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Old 08-07-2011, 02:23 PM   #21
RussWhite
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Tuga,

You proabaly are clear on how your charger functions, but I'd like to clarify a few suggestion you made. The power supplied to a bank of batteries to charge them is measured in amp-hours. The process of charging is necessary to replace amp-hours used from the batteries when not connected to an AC source, either the pedestal or your generator. The only other need is the very small amount to replace internal loses within the batteries and maintain the float voltage. The paramaters you are suggesting to change determine the MAXIMUM current that will be delivered to charge the batteries. This means that if you have been dry camping and your batteries are in need of charging the time it will take will be very long due to a very low charging rate. Conversely if you have not been dry camping and your batteries are charged ( like almost everyone plugged in ) they will not be using any signifcant current regardless of the MAXMUM setting on the inverter. Once the charger reaches third stage ( float ) a bulk charge that could be affected by the settihg of the maxium charge amps paramater will not be initiated except by a power interruption. This all assumes a healthy battery bank. A bank with bad cells might not reach full charge normally and could just waste charing current as it is turned into heat in the bad battery bank. Whith my battereis full charged ( as they are almost all the time ) changing the maximum charing amps paramater makes no difference what so ever on my power consumed. Russ
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:36 PM   #22
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Nando,

Watch your amp meters on the panel above the driver's seat. When you are approaching 40 amps on each leg it is time to turn something off.
I was disappointed with my coach #530 when I did not have meters to observe amps used in each leg of the power system. Mine was dumbed down to just idiot lights that are on when power is on. I still remember the fist Newell I ever saw year and years ago and how impreseed I was with all the meters in the electrical controls panel. I wonder if the meters have come back in later coaches. I chose to install a power management system to provide some protection and that included a remote display panel that shows amps, volts, and frequency for shore power. The idiot lights have black tape over them
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:02 PM   #23
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Russ,
"No two Newells are the same". What you have in your coach was decided on by the original owner and not Newell unless yours was one of the few show coaches. Ours were built at the same time & mine has the amp and voltage meters for each leg and the idiot lights. If you got the original build sheet with your coach it is very informative in seeing the many choices & decisions they had to make. These things are so custom that the chance of two owners making exactly the same choices is probably in the one in a million range. One thing about buying used is you don't get EVERYTHING you want--there are things in mine I would have ordered differently.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:24 PM   #24
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Hello Russ,

My coach has 1 single unit (for the front) and a double unit (for the center and back).
Each leg of the pole is 120 -125 volts and 50 amps.
I have the gages above the driver’s seat that I can monitor the incoming volts and amps usage.
With the single and double unit running, line #1 reads 28-30 amps used and line #2 reads between 16-18 amps used. Voltage on both lines reads 120-125. I understand the comments regarding the inverters and since I am able to monitor the incoming and usage, it is not a problem. Also, I never have a problem while on gen.

Thanks again for you help,
Nando

PS. just today I added another battle to the list when I noticed the steering gearbox leaking. Have gotten so far as to determine that it is a TRW TSA 85 now I have to crawl and wedge myself up there to see the last 3 remaining numbers to identify the correct part. At least I am not getting bored, always something
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:03 PM   #25
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Nando,

Just a friendly reminder, whenever you crawl under your coach be sure to block the chassis up with wooden blocks or steel jack stands (20 ton) or use a 20 Ton bottle jack to jack up the frame. If an air bag blows or an air line burst you could be killed instantly.

I knew a fellow who lost his life like that.

Please take the proper precautions to protect yourself. If you are unsure of where to place the blocks call Newell and they will tell you.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:46 PM   #26
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Tuga Thanks for the heads up.

Nando
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:01 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Lewis and Clark View Post
The only issue I have is when the single unit and double unit is running for an extended period of time (2 to 3 hours) the breaker at the pole trips and is every hot. I switched poles but the same outcome. When the single unit and the low side of the double unit are running it will not trip the breaker.
The temp. is 96F outside and I am in the direct sun with no shade if that has anything to do with it.
The double unit it pulling 28 - 30 amps. and the single is pulling 16 - 17 amps.
Any thoughts?

Regards,
Nando
Then later you say "I have the gages above the driver’s seat that I can monitor the incoming volts and amps usage.
With the single and double unit running, line #1 reads 28-30 amps used and line #2 reads between 16-18 amps used. Voltage on both lines reads 120-125."

This is very puzzling and I am not sure what is going on. A good 50 amp breaker should carry continously most of its rating. Even at a very low 80% that is 40 amps all day long. So why does your breaker trip if you are actually below that amount. If I actually had the same situation as you are describing and I was sure of my current load I would opt to have a new double pole breaker installed. Most campground managers are willing to do this if you are in good standing. I did once have a problem and requested the change and got a less than enthusiastic response that he did not think it could be the breaker. After changing everything was back to normal and I even got an apology. Yes, I read where you tried another pedestal, but it is not for sure that breaker was in good repair either.

Tuga beat me to the advice for supporting the coach. It's a risk not worth taking.
Keep us posted.

Russ
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:02 AM   #28
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Russ, thanks for the response. I agree with your suggestion of changing the breakers. I just wanted to eliminate any unknown to me potential issues.
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Old 08-10-2011, 01:58 AM   #29
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circuit breakers can get weak....or break and cause arcing to happen inside which could trip when under heavy load.

where it is most common is if they are

1. used as a switch....they are not designed for that. in a pedestal at an rv park they are turned on and off constantly.

2. overheated by drawing right at capacity. our big rigs can push these things to the max. i bet your coach inside has a 60 or 70 amp breaker and the pedestal has a 50 amp.

as we all know, our house breakers tend to last forever, but generally they are not used as switches and are never under near to capacity loads.

my two cents worth and i am sticking to it.

btw, i recently replaced my swimming pool 220v breakers that had gone bad.

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Old 08-11-2011, 10:01 PM   #30
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You might want to check both the connection at the pole and the innards of your 50 amp plug I had the same thing happen only to discover I had corrosion within the plug and although the coach was pulling less than 50, the added resistance at the plug was driving the breaker at the pole into overload.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:45 AM   #31
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Richard, Thanks for the suggestion.

Nando
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Once again, Thanks Russ. Checked with Newell already and they have no more boards. Their solution was for me to install roof mounted units.
Therefore, the only solution is to repair the one I have and keep looking for another board to have repaired and keep as a spare.
As of 11/15/2011 Newell has a limited supply of rebuilt boards for sale. The single control units are $159 plus a $100 core deposit, while the dual compressor control units sell for $189 plus a $100 core deposit. We are temporaily asking you to limit your orders with no core, to one board, so that toghether we can help those whose systems are inoperative. If you have any spare boards needing rebuilt, please contact Creslie or John to make arrangements.

The rebuilt boards come with a limited one year vendor warranty, and have been modified to better handle current flow.

We hope to have 'new' boards available soon, and will keep you posted.

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Old 11-15-2011, 10:40 PM   #33
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John, are yall rebuilding the boards for the old Dometic basement units?
I have 3 old boards that I recently replaced and have no use for them.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:07 PM   #34
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Forest,

If Newell, doesn't want them, I would like to have them.
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