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Old 08-11-2011, 10:57 PM   #1
folivier
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Default Compartment door locks?

2 of my compartment doors won't lock. I have the cantilever bus type with the liftup locking paddle handles.
On these 2 when I lock them, if I pull up on the handle they will open. Comparing them with the others it looks like the L-piece that moves down when lifting the handle has too much space (not close enough to) the piece on the key lock that turns to prevent it from opening.
Anyone know if these are adjustable? Or where I can buy a longer piece for the lock?
Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:41 PM   #2
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Sorry I can't help much just wanted to say hi.
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:45 PM   #3
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Hi!
I thought I was blacklisted or something. I guess it's too hot everywhere for people to think. I know it is here, I spend a lot of time inside.
Hey, today is Cindy's last day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't have anything planned for this year (except 2 weeks diving in Bonaire in October), may take a lil' coach trip when it cools off.
But next year we plan to leave around March for our "travels".
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:51 PM   #4
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congrats to Cindy! that would be pretty darn great. I say that you serve her breakfast in bed tomorrow just because (or maybe a muffin and coffee).
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Steve & Tricia
1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 08-12-2011, 05:16 PM   #5
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Our Locks are different (we have the earlier style that rotates) so it is hard to give you advice but... I have been able to take the assembly apart, locate the issue, then clean and lubricate the locks to work. I have also been able to make minor repairs to our locks wit a little light welding, good luck...
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2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:44 PM   #6
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Forrest,

Would you post some pictures of the lock problem?
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:36 PM   #7
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Pulled one of the locks, doesn't seem to be any way to adjust it. Looks like the easiest fix will be to make longer cables.
I'll try and get some pictures, after I cool off a bit!
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:29 PM   #8
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You can see the clearance between plunger and latch is too great. The cables attach where the push caps are sitting on the arms. I don't see how it can be adjusted. I guess if I could find a shim to add to the bottom of the plunger it might work properly. Or I might just make longer cables. Cabelas or Academy should have fishing leader & crimps that might work.

I've never locked the compartments before, but since we're planning to leave next spring and will store the coach when we fly home occasionally I'd better get them all working.
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Old 08-13-2011, 12:43 AM   #9
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Forrest,

There is a high probability that I am totally misunderstanding what you are saying. After all I am often wrong, but seldom in doubt.

Those cables you are talking about actuate the latches at the sides of the door. If they were too long you couldn't open the door. What locks the door is the elongated piece on the back side of the lock cylinder. Turn your key in the lock of one door that will lock and watch what it does on the backside. Now turn the lock on one of the doors that won't lock. I had a similar problem and the elongated piece was not installed in the correct orientation. The elongated piece should rotate and block the device below it from moving.

Call me if that doesn't make sense 817 223 2056
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Old 08-13-2011, 01:48 AM   #10
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Yep, that's what happens. When the pieces rotates (from the key turning) it is supposed to block the plunger/device from moving. But on 2 of the doors the gap is too much and when you pull up on the handle it moves enough to open the latches.
On the other doors the plunger is almost touching the rotating piece when it is locked and the handle can't be pulled up.
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2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:41 AM   #11
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If it were me, I would make a trip to Lowes with the part in hand. Find some piece of hardware that is close enough to the rotating lock, and with drill bits and file in hand, make one that is slightly longer.

I am afraid that if you make the cables longer then the handle will not open the door.
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Old 08-13-2011, 01:46 PM   #12
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If I am understanding the picture and your description;
The oval shaped part that it held in place by the screw rotates by the key, the part then restricts the movement of the plunger when the paddle is operated. If so it sounds like you simply need to find a way to adjust it or build a new one a little longer. Can you create a slot where the part attaches so that the piece would have an adjustment? I would most likely just fire up my MIG welder and add a little metal to the end of the part as an extension.
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Steve & Tricia
1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:30 AM   #13
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Hi Forest,
It appears to me that what you have should work...I have had mine apart . It can be very confusing to reassemble the locking cam . The spindle that it rotates on must be attached to the lock mechanism and "clocked" properly. The locking cam should rotate freely for 90 degrees so that the electric actuator can move it. The lock cylinder must then be able to move the locking cam to allow the key to unlock it. There is an insert in the lock cylinder that limits movement of the lock cylinder. If yours has been apart and the lock cylinder and the spindle are not in sync it may not allow positive movement of the locking cam when installed on the door. If you really need a longer locking cam I may have a couple. Post the lenght of yours and I will compare to mine and send you longer ones if I have them. You could also get them from a locksmith.
Also...I dont think longer cables are the answer. If everything else is in order I would try bending the "tab" that hits the locking cam (when locked) when you pull the handle thereby causing the tab to be closer to the locking cam.
Another thing....If you have abandoned the electric acutators the locking cam may be floating loose enough to rotate enough to allow the latch to open. If that is the case re-attache the actuators to keep the locking cam from moving freely or mechanically attach the cam to the spindle by using a lock washer under the screw or apply a dab of JB weld into the hole of the cam after you are sure you have it oriented properly.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:05 PM   #14
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After looking at the other locks, it seems that some of had the plunger bent enough to lock properly. So I took the easy way out and bent these 2.
I don't use the electric locks (not all of them work) because I keep the driver side commpartments locked.
Thanks for yall help!
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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
2013 RZR 570LE

"You don't have a soul. You are a soul, you have a body." C.S.Lewis


https://www.luxurycoachlifestyle.com/...php?albumid=14
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