completing most of our 5,000 mile "novice" trip & crossing much of Colorado on I-70 & parking at Tiger Run in Breckinridge for a planned four day stay, our Detroit 60 wouldn't fire. We were stranded but exactly where we wanted to be. The engine would crank, but no smoke although fuel was visible in the filter.

Newell said it was probably the engine crank position sensors and under warranty sent a tech 250 miles from Denver who replaced them. He said you always changed out both & there was no rhyme or reason (miles or time) to their failure. I always carry a spare set now.

[rheavn]

Barry,
Can you take a picture of one and a picture of where they go on the engine? Are they plug & play?

[Barry Rooker]

Attached are three photos, the first photo shows the tech removing the easy one, the second one shows him removing the hidden one and the third photo is of the sensors themselves. They's about $125 for a pair at a Detroit Diesel dealer, they aren't the same although they look somewhat similar.

They are potentially plug & play, with nice, waterproof electrical connectors and a single bolt that holds each of them in place in the engine block around the crank. One is easy to spot facing the "front" of the engine, at about 5 o'clock at the crank pulley. The second one hides behind the air compressor, also about 5 o'clock. Not tricky or delicate. I carry a spare set in a zip loc bag in the stainless steel electrical box in the engine area.

[RussWhite]

I have a list of sensors Tuga suggested to purchase as ones that could be involved in shutting the Detroit 60 down. On that list are the following two sensors. Could you comment if these happen to be the two to which you are referring? Do you have part numbers? Certainly sounds like something worth carrying.

Synchronous Reference Sensor 08929387
Timing Reference Sensor 08929388

Thanks,

Russ

[rheavn]

Barry,
Your pictures were worth a thousand words. I easily found both sensors, although the one behind the air compressor was by feel only. I'm glad you're on the forum as your experiences are very useful.

[Barry Rooker]

Russ,
The P/N you list are probably the sensors I'm talking about. Your local Detroit dealer should put them on the counter in front of you to look at. Familiarize yourself with my picture #3: each of these sensors has a heavy metal tab which holds them to the engine block with a single bolt, after you've pushed them into the block past their "O" rings. Both are on the pax side of the engine (as installed in a Newell) and everyone seems to call them crank position sensors.

[jqsyndo]

Same issue with me. My 2001 would crank and it just doesn't want to fire. I decided to swap out both TRS & SRS sensor after reading many posts in regards to the craniking issue.

If you guys are curious...the SRS is responsible for cranking and the TRS is responsible to keeping your engine running. You need both to operate, however you will need only one to run (TRS). Without the SRS you will not be able to crank

After staying in Michigan for 2 month and fixing variety of things. I am happy to be back on the road again.

Hope this will help other.

[rheavn]

Is the TRS the one behind the air compressor or the one on the face of the engine?

Thanks, your experience is helpful.

[jqsyndo]

The TRS is the sensor below the air compressor and the SRS is behind the air compressor.

[rheavn]

Thanks!!!!!