[Richard and Rhonda]

Billy,

If you raise the coach to max height, look over the drive tire and see if you see the leveling valve mounted to the frame inboard of the drive tires. You should see an arm extended from the valve and at the end of that arm, a second vertical rod. There is usually a rubber "P" that acts as the connector. The rubber "P" has a hose clamp that tightens it to the vertical rod.

Before you reach in there !!!!!! Crib the coach with wooden blocks, jackstands, or something substantial. You do not want to put yourself in harms way at any time working under the coach or in a pinch point. You must put something under the frame to keep it from sitting down on you. Obviously, turn off the engine and ignition. This is very important. Turning off the engine, turns off the travel solenoids and isolates the height control valve. Now, reach in and loosen the hose clamp on the rubber "P" and move it in the direction you want the coach to move. If the coach is low, move the "P" up. Retighten.

Next step is critical, and can foul you up if you do not it this way. Manually lower the coach below the normal ride height, put it back in travel mode, and give it time to settle out. (make sure you remove the cribbing) If it's level and at the correct ride height, then you are done. If not rinse and repeat. If you just allow the coach to settle from it's jacked up position, it may give you a wrong reading due to the deadband in the HCV.

I am skinny enough to work in the fender well around the tires. If you can't reach that far, you will need a few helping tools. One, something long to loosen and tighten the hose clamp. Two, a pry bar of sorts to move the "P" up or down the rod.