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Old 02-05-2012, 12:38 AM   #1
encantotom
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Default leveling valve cleanup

i took all 6 rear manifold leveling solenoids off toady. i cleaned up the manifold, cleaned each valve, greased up and put new inner and outer o rings on and re-installed them.

hey, and they didnt even leak afterwards.

i need to try the front ones, but didnt have time today.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:11 AM   #2
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I did the same thing but did the front and the back. I have been having the front sit down for about the last 6 months and I have just decided that I want it fixed. Changing the O rings didn't help with the air leaks.

After doing all of the usual soapy water spraying and not finding any air leaks I have resigned myself to the fact that I need to install 2 new leveling valves in the front manifold. Question is: Do I replace the DOWN solenoids (driver side and passenger side) or do I replace the UP solenoids.

Since the coach leaks down in the front completely in 12 hours, my guess is to do the DOWN solenoids.

What does the brain trust think on this matter?
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:14 AM   #3
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Tuga,

I was under the impression that the elastic material of the valve seat was what failed. I think Richard has some great posts regarding testing and how he learned to replace the seat and stop the leaking. Fortunately I have not had to deal with leaks at the manifold so far.
I think it is reasonable to start with the DOWN solenoids. If the UP leaked you would have at least the pressure of your auxiliary air in the bags. If the TRAVEL leaked the Height Valve should shutoff and stop flow when the coach reached travel position and not go all the way down.
I suspect we all may have slightly different valves that add to the confusion. I have attached a few images to get a discussion going. One shows a spare 6 valve manifold I picked up from eBay for a good price thinking it would be very similar to mine. The schematic was posted on the forum some time ago and I just added some arrows to remind me which way the air may flow. Good luck.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:06 AM   #4
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I have a similar manifold I bought. HWH said those are functionally equivalent solenoids. They draw a little more current but have everything else the same. They only used them for a year or two but they are fine to use.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussWhite View Post
Tuga,

I was under the impression that the elastic material of the valve seat was what failed. I think Richard has some great posts regarding testing and how he learned to replace the seat and stop the leaking. Fortunately I have not had to deal with leaks at the manifold so far.
I think it is reasonable to start with the DOWN solenoids. If the UP leaked you would have at least the pressure of your auxiliary air in the bags. If the TRAVEL leaked the Height Valve should shutoff and stop flow when the coach reached travel position and not go all the way down.
I suspect we all may have slightly different valves that add to the confusion. I have attached a few images to get a discussion going. One shows a spare 6 valve manifold I picked up from eBay for a good price thinking it would be very similar to mine. The schematic was posted on the forum some time ago and I just added some arrows to remind me which way the air may flow. Good luck.
Russ,

Thanks for posting the pictures and a good explanation of how each solenoid works.

I am excited and looking forward to changing the DOWN solenoids to see if that fixes the problem (I think it will).
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:40 AM   #6
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This has me thinking on how to tell if up or down solenoids are leaking. If down solenoids, then you could put soapy water on the open holes on back of the manifold. If the up solenoids, you could bleed the coach air pressure down, unscrew the air supply line to manifold and plug the manifold. If the ups are leaking then this would keep the air in manifold.
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:39 AM   #7
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richard, if it was a leak that was sagging over a day or so, do you think you would see bubbles on the back of the manifold? i'm scratching my head...

i have the drivers side drooping over a day or so and i have not been able to detect any leaks anywhere on it...

but....if it was the up and it was bleeding back over to the coach air, and my brake air is leaking slowly (still working on it), then the brakes would bleed the coach air down and the air from the up solenoids leaking through the seal would just leak out as the coach air went down...

i think i will just swap out the up rear solenoid and see what it does.... im in over my head here....
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:24 PM   #8
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Well we changed the front 2 down solenoids today so we'll see if that did it tomorrow morning!

We also changed one of the petcocks on the brake air tanks in the front. Next we fixed a coupling that was leaking and replaced it. Then we found the most unusual air leak I have ever seen. On the s.s. braided hose that runs from the S60 air compressor to spin on air filter we found a leak right in the middle of the hose. It was a straight section of hose that had the air leak. Damnest thing I have ever seen.

When looking for air leaks, its not always at the fittings.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:40 AM   #9
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I also had to replace the s.s. hose on my 96 and it was leaking about a foot from where it ties into the dryer. Also check the 3/4 line that feed the air bags. This can cause the drop of the conner.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:19 PM   #10
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Ron,

Where did you buy the S.S. hose? From Detroit Diesel or just from a local shop that makes s.s. hoses to order.

Also, are there check valves that prevent all of the air in the system from being exhausted when you disconnect the S.S. braided hose?
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:43 PM   #11
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Sean,

I had the hose made at a local hydraulic shop. Just take if off and they can make a replacement. I always just bleed all the air out of the system before I start. They are check valves for the two brake tanks. Just bleed the supply tank.


Tuga,

How did the solenoids replacement work?
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #12
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My drivers side rear had been going down over a day or so. so this thread inspired me to try replacing a solenoid. Following everyones logic I changed just the rear UP solenoid. that was Sunday afternoon and quite a few hours later, it is looking like it is staying up. Another day or so will tell for sure.

Tuga, did yours stay up?
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:00 PM   #13
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Jack, yes it stayed up and I changed both DOWN solenoids in the front. Go figure!
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:55 PM   #14
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Well another day another air leak or maybe the same air leak!

This morning my coach was down in front! I called Newell and Creslie told me that changing the down solenoids almost always corrects the problem. He suggested checking where the exhaust air comes out of the manifold for an air leak. I asked him if it could be the UP solenoid and he said that usually when the UP fails you can not raise the coach at that point. Looks like Tom's air leak was fixed by changing the UP solenoid; so I guess my next step will be to order 2 more solenoids and change the UP solenoids.

I need to add something here: my air supply drains down completely to zero overnight. Is there a check valve that prevents the air from the HWH manifold from leaking down when the supply air leaks down?

Maybe I have 2 problems: one was the down solenoids and the second one was somewhere in the air supply.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:26 PM   #15
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Tuga,

Here is a link to a thread by Richard and Rhonda that discusses why these valves leak and how to fix them without the cost of replacing the entire solenoid and valve operator. It makes a lot of sense. Maybe you would want to use his suggestions and repair the valve seats you remove and have them ready as spares for the next leak.

http://newellclassic.com/forum/showt...ght=valve+seat

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Old 04-16-2012, 09:59 PM   #16
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Thanks Russ, I spoke to Richard the other day and I am planning to send him my valves to be reconditioned.

This may be a silly question but: Are the DOWN solenoids in the middle of the manifold?
Are the UP solenoids on the left of the manifold?
Are the TRAVEL solenoids on the right of the manifold?
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:05 PM   #17
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Default Speed controller air leak

I ordered a new speed controller from Newell this morning because mine was leaking air. For those of you who don't know what a speed controller is it is a brass adjustable valve that controls the speed that opens/closes your sewer dump valve. Hopefully fixing this leak and replacing the s.s. braided air hose will take care of my leaks for a while.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:31 PM   #18
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This may be a silly question but: Are the DOWN solenoids in the middle of the manifold?
Are the UP solenoids on the left of the manifold?
Are the TRAVEL solenoids on the right of the manifold?

Tuga,

Please see the images included with post #3 of this thread. It shows the location of the solenoids on my rear six pack.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:31 PM   #19
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If you are "leaking" air out of the speed control muffler, I am almost totally positive that you will have the same issue when you replace it. Usually it means that air is leaking around the seals on the air cylinder for the air operated sewer valve from Dupree that it is controlling. You will have two of them. One for up and down of the cylinder. Since, they are only five bucks so it is easy to try and I look forward to you telling me I was wrong.

Fortunately you can get cylinder rebuild kits for the cylinders (I and quite a few others have done it). From Dupree Products

I had the same thing on the air slide cylinder for the bay freezer/fridge and i rebuilt the cylinder with a seal kit from SMC.

I raised my rig up today and leveled it and then turned off the HWH System.

I measured the height at all four corners and will keep measuring over the next couple of days to see if mine is fixed or not.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:32 PM   #20
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tuga, on mine the UP is on the left, DOWN in the middle and TRAVEL on the right. drivers side on the top and passenger on the bottom.

tom
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