Black water tank removal

[chinacreek]

I have a 1988 coach. All the Sanitron sensors that I can see are corroded and loose, some are beginning to leak, all six need to be repaired. I looks like the only way to do this is to remove the tank completely. Is there anyone out there that knows the procedure for removing the tank. It appears that which ever side I take the tank out on some plumbing will need to be cut and removed. Which side is the best to take it out from? I would like to avoid disrupting the fresh water side of the compartment but am not sure that will be possible.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks; Charlie

[encantotom]

are you talking about the sensors for detecting levels?

i would just plug any holes from sensors and put either a different sensor in or leave it alone. if you have the plastic tank i wouldnt take it out as the likelihood of damaging it has to be high.

tom

[chockwald]

Good advice, Tom.

[HoosierDaddy]

Yeah it would be easier to upgrade the sensors. Here is an example.

http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/01/12/rv-holding-tank-monitor-system

I have no experience with SeeLevel. I would recommend a search to find a sensor system that meets your needs.

[chinacreek]

I'am talking about the sensors for the electronic oder control system. There are 6 total, 3 on the wall side of the waste tank and 3 on the forward side of the tank toward the fresh water tank. They are about an inch up from the bottom of the tank. The ones on the front side of the tank, toward the water tank, at least can be seen. The two on the outside can be reached the one in the center front not so easy. The major problem is with the 3 on rear side of the tank next to the wall. I can see and reach the 2 on the outside but they are so close to the wall I can't work on them. The one center of the rear side I can't even see. The ones that I can reach are all loose and the rubber seal is cracked and rotting,one of them is leaking. It seems that to avoid a huge mess in the not to distant future I have no choice but to plug these 6 holes. As much as I hate the idea of removing the tank and risking damage I see no other way.

Charlie;

[encantotom]

i would certainly not remove the tank for that. just plug the holes.

tom

[2dogs]

our 87 is the same way you must remove or move the tank to gain access to the back one the spacer between the fresh and black tank is movable but might not help much you will have to cut a couple of drain pipes and get some fernco's to reatach the pipes and try to move the tank over and reach in through the drain-drains....go to your local vet supply and get some calving gloves to reach in doesnt sound or look like fun but looks inevitable good luck Brian

[Wally Arntzen]

I agree with Tom, plug the holes and forget about taking it out.

Wally

[tuga]

Charlie,

If you are concerned about odor control try this product.

http://www.alwaysfreshinc.com/

I have used it for years and it really works!

[chinacreek]

Wally;

How can I plug the three holes on the back side against the rear wall of the compartment? I can't figure out how to get to them to work on them without moving the tank. It is the compartment that is the farthest to the rear and I thought if I could cut through the wall from the back, that might work, but I can't see a way to do that. This is coach #161 should be just like yours.

Should be " Just like eating BBQ ribs" and I'am OK with that.

Thanks for your response ,

Charlie

[chinacreek]

Tuga;

Thanks for the link. Once I get the leak stopped I'll give that a try.

Charlie

[chinacreek]

Wally;

From reading your Posts I can see you have done a fair amount of work on the plumbing of these coaches. If you had to, for some reason, remove the waste tank from your coach which side would you take it out through? I would like to slide it out without having to remove the hot water heater and the fresh water tank. Do you think that might be possible?

Thanks;

Charlie

[2dogs]

drivers side on ours,Brian

[chinacreek]

Brian;

I'am not sure I understand you, but lets see. Are you saying if I can slide the backwater tank forward up against the fresh tank I might reach down the drain hole in the bathroom floor to work on center rear sensor? Of course it wouldn't hurt if my arm was as long as an NBA center's.

Let me know if I am close. (Brian this is in response to your first post)

Charlie

[2dogs]

I was saying cut the pipes necessary to move the tank away from the wall and reach through the outlets. Brian

[prairieschooner]

Sorry but if I had to go through all of that work I would consider up-grading the system. I do not see a need for a Black Water and Gray Water Tank. Ours has been replaced with simply one Plastic Tank (Black and Gray Combined) with the Plumbing Up-Graded to compensate. I can have the Gray Water Discharge while having the Black Water inside of the Holding Tank like all of the newer ones do. That is why I said that if I was to go through all of that work, I would up-grade it.
:thumbsup:

[2dogs]

our 87 also has black/grey combined Brian

[chockwald]

Personally, I like having a separate black tank, but I use the word "separate" loosely. It is one large tank divided into two compartments. I know the theory behind one tank is it just gives you the entire tank for all waste water, and, therefore, the ability to dispose of more gray water. That being said, I like the option of being able to dispose of my gray water without needing a dump station if I am in the wilderness. With one big tank I lose that option.

[Wally Arntzen]

If your in the wilderness what option do you loose. It was used as fertelizer for centeries in this country untill the chemical companies convinced politicians to ban it and sell chemicals. Its still used in most countries in Asia, lots of Europe and other areas of the world. I would never dump it in a populated area but in the wilderness or out in the boondocks thats what the cheater dump valve is for. I've only done it twice but it was sure nice to have when I needed it.

Thats my 2 cents worth and I'm not letting go.

Wally

[chinacreek]

Prairieschooner;

It seems I have mis-named the tank. I have always called it blackwater if it contained solids. I also have a black/gray tank which can be used both ways depending which valves are open or closed.

Bill, who has an '87', has been messaging me about his experiences with a shop removing his tank out the curb side when he had this problem out on the road. I'am feeling fortunate to be at home dealing with this.

All this response has been very helpful, THANKS EVERYONE!

I'am diving in today, and will update when I know more.

Charlie

[chockwald]

Wally, no doubt you are correct about the reasons why dumbing a black tank's contents on the land became illegal, but the fact remains that it is illegal, and that is the predominant reason I don't dump my black tank, other than at a dump station, or other legally appropriate location. The other reason is that I wouldn't want to be near a spot where I dumped my black tank contents....seems to me that it would be a lot of work to dump it in a considerate manner without a lot of preparation in advance of the "dump", especially if I was to remain in that location afterwards.

That's my two bits, but I'm not holding on too tight.

Clarke

If your in the wilderness what option do you loose. It was used as fertelizer for centeries in this country untill the chemical companies convinced politicians to ban it and sell chemicals. Its still used in most countries in Asia, lots of Europe and other areas of the world. I would never dump it in a populated area but in the wilderness or out in the boondocks thats what the cheater dump valve is for. I've only done it twice but it was sure nice to have when I needed it.

Thats my 2 cents worth and I'm not letting go.

Wally

[Wally Arntzen]

Charlie, on my 88 I have a foam block that is about 5" thick, 8" high and goes accross between the water tank and the waste tank. If you have something similar try pulling it out and see if you can move the waste tank toward the water tank a few inches. If you can is it possible to push in a steel plate 1/8" or more between the waste tank and the wall of the next bay.If you can you could cut holes in the bay wall and repair the leaking plugs, pop rivit patches on the wall and you would not have to remove the tank.
The need for the plate would be to protect the tank so you don't cut or punch holes in it while cutting the hole in the wall.
I would try all options rather than take on removing the tank which could open up all kinds of other problems.
If you measure from the edge of the tank to the plugs you should be able to duplicate it on the wall and cut the holes where you want them. With the steel plate you can use a sabre saw with a short blade or some good tin snips if you have.
All coaches are so different so what I am suggesting may or may not work in your situation.

[Wally Arntzen]

Charlie, If I had to take mine out I would take out on the water tank side. I replaced my water tank about 4 years ago and it was quite easy. There is no question that removing the water tank would be a lot less work than removing all the plumbing on the other side.

Clarke, I would never dump the waste on a spot that I was staying at and sometimes the old statement "rules are made to be broken" is in order. One time I was between Vegas and Twin Falls Idaho on a highway that was 490 miles with on town between them and I was having problems with the coach, the tank was full and starting to smell inside. I simply pulled off on a road that was for bringing cattle for open grazing and it was close to the staging area where they dump them off and I pushed the majic dump button and let er go. I was moving about 5 miles per hour so I spread it out and left the area with no quilt associated with my need to get rid of it. That dump is on the coaches for those kind of situations which are considedred emergencies.
About 10 years ago I was driving my car close to Fargo, ND, had to take a leak and could not make it to Fargo or a rest area so I pulled my car over to side of the Interstate and angled it. I got out and a highway patrol man pulled right behind me and asked if I had a problem and told that I could not make it to a bathroom and had to go behind the open door of my car. He said that is an emergency go ahead and left. I did me deed and he had a choice of letting me do it or telling me to go in my pants. True story

[folivier]

Here's my story. We used to have a travel trailer on some property we owned. The trailer was on very sand ground, so sandy that if you dumped a gallon of water it would disappear and not puddle at all. So we just dumped our gray water and planned to haul the trailer out when we needed to dump. Well as most great ideas go that never happened, so I dug a hole and dumped the black then gray tank. Would have been a great plan if our stupid lab wouldn't have decided to go swimming! Oh yeah! Then she proceeded to chase us around shaking like only dogs can do. We all ended up in the river with a bar of soap.

[chockwald]

Forest, that is toooo funny!

[prairieschooner]

Our '82 was reportedly upgraded at Newell during a previous ownership. That is when the Holding Tank was upgraded to a single Tank with Valves that allow the Gary Water to go Overboard or into the single Tank. If I was able to bring our coach to my cabin I would not hesitate to use the Gray Water to water the Forest, actually most of the people that live up here Full Time have done this with their Cabin's Plumbing.
I am not sure about the individual capacity of the black/gray tanks so I cannot comment. I agree that removing the water tank first would be allot easier to gain access to the Holding Tank. Repairs to that Tank would then need to be evaluated after an examination of the problem. With all of the work involved I may consider a new tank just too be safe.

After you remove the Holding Tank may I suggest that you support the Tank and fill it with Freshwater (maybe flush it first) and use Food Coloring to help find the Leaks. Red or Blue worked the best when I was doing Boat Repairs, I stayed away from Yellow or Green for obvious reasons.