Water Heater Anode Rod

[fulltiming]

My coach uses a 120 volt, 20 gallon Raritan marine water heater with engine heat exchanger. Three years ago, shortly after I purchased the Newell, I had to replace the water heater due to a leaking tank. Although there are a number of potential causes, if is likely that the tank began leaking due to electrolysis. To minimize the potential of a recurrence of this problem, I replaced the anode rod this weekend.

Here is a photo of a new anode rod and the anode rod I removed. While the anode rod I removed was still usable, it is obvious that it had been doing its job of becoming the sacrificial. I have not spent too much time in areas with extremely hard water or the anode rod would have exhibited significantly more deterioration. After the anode rod is depleted, further electrolysis will occur taking away metal from the tank itself resulting in thin spots and future leaks. Part of the deterioration of the anode rod is hidden by the calcium deposits. While I could have probably gotten another year or two out of my existing anode rod, the expense and hassle of replacing a water heater is not worth the risk.

Although Raritan uses a substantial anode rod in their water heaters compared to those in most propane water heaters if will eventually because useless. If you haven't replaced the anode rod in your water heater lately, this might be a good time to consider it.

[tuga]

Michael, thanks for the reminder. I don't have a water heater; my Aqua Hot takes care of all of my hot water needs. I was wondering; does the Aqua Hot have a sacrificial anode?
I looked on their website but couldn't find my model (431/12).

[fulltiming]

You are in deed fortunate, wish I did. Since the Aqua-Hot uses a antifreeze/coolant rather than water to heat, it is doubtful that they used an anode rod at that time. The new models don't.

[zcasa]

Thanks very much, Michael. I'm sure our #303 needs this replaced. Looks like it isn't too difficult to replace, how much time did it take you?

David

[fulltiming]

If you have space to remove the 16-1/8" anode rod without rotating the water heater it isn't hard. If the water heater isn't on, i.e. the water isn't hot, you can turn off the water to the water heater, drain the water heater (which takes 20-30 minutes), then remove the outlet water line at the top of the water heater (on your left as you look in from the passenger's side bay door), unscrew the fitting from the water heater and slide the anode rod out. Take the outside fitting off the old anode rod and using plumber's tape, attach it to the new anode rod. Reinstall the anode rod into the opening near the top of the water heater and screw the fitting in to tighten it. Reattach the water outlet line and you are done. A LARGE crescent wrench is invaluable in the removal and installation process. CAUTION: Having the water heater element on without water in the tank will result in the destruction of the heating element.

Since my water was hot, Georgia and I shut off the water heater and each took a shower. We then ran the hot water until it was about 90 degrees. I then drained the water heater. After the water heater was drained, the whole process didn't take more than about 25 minutes.

After you refill the water heater, open up a hot water faucet inside and start refilling the water heater to get the air out of the tank. That will take close to 10 minutes. After you are certain that the tank is full of water, then you can turn the water heater back on.

I would allow about 1 to 1-1/2 hours for the entire job, including draining and refilling assuming the tank is cold.

You didn't ask, but the cheapest price, including shipping, I found on the anode rod (Raritan part #1790010) was from Boater Barn (boaterbarn.com).

[zcasa]

Thanks, Michael. Very informative. I'll give it a try before the Rally. If successful, it will allow more time for partying. LOL.

Have a good Day.

David

[zcasa]

Thanks to Michael's encouragement, I have removed our 19 gallon water heater and replaced the anode rod. Removal was necessary of the water heater, because our anode rod must be replaced from the top, and there is not enough room in the compartment to do that. The anode rod was terrible looking. While having the water heater out, it was also easy to flush and drain all of the sediment. The project was really quite straightforward and we will summerize the coach within two weeks to begin the process of preparing for the rally. With the assistance of this forum, and Michael in particular, some of these projects are very satisfying to do and complete. I gain confidence with each project and appreciate this forum so very much. Thank you to all who participate and help those of us who are more mechanically challenged.

David