Switching over to Synthetic Oils in Motor Home

[Jonesy]

I have never used synthetic oil and am considering it for the MH. You hear lots of good things about it, but how much is true? Is there a negative side to it, other than cost?

Jonesy

[Chester B. Stone, Jr.]

The best price I have found for Delo 5w40 synthetic is Walmart at $20 per gallon.

[NewellCrazy]

The two biggest advantages of using synthetic are that it runs somewhat cooler and lasts longer. However, since you will, in all probability, need an oil change based on months before based on miles it will likely not be worth the added cost.

[Neweller]

I don't think it would ever make sense on a two-stroke but a lot of guys are running it in their newer engines.

Chester are you running synthetic in your coach?

[Will Procter]

According to what I have learned, synthetic oil keeps a film better than regular oil. SO......if you don't drive it for periods of time there will be less harm to the engine on start with synthetic than with regular oil. Otherwise they are both slippery and need to be changed.

[GringoPhil]

IMO, it's just a waste of money except PERHAPS when it is very cold. See what Newell says about it. "if below 0F, you MIGHT want to consider using an synthetic engine oil." Even then they fall short of a recommendation.

[folivier]

In the engine compartment of my '93 with 8v92 there is a tag that says Newell recommends Mobil 1.
But I use Shell Rotella T1 40wt.

[77newell]

I previously posted about my decision to switch my 6V92 to synthetic. I plan to do an oil analysis before changing the oil to verify it is close to needing to be changed. It may be possible to go multiple years prior to change if proven by oil analysis. I'm still pondering the filter change strategy but have this winter to figure it out.

[Archie T. Hogan]

I'm a proponent of synthetic lubricants, but I don't uses them in the engine for the reasons already cited - I change it annually and normally before I've gone the miles that standard regular oil can easily handle. For my 8000-12000 miles per year, a good quality oil is just fine. I do use synthetic transmission fluid and differential lubricant, because these are long term lubricants.

Synthetic oil retains it lubrication properties longer and holds up better under extreme heat, e.g. in an overheat situation. The high heat resistance of synthetic is especially helpful in a transmission.

Archie

[The Newell]

About Synthetic and Natural Oils

Natural automotive oils are composed of many of the same elements found in other petroleum products, and are rooted in the same crude oil pumped by oil companies from around the globe. Because natural oils are naturally occurring, there is minimal control over the inclusion of additional elements (namely sulfur) in the oil composition. Synthetic oils, however, are developed in laboratories to have precise strains of desirable chemicals, and the manufacture of the lubricants takes place in tightly controlled plants operated by major oil corporations. While natural oils possess a naturally occurring ability to lubricate surfaces, synthetic oils are specifically designed to carry out this purpose.




Low Temperature Performance

Natural oils contain a number of impurities, specifically sulfur and hydrocarbons. When an engine is first started, these impurities can inhibit the flow of oil through the engine, delaying the ability of the oil to properly lubricate moving engine components. Because synthetic oil is specifically designed to work under both low and high temperature conditions, it lacks the inhibitors that slow oil distribution; the performance-oriented synthetic oil can be quickly distributed throughout an engine almost immediately after the engine is started. According to automotive experts at Car Craft Magazine, the 0W-30 weight synthetic oil, manufactured specifically for cold conditions, flows approximately seven times faster than natural oil when an engine is first started.




High Temperature Performance

Engine temperatures can reach extreme highs under normal operating conditions, and a number of factors--including traffic jams, extended stop-and-go conditions, and even long drive-through lines---can push temperatures even higher. According to scientists at Mobil, natural oil is composed of an "inconsistent mixture of long and short chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms." This inconsistency allows natural oils to break down quickly, losing a portion of their viscosity at high operating temperatures. In contrast, the specially designed synthetic oils are engineered to withstand the highest operating temperatures of an engine, providing maximum lubrication under a wide spectrum of operating conditions.



High Mileage Engines

Conventional, natural motor oils contain a number of contaminants, and these substances can contribute to build-up in a vehicle's engine. Over time, small deposits of sulfur, hydrocarbons, and even wax can accumulate on the moving components of an engine and inhibit its operation, a condition sometimes advertised as "robbing a car of its horsepower." Synthetic oils are engineered not to build up on engine components, and some are designed to clean engines as they lubricate. For this reason, many automotive experts recommend synthetic motor oils for vehicleshttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.ehow.com/about_5333836_synthetic-vs-regular-oil-changes.html#) with more than 100,000 miles.



Price

Because natural oils are derived from naturally occurring crude, they can generally be refined and marketed at a lower cost than their synthetic counterparts. Synthetic motor oils can cost as much as twice the price of their conventional equivalents, with some specialty formulas priced at up to four times the cost of a similar weight conventional oil. As of August 2009, a quart of AMSOIL synthetic motor oil cost $8.90, yielding a cost of $44.50 for a five-quart oil change. A less expensive synthetic oil, Mobil 1, cost $7.29 per quart, or $36.45 for a typical five-quart oil change. In contrast, a generic store-brand conventional oil cost $2.79 per quart, totaling $13.95 for a typical oil change. Some of this cost difference can be recovered, however, in the longer intervals between changes allowed when using a synthetic oil, as automotive experts recommend changing conventional oils every 2,500 miles while synthetic oils can last 5,000, 10,000, or even (in extreme cases) 25,000 miles.




Read more: Shttp://www.ehow.com/about_5333836_synthetic-vs-regular-oil-changes.html (http://www.ehow.com/about_5333836_synthetic-vs-regular-oil-changes.html#ixzz2F2U4ie4r)

[Neweller]

I'm just taking in what all you guys are saying here. I too love synthetics and will continue to use them in my auto's and such and depending on what my next coach engine is etc... I will go from there. I really am interested in how Jon's (77newell), engine oil test come back, that will be huge and I'm glad some took a step on the wildside to be the guinea pig on this one. I believe he would have not have went this route without doing some homework and from his resounding knowledge. Sir, we are standing by!

Forrest, do you know what Shell changed from Rotella T to T1? Another question would be, does Newell recommend Mobil 1 for everything? I actually never knew. I'm just going with old school information, I think? I have heard from a couple different mechanics that two-strokes wash their oil too much to waste money on synthetics, but then I'm not a diesel mechanic.

Some more interesting notes here.

[Chester B. Stone, Jr.]

In answer to the Moderator's question, yes, I use synthetic in my Honda Odyssey, Series 60 Detroit, Allison transmission and 20kw generator. I use Delo 400LE 5w40 which costs $20 per gallon at Walmart. Note that Delo 400LE 15w40 simulates synthetic, but is not. In my view, the price of synthetic is insignificant compared to engine and transmission wear.

[NewellCrazy]

I thought I should also note I think it boils down to whether there is any measurable benefit from an oil that has some superior attributes but costs 2x as much. According to the engine manufacturers, a good quality fossil oil, changed at prescribed intervals, is entirely sufficient, so each of us needs to decide whether some measure of "better" is worth the cost.

[CAPTWatson]

synthetic is it really worth it or not folks? :question: I think I'm more confused now. :laugh:

[prairieschooner]

6V92 and I use DELO 100 40W. My 2 Stroke V6 wants CF-2.
I'll let everyone else experiment!

[77newell]

If you go to my previous thread about dino versus current synthetics, basically what you will find is that as best I can tell from the specs of the synthetic is that it meets the critical requirements for two stroke engines. Also note that there is currently no independent way to verify that CF-2 oils still meet that standard because the test engine used for the purpose no longer exists. For that same reason there will never be the opportunity to approve any new oils to meet CF-2, so even if the new synthetics would meet the CF-2 performance requirements they will never be so certified.

If an oil costs twice as much but lasts at least twice as long as proven by oil testing I would do that to save me the hassle of changing the oil.

Be aware that the testing of the oil will not prove the impact on the engine (the critical one seems to be carbon buildup around the rings). The testing would prove impact on the engine if the critical issue was internal engine wear. The test will prove whether the acid neutralizing capability is still working, it's still capable of holding more dirt, and that the wear additives are present in adequate amounts.

I suspect that I will never learn about any potential deleterious effects on the engine of using non=CF-2 oil since at 5,000 miles a year it will probably take another 30 years before any problems would become apparent. I'm 67 so I'm unlikely to be around at that point, it would be nice but unlikely.