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Old 03-14-2011, 05:18 PM   #1
Newell 493
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Default Need lower bay lift supports source

Does anyone have a source and part numbers for the lower bay gas charged lift supports for a 1998 model coach? I can measure them but I also need the "force" or resistance to get the proper support.

Tom Gelder
1988 Newell Coach # 493
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:30 PM   #2
RussWhite
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Tom,

Those gas springs don't last too long any in application it seems.

I have included a link to the vendor I use when I buy replacements. I have been lucky is being able to get the information on spring pressure from the springs I have replaced. It seems to vary depending upon how my bay door is made (bus type or piano hinge type ) as well as the weight of the door.

Hope this help as the prices seem reasonable and the service has been good.

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/l...E2E52A3BDA2%7D

Also including this an a short link in case there is any problem with the long link.

http://tinyurl.com/4qfplnq

Russ White - #530
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Old 03-14-2011, 07:26 PM   #3
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Tom,
I used the same source as Russ-spd hardware. I replaced all the gas shocks on the panagraph(bus style) lift doors. I have one bay that is only 27 1/2" wide that houses my invertor. The two doors on that bay took part #gsni-2300-120. All other panagraph doors took part #gsni-2300-150. The gsni series is the direct replacement for what came on a '99 vintage coach. I'm guessing yours are the same. Be advised that you have to compress the gas shock about 1" to install. Newell has a homemade tool to install them. I made a close copy.

Hope this helps..........................
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:50 PM   #4
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Look carefully on the strut. Most have printing on them that can be deciphered into both the stroke and the pressure.

I found that when I typed that number and gas strut into google, I was presented with multiple sources.

So...........when you get them. Look at the ball joint ends. If you remove the metal clip you can slide the end over the existing ball joint. It is not necessary to unbolt the strut. But in either approach to installation, you will find the strut is slightly longer than the stock spacing, and you will be hard pressed (no pun intended) to compress them enough by hand to get them installed.

I know I used a cobbled up strap and cinch winch to compress it enough to install. There has to be a better way.

Anyone?
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
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Rheavn, I have a box of new struts to replace failed old ones on my rig. Do you have any specifics of the Newell home-made tool that you copied?
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:58 AM   #6
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I'll post a picture tomorrow.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:03 AM   #7
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Thanks Steve, I had to get my son to help me compress mine.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:31 AM   #8
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wow, you guys are making this sound complicated with tools etc. i can change a strut in about 30 seconds with nothing other than a small screwdriver or angled pick.

i have bought the struts from several places. newell is the most expensive by far at over 20 dollars each. once you know the length and stroke, look on ebay. you should be able to get them for 5-10 dollars each and are of equal quality. email steve at ohopbob@yahoo.com


i was lucky to find a case of 70 that i paid 83 dollars shipped, but i have discovered mine are 2 inches shorter than almost everyone elses.

the longer ones i got a case of 50 for 83 bucks shipped and got them for someone else on the forum.

i have used or given away most of mine so dont have much left to give.

extended length is 437mm 17.2 inches (center to center of socket).

stroke is 159mm 6.2 inch stroke

tube is 18mm

rod is 8mm

do NOT put the 120pound struts on as they will break up your mounts. stay with 90 pounds. newell sold me 120 pound ones and they ripped up alot of my door mounts.

the ones i got cheap are 82 pounds (365 newtons)


the balls tend to get worn as well and i have replaced most of them as well. the guy on ebay includes them with the end sockets and gas strut.

later

tom
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:02 AM   #9
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Tom,
It sounds like this is a case of no two Newells being alike. Some where after 1990 Newell made a change. It sounds like yours are mounted to a mount on the door. The newer coaches are mounted to the panagraph door hinge. Yours mounted like the ones on my Country Coach where no compression was required. Look at the specs of my gas springs: 20" extended length---12" compressed length--8" stroke. The force of my gas springs are 150 lbs & 120 lbs---much heavier than yours. When the sun comes up I'll take some pictures. If we ever have a "informal rally" I'll bring the tool & install them for any one attending or you can make a copy of the tool.
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:22 PM   #10
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Picture #1 is the pipe clamp I used at first. It worked fine if you have access to both the front & rear ball mounts. Once you get to your plumbing bay, fuel tank bay, etc you won't have access to the inside ball mounts. Picture # 2 is the tool I manufactured after seeing the tool Newell used. Their tool was slightly different as they used a sliding hook to hold onto the panagraph hinge cross member. Pictures #3 & 4 are the tool in place.

I took one gas spring off & you only need to compress the gas spring about a half inch.

Handy hints: cut a 2 x 4 to hold up the door before you start. If doing a bay where access to the inside ball mount is restricted(plumbing bay, fuel tank bay, etc), unscrew the old gas spring from the inside ball mount. Then unscrew the ball mount from the new gas spring and screw the new gas spring onto the old ball mount that is still in the bay. Then you just compress & mount the front ball mount & it's done.

Caution: If your coach has the glass mercury switch to turn on the bay light when the door opens, take the time to unscrew the holder & move out of your way. I learned the hard way--they break!
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:23 AM   #11
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Rheavn, thanks for the explanation and excellent photos of the "tool". Although I don't have a welder, I can fabricate a functional equivalent.
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:56 AM   #12
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For replacing lifting rods, I've tried to make one but never have seen one.
please post photo.......I have replaced all my bay lifts and inside console as well.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:05 PM   #13
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Express1,
Go back to message #10 & you'll see pictures.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:40 AM   #14
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Always a day late and $100. short.....I spent nearly 3 hrs with in house welder trying to make such a tool. I had never seen one and trying to reinvent the wheel never works...

That looks like a marketable product..... Any sales yet
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:02 AM   #15
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The highest form of flattery is when someone copies. Newell let me copy. Feel free to copy prototype 1.................
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:05 AM   #16
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Using Rheavn's photo of his strut tool, I fabricated a knock-off that uses bolts for connections instead of welds.

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:16 AM   #17
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As requested, sketch of gas spring tool with dimensions. I used two sizes of square tubing, 1" and 5/8". The curved section is 1/2 of a 1" galvanized pipe although I think 3/4" will work better. Make the 1/2 pipe piece wider than the 1" handle (about 1/4" each side), the extra width will help hold the gas spring head. All the bolts are 1/4" except for two, 1/8" machine screws that hold the 1/2 round piece to the handle (heads countersunk).

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