Entrance door problem - Page 2 - Luxury Coach Lifestyles
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:58 PM   #11
encantotom
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mine stuck really bad and in the hot arizona sun would make it so you couldnt open the door at all without a bucket of cold water like wally says.

for me the trick was this. after each filing, i painted over the filing area with touchup paint. then i could see where it was sticking by seeing where the paint wore off. you dont want to take off to much at a time so it looks goofy on the door, so slow and easy.

eventually and slowly and carefully i got it so it doesnt stick at all.

the problem with sticking for a long time without fixing it has been said a couple of times. the door will start delaminating and you will have a mess to deal with. ask a few of the folks here that theres is that way now.

later

tom
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:47 AM   #12
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Tom, you know I resemble that remark. Mine was that way when I bought it and it hasn't improved with age.
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:35 PM   #13
GORDON HUMMEL
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I have finally had the time to work on my door. I called Newell on thurs to get further info, but with the holiday etc I have not heard back
I am a fulltimer so I really did not want to remove the door. I removed the interior cover around the latches to study the construction.
The door perimeter frame structure is made up of 3 Z sections, top, bottom & latch side. The hinge side is a C channel with a wood insert. The exterior panel is attached to the perimeter frame with 3M HVB tape. Additional interior alum support pieces are added along with some wood blocks to support the locks. Some steel pieces are also added for additional support in the handle areas. This assy in now foamed and becomes quite strong.
I did notice tape was applied to the inside of the perimeter frame so that the foam would not stick to the frame & allow it to move.
The interior panel(s) still have me scratching my bald head. The first panel is riveted to the perimeter frame & the alum support pieces in the interior of the door. The next panel with the wallpaper on it is seamingly retained by the plastic edge pieces on the top & sides riveted to the first panel and by 3-4 rivets on the bottom that go thru the both the alum panels & a plastic trim piece. Additional retention is provided by the pull handles and other visible items.
To remove this panel the door would need to be removed in order to slide it out the bottom. All interior protruding hardware' interior door handle needs to be removed. Once the rivets at the bottom are removed the panel can be slid out the bottom. The stainless steel latch bracket is cut such that panel will slide through. Pretty slick! This then gives you access to remove all the rivets on the interior panel, and to work on the door. WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THESE 2 INTERIOR PANELS ARE GLUD TOGETHER.

After studying this for quite a while I gave up & broke the plastic trim pieces & removed the wallpapered panel, giving me access to remove the other panel.
Basically my exterior skin is being held on by the foam & the 4 exterior alum trim extrusions that screw into the interior alum framework. The perimeter tape is +/- 20% intact. The foam at the perimeter will not allow me to attach the perimeter to the exterior panel without quite a bit of force which will not contribute to a good bond. My solution is to remove 2-3" of foam at the perimeter which allows the 2 pieces to be joined easily. I'm using 3M 4955 tape & also running a bead of Sikaflex 252 on the interior just to be sure.
I'm doing this is small section & after I put the Sikaflex on, I put the interior panel on temperarly to make sure all the rivet holes line up.
Long process but I have not taken the door off YET.
I will have to take the door off to do the hinge side

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Old 09-08-2009, 11:50 PM   #14
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So, Gordon, this sounds like more than a one day project. What will you do for a door when you do take off THE door? Or will you be able to completely remove and replace the door in one day?
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:37 AM   #15
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i have wanted to replace the wallpaper on the inside of the door with vinyl. newell told me i had to take the door off, drill out the rivets on the bottom plastic trim. then the aluminum panel with the wallpaper on is glued, so you have to spray or pour adhesive releaser down the panek and use a small dowell to slide down in as the glue releases being careful to not bend the panel.

i have decided to faux paint the wallpaper instead.

good luck

tom in tokyo
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:56 PM   #16
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Tom,
We were able to remove the wallpaper throughout our Coach. After Elaine (chockwald's wife) pointed out that the laminate should be underneath the wallpaper we were able to slowly pull it off and then Tricia used Murphy's Oil Soap to clean the Glue residue and whatever was left of the wallpaper. This was a tedious project that is not completed as yet but we believe that it has been well woth it, thanks Elaine.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:18 PM   #17
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You had laminate under the wallpaper?
I wonder if my '93 has laminate also?
That opens up a few new possibilities.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:40 PM   #18
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Hi Forest.....In Steve's case, the wallpaper had been applied at a later date over existing laminate. Both Steve's coach and my coach had all "wood" laminate installed at the factory throughout the coach. Elaine had noticed in one area that there appeared to be laminate under the wallpaper. Since our coaches were so similar it was a safe assumption.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:45 PM   #19
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Forest,
Yep, there was a Laminate under the Wallpaper. I am not really sure when the Wallpaper was installed. I was told that Newell did a refurbish on the Coach at some time in the past but not sure as to the extent. With the quality of Newell's Construction I would think that covering the Bulkheads with a Laminate would be standard practice if for no other reason than simply to insure that they are sealed. Wallpaper would then have been installed afterwards during the construction process.
I would be very cautious about removing anything without doing some sampling or even better yet discuss it with Newell. In our case their records did not go back to 1982 and the Wallpaper was in poor condition anyway so................
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:15 PM   #20
GORDON HUMMEL
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Just wanted to post an update on my progress on the door repair. I guess if I had heard from Newell on the removal of the outer interior panel, I might have rethought my approach. I was able to save the bottom & hinge side plastic trim & lowe's had the same plastic that I destroyed for $6.
In the last 3 days I have fixed the bottom & the latch side. The top will be done tomorrow, & the hinge side Saturday, hopefully in one day.
Removing the original tape is quite a bit of work. I cut as much out as possible with the blade shown in the attached picture, and the remainder with what I think was a cutoff wheel, shown in the picture until it broke. It worked quite well, sometimes working both edges at the same time.

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