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Old 09-03-2012, 06:59 PM   #1
Twins
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Default how to properly block a newell coach

For someone like me who has yet to get under our Newell coach although I know I must at some point.

Maybe someone could give me some pointers on the correct and safe way to block our Newell and otherwise prepare it and myself to go under so I can live to enjoy

my coach?


I've got some railroad ties, is that a good start? Where should they be placed?


Other thoughts and suggestions?
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:10 PM   #2
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Twins,

I am not familiar with a 1977 Newell Classic. I have a 1999 Newell which has skid plates that are welded to the frame. There are 2 skid plates in the rear and 2 skid plates welded in the front. I have some oak blocks 6" x 6" x 24" long. I use a 20 Ton bottle jack under one skid plate and put the oak blocks stacked on the flat side under the other skid plate. Then I use a couple of 2" x 6" x 12" to shim it up a little so I have plenty of room underneath. You may also find it helpful to put a 2" x 6" under the bottle jack. Block the front and the rear of the coach.


Call Newell Coach 1-888-963-9355 and verify that this is what should be done to block a 1977 Newell. All Newells are different so you need to call them and find out exactly what you need to do to be safe.

NEVER GET UNDER A COACH UNLESS IT IS PROPERLY BLOCKED. Putting blocks under the axles will not be the right thing to do. You have to block the frame not the axles.

BE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND THIS BEFORE YOU GET UNDER THAT COACH!

It is a good idea to release all of the air from the air system after you block the coach just to make sure there is no more room for it to go down. If there is anything you don't understand please ask for help from someone who is familiar with Newells.

Sorry to sound paranoid about this, but I had a friend who died when his coach fell on him.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:58 PM   #3
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I can get 18.5" of clearance with my air leveling system which gives me plenty of room to glide around underneath on my creeper.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:00 PM   #4
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Never use concrete blocks, or masonry, as they can crack or crumble.
Block it up using the jack points on the newell, or drive up on ramps, or over a pit.

make sure the footprint of the blocking is large enough. a newell is heavy enough to drive a 20 ton jack into asphalt or dirt, thereby lowering the coach.
Be aware of how low the newell can go or how far it can fall.

I drove mine up on wooden ramps. Even if the bags are fully deflated, there is still room for me under there.
railroad ties are good, as long as they are not cracked. Wood can still split and fail, and a newell has the weight to do it.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:04 PM   #5
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Forgot to mention that the coach should NEVER be on dirt or grass using jack stands. IMHO Bottom line here is that good old strong concrete is the best surface to be upon before safely lifting your coach to work underneath it. And...this all begs the question that a good, well designed, to code pit may be the ultimate safe answer.

Joseph
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:56 PM   #6
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I made my ramps out of plywood. They are solid heavy and will not split.I ripped the plywood into 12" wide pieces and started with a 4 ft. piece and stepping each one back a few inches and cut a 45% angle on each. I ended up with about an 18" top and 12" high. Each piece was glued and screwed together.I made four when I was working on our newell. Just my way of doing it,but I felt safe using them.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:40 AM   #7
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I think we have two ways of doing it here. Tuga is mentioning using the plates that are obviously designed into the newer Newell frame structurer and I'm not sure what year they started this, I hope someone chimes in to share this info. The rest of you guys are saying to go with the wedged wood block system that acts as ramps like you would use on a car or pickup but made out of a ply or solid dense wood material.

My thinking is that Tuga's suggestion is probably the ultimate way to go if your Newell has a solid flat area to set it down on the solid blocks, and if you need the tires off the ground. And I would assume you need multiple hydraulic jacks to lift one end at a time.

Now, the pit is a great idea for getting under to do most maintenance but if you need the four wheels off the ground that's out. I've seen the nice larger truck jacks that lift each corner but its one hell of an investment.


Ken
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