Battery merge solenoid - Luxury Coach Lifestyles
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:21 PM   #1
rheavn
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Default Battery merge solenoid

A while back some one posted about a better quality "battery merge solenoid" that should last longer than the one year that Newell advises with the Cole Hearse 24106. I can't find the post. Any one else remember?
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:58 PM   #2
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i remember it but couldnt find it either.

tom
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:56 PM   #3
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NEW SOLENOID AMETEK 15-132 SAS4202 for Prestolite Motors
eBay My World: 4vette( 258)
I recommend this person she was very prompt in shipping and I bought 4 from her and have installed 2 with 2 spares. They are listed on Ebay now.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:12 PM   #4
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The Ametek model suggested is rated 100 amps continuous with copper contacts, and the Cole Hearse 24106 is rated 85 amps continuous with copper contacts.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:37 PM   #5
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You can go to this site http://texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp and it has a good discription of all the solenoids. I have email Evette to find out which she has and will post when she answer.

15-133
SAS-4202
Continuous Duty Rating 200 Amp
SAS4202 / 15-108

15-132
SAS-4201
Continuous Duty Rating 100 Amp
Prestolite SAS4201
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:46 PM   #6
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Thanks Ron,
I'm trying to evaluate whether replacing with the 15-133/200 amp solenoid for a few bucks more would be money well spent. Opinions....................
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:45 AM   #7
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Is there a potential problem with the battery merge solenoid? As far as I know I still have the "original" in my 94 and it appears to be working properly!
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:58 AM   #8
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they just wear out. if they do, then you could have problems. newell suggests changing every year, but on mine so far i changed it and kept a spare.

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Old 11-28-2011, 10:12 AM   #9
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I bought my '99 in Phoneix from a previous owner than didn't even drive it. Many questions went unanswered, so I stopped at the factorty on the way east. I had them do a walk through with me just as if they were selling me the coach. Answered all my questions and I learned a bunch.
When we got to the electrical panel with the merge solenoid he looked at it and said it looked original and then quipped, "bet it doesn't work". He was right! I really find very few occasions when I need to have it in use so I am thinking I will get several years of service before it needs replacing.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:05 PM   #10
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After listening to your opinions & reading about both the Cole Hersee & Ametek solenoids I decided to just replace with the Cole Hersee and carry a spare. Even Ametek advises replacing their solenoid annually.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:03 AM   #11
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Based on previous information on this forum, I was under the impression that the merge solonoid was activated when the engine key was in the on position.
I also replaced mine some years ago based on info from this board & also carry a spare.

Tom
On your pictures of the rear elcetrical panel(s), I see a blue heatsink with battery cables attached. Is that a battery isolator ?
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:51 AM   #12
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Recoginizing there are many differences between individual Newells all I can add is my merge solenoid does not energize with the ignition key.
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:15 PM   #13
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Russ
I suspect Newell changed the merge solonoid usage somewhere between 1995 & 1999. Given there were many failures & with a MTBF < a year, a fix was required.

How do your house batteries get charged from the engine? Do you have a battery isolator?
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:26 PM   #14
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Yes, the battery isolator input is from the alternator output, and its outputs are separate and one to the chassis batteries and the other to the coach batteries. Simple and seemingly bullet proof.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:31 PM   #15
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hi gordon, yea that is a batter isolater.

tom
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:49 AM   #16
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On my coach: When plugged in to shore power I leave the battery merge switch on. The shore power only charges the house batteries I have confirmed this by checking the voltage with a meter, when I plug in only the house batteries show a charge taking place. I find this also keeps both sets of batteries at the same level which is useful for boondocking when I can also merge the batteries for double the usable capacity but if this is done one must also make sure they have the ability to fully recharge both house and chassis batteries. This could be taken into consideration when outfitting solar panels for dry camping (bondocking).
I think that using the merge switch in this manner could make it last longer not sure but years ago I was told by an industrial electrician that things with electrical contacts are best left on than switching on and off. This was in reference to a large boring mill where I would have problems with the starting relays. After leaving the main power on I never had a problem again.
I was reminded about light bulbs, when do they blow out usually when they are turned on. The stress of on and off on the element weakens it to the point of failure.

You could check the voltage of your batteries before plugging in to confirm if this is the same on your coach.
Thats what I do with my rig.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:22 AM   #17
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gordon, it is a surepower 2402 battery isolator

tom
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:11 AM   #18
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My battery merge solenoid feels warm to the touch. Does that mean that it is working? It would seem that if it is warm there is electricity flowing thru it. In the 6 years that I have owned the coach, I have never changed it.

I keep it in the up (on) position while plugged into shorepower. Actually, I keep it on all of the time; except when I am dry camping then I turn it off (middle) position. I do this in order to keep from running down the engine batteries. If I understand the way it is supposed to work: when dry camping and the batt merge OFF you are running appliances off of the house batteries (6) and not drawing any juice from the engine batteries (2). This is done so you can start the engine and use the alternator to charge up the house batteries enough to start the generator. Am I understanding this correctly?
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:23 AM   #19
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Hi Tuga,

No, that does not mean for sure your merge solenoid is working. What it means is that the coil portion is drawing current and you feel the result of that with the warmth. The coil ( solenoid ) makes a magnetic field that pulls the armature and closes the contacts in the relay. Just because there is current and a magnetic field does not necessarily mean the contacts were closed or that if they were, they are good undamaged clean contacts. Here is a better way to determine if your merge relay is working.

Get you digital voltmeter and check the voltage across the two big terminals with the merge relay on ( your normal configuration ). A very low voltage in the range of .1V or less is good. Then turn the merge relayy off ( your dry camping position ) and allow some time to pass - a few hours. Then again measure the voltage across the big terminals with your DC meter and it should be considerably higher than it was before, indicating the contacts have opened and you are seeing the difference between your chassis and house batteries.

Let us know what you find.

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Old 04-08-2012, 11:03 AM   #20
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Thanks Russ,

I'll try it tomorrow when I have time.

Are you still in the Florida Keys?
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