Dean, the manual lists two fuses: a 10 amp fuse on the relay controller (typically next to the Preheat/Prime Switch and an 8 amp fuse located in the end bracket assembly or junction box. The engine should crank, but not start if the 8 amp fuse is blown. If the 10 amp fuse is blown, the engine will not crank. The junction box is the large box directly behind the fuel filter and the end bracket assembly contains the connector and the automatic voltage regulator near the junction box.
You might replace the 10 amp fuse even though it is showing voltage across it. Sometimes a fuse element will develop a slight fracture and show no load voltage but will fail to pass load current.
Looking at the wiring schematic, power from the battery goes directly to the starter solenoid, then from the starter solenoid to the air heater relay, then into terminal 1 on the connector at the rear of the controller, then to the connector strip (position P, next to 1) inside the controller then to the 10 amp fuse. You might want to confirm that the connections are good and clean at the solenoid, the air heater relay and that the contacts on the connector strip in the controller on both sides of terminal P are clean and tight. You could try a jumper from the each side of the rear of the 10 amp fuse to the trigger on the starter solenoid to verify that you have power coming into the controller and to verify that the fuse is good.
You should also be getting more than just a little fuel dripping from the injector lines.
Let us know what you find and we will continue to track down your problem.
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