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Old 03-17-2009, 02:27 AM   #1
Brad Townsend
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Default Trailer light breakers

I was wondering if anyone was familiar with the breakers for the trailer lights. I have an 88 Newell the trailer breakers are located in the right rear outside compartment. Seems that the running lights on the trailer keeps blowing after I reset the breaker. Not sure if it is in the breaker switch or where the wires connect, perhaps a relay, size is about 1 x 2 with about 5 or 6 blades at the bottom.
Any help would be appreciated. Place for parts also.
Thanks

BT
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Old 03-17-2009, 04:19 AM   #2
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I suspect the trailer wiring has a problem rather than the breaker. I would start by looking at the wires for bare spots in the insulation and then check the light fixtures themselves for a short or for rust that is causing a short circuit. If the breakers don't trip without the trailer hooked up, the likelihood is that the trailer wiring is the problem.
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:51 AM   #3
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It is a brand new trailer but I have been putting many screws in to the walls in fixing up the inside with shelving and tie downs. I will disconnect the trailer and see what happens but not sure if that would tell all without a load on the circuit, what do you think? Wonder if there is a test plug for the trailer side?
Thanks Michael.

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Old 03-17-2009, 02:49 PM   #4
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Brad, sounds like a short to me, too. Only way to find out is to test every length of wire for continuity.....that is a pain in the butt. Is this a problem that has begun to occur since you started remodelling the interior of the trailer? If so, the odds are you might have put a screw through a wire somewhere, or the insulation on a wire has rubbed against metal and is now grounding to the metal. This happened to me when I had wood floors installed in my coach. Somehow a tack went through one of the thermostat wires connecting to the front electric heater and it quit working....
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Old 03-17-2009, 04:07 PM   #5
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Brad, take a look at this site for a wiring diagram for each of the different plug types. Check the trailer plug between the ground and each of the other contacts after you have removed the bulbs. If you get an Ohm reading of 0, you have a short in that circuit. The reason for removing the bulbs is that with the bulbs in, you are just reading the resistance of the light bulb rather than the circuit itself and it will be harder to detect a short circuit.
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:28 PM   #6
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Brad, I also have an 88' Classic, (#180) If you don’t have a copy of Rear Terminal Board schematic (Lug ID’s) & Factory Trailer Plug Drawing, I can PDF a copy for you. Rear Terminal Board schematic may not be exact, but should be Very close, as the Basic Chassis Wiring doesn’t vary a lot in that model year. I pull a 22’ Hallmark style trailer and have had similar issues. Always on the Trailer side of the connection.

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Old 03-18-2009, 02:11 PM   #7
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Brad,
This does sound like a short at the Trailer side of thew wiring. The easiest way to confirm this is to use a Multi Meter and check for a short to ground. As stated above remove the Light Bulbs and disconnect the Trailer from the Coach. If you have an older Analog Meter it will Peg the Needle when you find the Short to Ground.
While there are many suppliers I know of this Test Plug at West Marine;
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...7&classNum=426

Good Luck I think that you are on the right track,
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:23 PM   #8
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Ok guys this is what I have come up with. In talking to another friend he mentioned that a short would blow the breaker right away which is not the case it takes a few minutes. Also today I connected the trailer to my Jeep and the running lights stayed on so I figure it is a weak breaker unless someone can come up with something else. If it is the breaker, does anyone know where I can get one. Newell said that they do not carry them anymore and had no other ideas but to go to the auto parts with the one in question in order to match one. My question is.. The breaker button is on the panel above the, what I am calling the breakers where all the wires connect to three separate box type junctions Left blinker, Running lights, Right blinker, Are these the breakers or is the breaker behind the pushbutton?

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Old 03-18-2009, 11:04 PM   #9
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Brad, the White Buttons are part of the Actual Circuit Breaker, they are serviced by removing the inner panel just to the right, (curb side) of the Radiator (see pics). I just went out to my Coach, the Left & Right 1x2” boxes are flashers. I could not generate any action out of the Center Unit marked taillight, even with the flashers on. I was alone, so couldn’t test with the Brakes applied. In the past, on a couple of occasions, I’ve pulled into a rest stop, and during my walk around noticed I had no Trailer Taillights, it’s always been one of the White Breaker buttons popped, (usually after an extremely violent section of the road) Reset it and completed the rest of the trip without incident. I can’t say what the breakers are rated at, as I haven’t gotten into the panel yet.
Duanne
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:12 AM   #10
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Brad, the Left & Right 1x2” boxes are relays not flashers, I apologize for that. I was reporting conditions found vice the actual components. Sounds like your trailer lighting issue is caused by the Breakers tripping early.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:56 PM   #11
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Duanne.
I thought the box type units were relays but not sure, thanks. Seems that i will have to get behind the breakers and see what can be done there. Currently I have been traveling from Yuma to the east coast and now just arrived in Bay St. Louis Louisiana. Heading for florida to meat with family then off to New Hampshire for the summer. I am ok with the trailer lights for day running for now. Hope to have some down time in Florida to further chase this thing down.
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:01 PM   #12
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Brad, sounds like great trip! We were in the Tampa area for the Thanksgiving Holiday visiting with our Marine stationed there. The last time we went to Hampton, NH. We went by way of the George Washington Bridge into NYC, recommend you don’t cross the Bridge, as the Tolls for 5 axles and congestion are both outrageous! Have a Great Trip, and keep us posted.
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Old 03-22-2009, 11:10 AM   #13
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Duanne

Now in Lake City Fl.
Well I replaced the breaker with one I found at Napa for $4.99 rated at 10 amps not 8 as marked on the old one but I figure that would be ok. They only had the one otherwise I would have changed all three but still plan to in the near future. The following web site shows what they look like. After installing I ran the lights for about 30 minutes and all was fine so hopefully that was the problem.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1...FRufnAodwk_l6w

Thanks to all that answered. This site is a real helpful tool with many years of experience to draw from.

Brad
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:19 PM   #14
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Certainly a breaker can get weak and fail. They typically fail from repeated shorts or overloads over time. Probably would be a good idea to replace the others. Good find Brad.
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:43 PM   #15
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Brad, I’m glad you got the circuit repaired. Thanks for the link, I’ll grab a set for my Coach, the next time I’m at Napa. Have a great trip!
Duanne
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