Richard,
I am going to assume you are referring to the GFI external to the coach that you have plugged the coach into. Hope that is a good assumption as I am going to ramble on about that.
First a quick review of how a GFCI works.
Copied from Hot Stuff Works - When you look at a normal 120-volt outlet in the United States, there are two vertical slots and then a round hole centered below them. The left slot is slightly larger than the right. The left slot is called "neutral," the right slot is called "hot" and the hole below them is called "ground." If an appliance is working properly, all electricity that the appliance uses will flow from hot to neutral. A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit. It is able to sense a mismatch as small as 4 or 5 milliamps, and it can react as quickly as one-thirtieth of a second.
So if there exists any leakage path from the "hot" phase to ground ( not neutral ) the GFCI is just going to do its job and trip. Remember, the idea of the GFCI was never to power a coach, but to supply power to an individual device and protect the use of that device from becoming part of the leakage path from hot to ground. Your coach would have to have all circuits and appliances in perfect condition ( no leakage paths ) for the GFCI not to trip. If this happened to me I would start by opening all the circuit breakers in the AC distribution panel and crossing my fingers the GFCI did not trip then. If it does it will be a wiring leakage between the plug and the AC panel and probably not easy to find. If it does not trip, then just start closing the breakers one at a time until you find the offending circuit.
Good luck.
Russ
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