[GORDON HUMMEL]

Tom
Yes, I took the plastic off so I could have access to the inner panel without removing the door. I did not know how to remove it prior to your explaination to use a dowel & wp remover. The adhesive appeared to be other than wp paste, but until your removal instruction were posted I was @ a complete loss. I knew there had to be a process, given the way Newells are built & with all the door problems, but again I could not figure it out!

Attached is a picture of the interior door framing. To be honest, the laayout does not make a lot of sense to me, but who am I to question. This framing does NOT seam to be attached to the outer skin as it has craft tape on as did the interior of the perimeter frame.

Finished the latch side yesterday, but with all the rain & high humidity I will wait to do the top.

I have been considering adding 2-4 veritcal tensioners. Going from the hinge side, I would replace the wood screw with a long machine screw going into a turnbuckle, then allthreat or cable & make a bracket the would rivet(structual) to the latch side. There is really nothing holding the perimeter @ a fixed dimention. My thought is as the exterior skin expands, the perimeter frame where it is attached to the outer skin moves to the rear of the coach & comes in contact with the catch side jam. When this edge becomes stuck & the door is opened, eventually the frame & exterior become seperated. In my case the edge of the perimeter frame moved out & caused the sticking. The paint on the exterior skin edge is still intact so it was not sticking.
This concept would not allow the door to expand as designed(?), but rather cause it to oil can. currently the 2 large vertical trim pieces that are glued to the exterior skin & screwed at the ends would have to be modified to accomondate the oilcanning.

Would like your thoughts on this and from anyone else for that matter

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