check engine light - loss of power

[Bill & Sonja]

Hi Guys, I have a problem today. We pulled in here next to Brad at Senators Wash (outside Yuma) two weeks ago. The 8V92 ddeck1, was running beautifully. no concerns whatsoever. I started the motor a couple times while we were here and it ran fine. We replaced the starting batteries with new 8D's as the old ones had dead cells.

Now the problem:

Started the coach to leave today and it seemed to start a bit rough and the Yellow check engine light came on.

Seemed to run ok and all the gauges and levels were right where they should be (Oil was down 3/4 quart so I topped it off).

Drove 1/2 mile and shut it down for 1/2 hour and we phoned Newell. They suggested stopping in to a Detroit dealer for a code reading. Drove another 1/2 mile and there was no power, everything sounded fine, gauges were fine, but no power - and won't seem to build revs. Sounds like something is holding it back.

So, Brad had some spare fuel filters and we change both (only had 1500 miles on old ones) and when we took them off they were only about 1/2 full. We filled the new ones with dexron mercon and stuck em on. Engine fired up after a bit of cranking but sounded good.

Drove down the road a mile and no power. Turned around and back to Brads. While sitting in neutral we revved the engine up as high as 2000 and it sounded good. When it gets to high revves the check engine light flickers off and on but is primarily on.

Greatly appreciate any thoughts from the forum? And, anyone have any tips on a good Detroit mechanic or shop in Yuma area.

Thanks if you can help, Bill

[Richard and Rhonda]

Bill,

You have covered the major issues. I would also check the air intake filter to make sure a dust bunny didn't nest there. You really need to read the codes before you go further.

If you can't get to a DD service center, do you have a PRO Driver unit? It will give the codes. Is there someone around you with a VMS Pc, that's a software package that will read the codes?

And last resort, google around and figure out which two wires to jumper in the DDEC connector at your right knee. If you jumper those two pins, the CEL will flash. You have to count the flashes and then use the DD chart to figure out what the faults are.

[Bill & Sonja]

Thanks Richard,
air filter is pretty new and the indicator shows good. I'll be on a mission to get the codes read in the morning.

[Richard and Rhonda]

More thoughts.

Do you build any boost at all? Check all your air connections to turbo and intercooler.

[Bill & Sonja]

Richard, there was very little lift on the pressure needle. I don't think it crept over 5.

[encantotom]

i have a ddec 1 and 2 real code reader. but i am in mesa.....only 3-4 hours away.

if you are going to stay there any longer i could mail it to you.

tom

[Brad Townsend]

Tom, would the code reader indicate anything that may pertain to fuel delivery issues?
Those filters should have been full when we changed them out.

Brad

[encantotom]

hi brad, i can email you the manual for the scanner if you want and you can look.

private message or email me your email address.

tom

[Bill & Sonja]

Thanks you guys, You're terrific! and I rally appreciate it.
Bill

[encantotom]

bill, if you send me your email i will send you the scanner manual if you would like as well.

you can at least see what is avail to be seen.

tom

[Brad Townsend]

Here it is
2pilgrims@gmail.com
Hopefully Bill is getting one also.

Brad

[encantotom]

so what did you guys find out?

tom

[Brad Townsend]

Whew what a day to say the least.
I am not sure if Bill is up to the web tonight so I will try to up date.
Focusing on the low fuel in the filters we started to pull fuel lines and push compressed air through in case there was a blockage. Learned that the portion of the line that comes out of the tank and goes to the air water separators has a check valve a bout 2 feet from the tank side. This is why we could not get air to go from the air water separators to the tank. But was able to blow air from tank to the Separator. Thought that might have done the job. The fuel line from the engine to the separator was open no problem there. So connected everything back trying to fill the lines first and making sure the filters was full. It started and the engine light went out so we decided to go for a ride and as we started out the light came back on, we didn't get far before we new what we did was for not. We also noticed that the drivers side of the engine was hot but the passenger side was cold after running down the road and back. Hmm. Called Newell (Tom) he said it sounds like the DDEC need to be reset. I have a DDEC2 with breaker buttons but we could not find any on Bills, he has a DDEC1. So we tried disconnecting the positive wire on the battery to see if that may reset it, the engine fire right up instantly the light was out for about a minute then back to the same problem no power. Bill went to Yuma to talk to a detroit man which he seems that the problem may be a ground problem but that is for another day. This day ended around 5pm started around 9am. I am leaning towards the DDEC with only one side of the engine running. Thanks Tom for your offer on the reader that is very kind of you. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Wondering if anyone out there with a DDEC1 has been through this! I also would like to send a big thanks to Tom at Newell as it is evident they were concerned about this and had talked among themselves in an attempt to come up with an answer.
This is a great site and Newell is the Best "The Very Best"

[Richard and Rhonda]

Brad,

I would check all the electrical connections from the DDEC to the bank of injectors on the side that is not firing. Great observation that one side of the engine is cold. I suspect that the flickering light could be another giveaway that the problem is an intermittant electrical signal. A common first strike method is to simply unplug and replug all the connections.

Checking grounds is never a bad thing, also.

[Brad Townsend]

All is well again. We found a blown fuse that seems to be the culprit to the right side of the engine shutting down. Hmm.

[folivier]

Great! I love it when it's a simple fix, though it usually turns into one of those DUHHH moments :)
Where was this fuse hiding?

[Brad Townsend]

On the front wall of the engine compartment on the passenger side.

[chockwald]

Wow, I never saw that coming......one more reason I love my all mechanical 6V92! Glad you go the problem solved!

[Bill & Sonja]

Yup, its running great! One 15 amp fuse and the help of all you folks. The power of this forum is astounding. In addition to the generosity and wisdom put forward here, Tom and others at Newell, Carlos at Diesel Automotive Services (DD shop) in Yuma and the relentless work of Brad put us back on the road . Thank you all. Bill

[Bill & Sonja]

There are 87 Newell's without the ddec and I don't personally know of any others that do have it. From what i understand there was no ddec in Newell's prior to 87. Brads is an 88 (or maybe an 89) and it has ddec2 which has the breakers for the ddec2 in the electrical compartment beside the radiator. Any way, if anyone suspect they may have this same problem the ddec is connected to the engine batteries with its own 12 gauge red and black wires. This is so that the ddec is not disconnected when the batteries are turned off. These wires are fused with 15 amp fuses housed in rubber fuse holders on the front wall of the passenger side of the engine compartment. Hopefully there will be pictures here to show the location and identify the fuses.
The symptoms of the problem are: complete loss of power, virtually no response to throttle under load and no lift on the pressure needle. The side of the motor that is still running is hot and the other side is cold to touch. Each side of the engine has its own ddec fuse. Maybe this will help someone else. It is really disturbing to have your 8V92 act this way when you don't know what's going on.

[Brad Townsend]

Pictures of Bill's fuses and location.