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Old 08-26-2013, 02:05 AM   #21
Neweller
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This is how we do it! Great work Keith as you are on the ball as usual. Now it will be interesting having aluminum down there vs. steel. I guess with the sealing strip things should be good eh'. What kind and how thick of sealing strip material are you going to be using? How do you think stainless would perform? Probably not worth the price.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:30 AM   #22
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It has a coating of por15 on the steel already, the sealing strip I have is the same as what is used for metal roofing, around 1/4 thick but will squish down. its like a heavy gutter seal comes in a roll, shouldn't have anymore rust issues, and no more wood to trap moisture. I think ill put my tanks on some uhmw strips.
Stainless would be nice but I think the aluminum will be more than adequate, the thin steel and wood they had lasted 35 years.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:45 AM   #23
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Stainless would be nice but I think the aluminum will be more than adequate, the thin steel and wood they had lasted 35 years.[/QUOTE]

You're right on that. I always wonder why Newell never opted for stainless tubing and structure like Wanderlodge had, at least on the later units that I'm aware of. The thing with the wood never made sense to me at all, I have seen many coaches with it and many with rust. I always assumed that the wood was put in place as a cheap easy fix vs. replacing the steel but I have seen it on later coaches too....
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:14 PM   #24
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Keith,

Your a makeover animal! She's looking good! Keep up the hard work Keith your an inspiration to all!
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:30 PM   #25
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Keith,

Your a makeover animal! She's looking good! Keep up the hard work Keith your an inspiration to all!
I would be interested in what the cost would be for the full 'Keith' make-over. Pretty sure it would be less than the cost of a new 'cookie cutter' motorhome that will lose a substantial percentage of the purchase price when it's driven off the lot. Newell's are built for a million plus miles, the cookie cutters are an exception if they make a hundred thousand. (and God forgive if you get into an accident)
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:25 PM   #26
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Jon, I agree with you totally on everything you have stated about the quality differences of the cookie cutter vs. Newell.

Hey if Keith wanted to, he could actually be the guy that built a new retro-designed replacement coach like a classic Newell from the ground up with all the latest technology rolled into one. He's just another like L.K. Newell in the making. There would be bus nuts, Wanderlodge, Barth, and Newell owners alike jumping on board for one. I'm actually pretty serious when I say this, because I know of a few and some have opted for rigs like class 5 and 7 coach builds. Right now things are just a hobby but professional for him. Now, I was just sharing what I was just day dreaming with you all...
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:12 AM   #27
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Well we got to the bottom of the major rust issues in the plumbing bay. The black tank was corroded and was leaking. So we put a new bottom in it and a couple of patches where it needed. the original tank was 1/8 aluminum and we put 3/16 bottom and also cut off the 3'' threaded fittings and replaced them with aluminum pipe. Now our connections will have a rubber coupling from the tank to the toilet and the discharge valves, I think this will be and improvement over the rigid threads that were also in bad shape. Were all pressure tested and will be installing it tomorrow. The green sheet is aluminum, we put a coat of sealer on it and gave it a coat of some real nice gray endura paint, the green is the sealer/primer. It will be going into the floor of the plumbing bay.
The storage bay is going to get some nice automotive carpet and will be sealed from the plumbing bay. We didnt feel paint was needed on the floor of it.
BTW I realize I highjacked my own post here, not sure if its fixable or not and apologize for that. I guess it should have been called plumbing bay rust restoration, or something along those lines.
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:41 PM   #28
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Here is a couple of before and after pics of my plumbing bay, everything is solid and works well, no more leaks. I still have to polish the tanks a bit more but its very usable, and get some new sil plates bent. just put another 1200 miles on, half was in the mountains. She tends to warm up some on the steep grades but we need to clean the rad.
The hot water is too hot from the heat exchanger waterheater, has anyone added a mixing valve, or a cross over pipe to mix cold with the hot? I am surprised it doesnt have something, probably on the later models. Its fine on 110v it has a thermostat. I think I will try a crossover pipe with a valve. A thermostat controlled valve would be the answer
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:46 AM   #29
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Great job Keith! I see you put the tanks up on bases which should be a whole lot better than laying completely on wood which seems to be in most cases. It's amazing to this day that there are many improvements that can still be done to upgrade these classics as well as even the later coaches if not even the new ones.

I was just thinking about the cross-over tube and I did something like that on one of my coaches but don't believe it was done by the Newell factory but by someone that had redone the bay. Maybe someone that has a later coach can chime in on what they may have in the way of a thermostat.......
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:29 PM   #30
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I'm not as knowledgeable as you fellows but my coach has a thermostat on the shower knob which can be turned until you find the temp you prefer!
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:01 AM   #31
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Not sure if these are the same as you have Larry but I am going to order one of these thermostatic mixing valves for my coach, http://www.wattsindustries.com/image...xingValves.pdf
This way the hot water can be set quite high, or in my case about 190 deg with the heat exchanger and 140 deg with 110v it will automatically mix with cold to give the desired output temp. thus having more hot water for showering etc. No electricity needed works on temp. similar to a thermostat in an engine.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:38 AM   #32
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I have one very similar to the one shown by "Bath Manufacturer". It has always worked very well.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:34 PM   #33
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One of those would be the answer, on my coach it would be tricky venting the lp. I will use the old one for now, here is a couple of pics of the bay floor, wood on steel is how it was built, I am going to add some more crossmembers to take the sag out of the floor and put aluminum with no wood. The old wood was removed with a shovel and a shopvac...
Keith: You are probably too far along now but I rebuilt my water bay using WEST epoxy coated plywood for the flooring. The sheet was cut to size and any holes cut before epoxying the thing with three coats of epoxy. I left in place the existing steel sheet that had multiple cut holes and corrosion holes. I sprayed all that metal with used engine oil to rust-proof it and then put sheet galvanized steel laid over that before the ply went on. I also built an epoxy coated/lined waste tank to replace the 1/4" steel original tank that leaked in hidden places which is one reason the original uncoated floor went. The nice thing about the coated ply floor is that it kept all the dimensions close to original while gaining protection from any "loose water". I also put an epoxy coated lip around the edge of the floor to keep any water from trickling over the edges rather than draining at intended spots.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:37 PM   #34
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Hi Jon, Yes my floor is pretty much finished other than new sil plates and automitive carpet in the storage bay, I wanted to get rid of any wood all together, and the main structure (1-1/2 tubing was starting to sag), I also added the 1-1/2 and 1x1 tubing along the edge under the sils to add alot more strength to the sides, all there was there was a small piece of 1/8 steel bent in a C shape with the aluminum skin riveted to it, This also having somewhere to tie in my new cross members, any side impact here will be the pity of anything that runs into it. All the steel got coated with por15. My waste tank is 1/8 aluminum, probably would have been easier to build new but time and materials were the issue, I put a whole new bottom in it and some side pieces with 3/16, and all new fittings, ( got rid of the the threaded and went with pipe for rubber couplers). This way there is room for any movement. Newell had the tanks sitting on wood bases that were rotten also, so I built some out of aluminum tubing, then put a strip of rubber weatherstrip between the tank and the base. The floor is 3/16 aluminum painted with endura and installed with metal roof sealant, sikaflex and 3/16 stainless rivets. I had no issues with dimensions, I put new holes in where the new plumbing had to go.
I like the idea of the epoxy coated tank, that would definately help preserve the inside of the tank, I do plan on doing that. these tanks are easy enough to pull in an out. What did you make your new tank out of? I think the tank leakage is the culprit in alot of these older Newells rust issues, the rest of the coach is pretty good other than the battery bays that need some attention. Did your 77 have the heat exchanger water heater? was there some kind of mixing valve in it?
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87 40' Newell Coach 475hp 8V92 DD(sold)
22' 350hp Jet Riverboat
79 Ford F250 4x4
Many others to list
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