Shopping For New Tires

[Narrowrd]

Here's what I've found so far. I got a quote in PHX from Firebird Tire on 2 Steer tires and 4 drive tires, and he fired back that he wouldn't recommend that for safety and ride quality reasons, that all six tires should be the same. I am in the process of responding, will include a note that I will be moving my current steer tires to the tag axle. That should fire him up. :thumbsup: I can't imagine an industry dominated by task specific tires (tag, steer and drive) being that wrong? He quoted RV specific tires, so maybe all he had was All Position tires and needed to sell it. Dunno.

Tax at $250 makes me want to buy the tires any state that has a tax cap. Mounting and balancing is a cool $500.

6- 11r24.5 Toyo Load Range H M154 $483.00 x 6 =$2,898.00
tax on Toyo tires $240.53
total on Toyo tires including valve and labor package $3,602.59


6- 11r24.5 Dunlop Sp160 load range H new tires $443.00 x 6 = $2,658.00
tax on Dunlop tires $220.61
Total out the door on the Dunlop tires including labor and valve package $3,342.67




The WXYZ program for Michelin tires is something I've looked into, but there are a lot of people that downright despise Michelins. I've always appreciated the fact that there is more than one way to skin a cat. I'm still looking, anyone want to chime in with advice or thoughts feel free!

[Chester B. Stone, Jr.]

I will never, ever, run a Toyo tire again. Blew two almost new steer tires, one doing 70MPH on I-10. The cause was tread separation, but Toyo would not honor warranty because I did not save the razor sharp carcuses which would have been impossible. FMCA has a deal with Michelin called the Michelin Advantage Program. Worth looking into.

[Chester B. Stone, Jr.]

I have never met anyone that despised Michelin, and most of the Newell owner I know, including me, will only run with Michelins. In 30+ years of motorhomes, I have never blown a Michelin, but blew both Toyos.

[Narrowrd]

Thank you, I ran across your post about Toyos while I was researching. I think one of the Prevost guys had a Michelin blowout, and a couple other posts people just don't like them. That's sort of true with any brand, so I take it w a grain of salt. As for the Toyos, I found a lot of negative information- people said their US made tires are great, others that will put them on the drive axle but never the steer... There is enough negative that I don't really want to go with Toyo.

[Chester B. Stone, Jr.]

I think you made a wise decision.

[Narrowrd]

Some of the fuel efficient tread designs offer "up to" a 3% fuel savings, and those are usually marketed heavily and cost extra. I ran across this article which proposes you can save 30% or more based on variables. Fuel economy is one consideration when buying tires, but a smooth running coach lends itself to better fuel economy, so in the end it's a win win. For what it's worth-

http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/docs/cummins_secrets_of_better_fuel_economy.pdf

[MrE]

That's a great attachment, thank you!

Rock Solid Rules

Every 2% reduction in aerodynamic drag results in approximately 1% improvement in fuel economy.

Above 55 mph each 1 mph increase in vehicle speed decreases fuel economy by 0.1 mpg

Worn tires provide better fuel economy than new tires, up to 7% better fuel economy.

Used lug drive tires can get up to 0.4 mpg better than new lug tires

Ribbed tires on the drive axles provide 2-4% better fuel economy than lugged tires.

Every 10 psi that a truck’s tire s are underinflated reduces fuel economy by 1%.

The break in period for tires is between 35,000 and 50,000 miles.

Tires make biggest difference in mpg below around 50 mph; aerodynamics is the most important factor over around 50 mph.

So where do you buy tires with between 35k and 50k miles?

[Narrowrd]

That's a good question. :) I ride mountain bikes and have quite the stash of worn but fast tires that I keep for long rides as it requires less effort, fewer calories etc.

I wonder what 50k miles represents in % tread? It just sounds like a lot to me.

[MrE]

From reading other posts on this forum, I'm pretty certain that the majority of Newell owners replace their tires based on age rather than lack of tread. It's also a possibility that driving to Alaska one might want to opt for deeper tread on a tire than fuel economy. Anyone out there with other opinions?

[Narrowrd]

It's also a possibility that driving to Alaska one might want to opt for deeper tread on a tire than fuel economy.

I thought as much, which is why I went the direction of drive specific lugged tires for more traction, but after talking to many commercial drivers here in AK, they all say the same thing- for touring purposes, ribbed tires all the way around. This is what the RV Tire Co recommended as well, unless I am going to be doing a lot of dirt roads, lots of snow, etc. A shallow (fuel efficient) tread might lend itself to punctures easier, but with that ply rating, it's still a very robust tire.

[Narrowrd]

I ended up going with Community Tire PRos in Phoenix- good service and would highly recommend. One my wheels was torqued on so tight they broke lugs while trying to remove- finally got out the torch and cut the bolts off. They didn't charge any additional even though it took two days. I sold my take off tires and that offset a bit of the cost as well.