Entrance door problem - Page 3 - Luxury Coach Lifestyles
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:43 AM   #21
encantotom
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hi gordon, awesome job.

can you please take a picture of the entire door on the side that faces in so i can see the whole support structure?

this is different than what i had in my mind from what newell had told me.

the plastic trim is the stuff they use for melamine paneling, so i am glad you found it at lowes. home depot has it too.

so you took all the plastic trim off so you wouldnt have to take the door off?

i really want to recover the door panel rather than paint it but didnt want to take the door off.

steve, the rest of us do not have laminate under the wallpaper. what i was referring to was only the door panel and not the rest of the coach.

the wallpaper on mine was i think bonded before the wood was cut and then installed with the wood.

any bubbling you guys have in the wallpaper is where the wall plywood seams are and are from expansion contraction of the coach.

i stripped all the wallpaper off and it is a bear because it is bonded so well. i would not recommend anyone do it unless they are covereing with a very forgiving material afterwards because it will be very hard to get the wall smooth.

tom in malaysia
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:11 PM   #22
GORDON HUMMEL
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Tom
Yes, I took the plastic off so I could have access to the inner panel without removing the door. I did not know how to remove it prior to your explaination to use a dowel & wp remover. The adhesive appeared to be other than wp paste, but until your removal instruction were posted I was @ a complete loss. I knew there had to be a process, given the way Newells are built & with all the door problems, but again I could not figure it out!

Attached is a picture of the interior door framing. To be honest, the laayout does not make a lot of sense to me, but who am I to question. This framing does NOT seam to be attached to the outer skin as it has craft tape on as did the interior of the perimeter frame.

Finished the latch side yesterday, but with all the rain & high humidity I will wait to do the top.

I have been considering adding 2-4 veritcal tensioners. Going from the hinge side, I would replace the wood screw with a long machine screw going into a turnbuckle, then allthreat or cable & make a bracket the would rivet(structual) to the latch side. There is really nothing holding the perimeter @ a fixed dimention. My thought is as the exterior skin expands, the perimeter frame where it is attached to the outer skin moves to the rear of the coach & comes in contact with the catch side jam. When this edge becomes stuck & the door is opened, eventually the frame & exterior become seperated. In my case the edge of the perimeter frame moved out & caused the sticking. The paint on the exterior skin edge is still intact so it was not sticking.
This concept would not allow the door to expand as designed(?), but rather cause it to oil can. currently the 2 large vertical trim pieces that are glued to the exterior skin & screwed at the ends would have to be modified to accomondate the oilcanning.

Would like your thoughts on this and from anyone else for that matter

More to follow
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:30 PM   #23
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I don't think I've seen that many C-Clamps in once place in my entire life....LOL!
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:17 PM   #24
GORDON HUMMEL
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Ever since I started this project, I had the concern that the enviorment I was in was not the best suited for the products I was using. These are the best for this application, but with humidity etc, their performance by not meet expeditations.
As discussed previously, my problem is that the exterior skin seperated at the hing & moved rearward hitting the jam & then total failure as the door was used when sticking. I really wanted a mechanical coupling that would not allow this.
The attached picture is my solution, so far, to that problem. A 1/4" machine screw is used in place of a wood screw at the hinge. A coupling nut, all thread, fender washers & a nut complete the assembly. I've only installed one so far to validate my thoughts.
One turn on the nut & the 1/8" gap on the hinge side was gone. I closed the door & I think it was the first time in 18 months that the SS bracket that the latch mounts to, did not rub the jam. Only time will tell, but I think this might be the answer.
I will install 2 more above the lock as most of the problem has been from the latch up.
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Old 09-17-2009, 10:07 PM   #25
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Default Door finished- NEVER REMOVED

The removal of the door, always had me concerned. With the other 3 sides repaired, only the hinge side needed to be reattached. The 3 allthread parts I added moved the skin back to the hinge, but it needed to be sealed to the frame. you can see in the first picture, I attached an angle bracket, 4 of them to the inside of the outer skin with some HD tape. I then used silicone to fill the gap between the skin & the frame. Partially cured, I pulled the angle brackets in, & secured wwith a wood screw. After it dried, I used adhesive on the joint as a backup. All was fixed & no door removal.
With the inner interior panel attached, all that was left, was to install the interior wallpapered alum panel. A trip to Lowe's provided the plastic trim pieces. The first one's I got would accept .25 material, as the original was, but the long piece that you rivet through to attach it was to short. Back to lowe's & the have a different one that has a long enough long piece, but it only designed to accepts .90 material. My wallpapered panel is .122, but it will fit.
If you recall, Tom had indicated based on info from Newell, to use a dowel to pooch out the middle of this panel & slide it out the bottom after you remove the door.
I riveted the new plastic trim on all sides but the bottom. I then slid the panel in the hinge side plastic, 1/2" lower then it should be. Then with the help of a broom stick in the middle of the door, I was able to insert the latch side in the plastic trim in the area above the latch. I repeated the process below the latch. With a wooden block & hammer, I tapped the panel upward into the top plastic trim. No glue was used as the handles etc hold this panel firmly.
One last & important note.
If you want to remove the wallpapered panel with out removing the door, try this.
Break out the top plastic piece; $2.28 for 8'. Once removed, you can use the Newell process & install a dowel down the middle, & pour in the wallpaper remover. Once the adhesive releases, you should be able to slide this panel up & out. (do not have awning out)

Well thats it. Now I will have to wait till next summer to see if all works.
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Old 09-17-2009, 10:22 PM   #26
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So Gordon, are you taking orders for door repairs yet?
Great job! I'm hoping mine holds up. I do have some delamination on the outer skin but no problems with sticking yet.
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Old 09-18-2009, 03:38 PM   #27
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Forest,
I might suggest that a few rivets be added now before complete failure. The 2 outside trim pieces, the one above the outside handle, and the one @ the same level as the top lock, can be removed. At the edges, you can add rivets & you will never see them.
Similiar process on the bottom edge
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:09 AM   #28
Richard and Rhonda
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Gordon,

Just wondering how the High Bond Tape "I'm using 3M 4955 tape & also running a bead of Sikaflex 252 on the interior just to be sure." worked out in your door skin repair?

How hard was the tape to work with? If I understand your post correctly, you didn't have to remove the outer skin to reattach?

Is the tape "papered" on both sides? If it is, I was thinking of an application technique where you could put it in place, then carefully peel away the paper whilst keeping the alignment in order. Then do the other side and press the door against the frame.

Before I tackle the door, I am just trying to take advantage of your learning curve.
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:30 PM   #29
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Richard
So far it's been 2 years & all is staying in place. This summer we had about a month of 100+ days & the door facing west & not one issue.
The 4955 that I purchased only had paper on one side. As I recall after getting all the old tape out, I cut the 4955 into about 2' pieces, wedged the frame & skin apart to give me working room, put the 4955 on the outside skin & left the paper on until I was ready to clamp that section.

Also highly recomment rivets under the Newell trim. The inside is hidden by the rubber weatherstrip

Good luck
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