Congratulations on your new coach Tim and Laura.
It appears that the device you are referring to is the air/water separator for the 120 volt air compressor. Mine has a manual drain versus the electric solenoid to blow off the water when it is full. The only problem with plugging the hose is that when the bowl is full of water, it will be unable to relieve itself and addition moisture will continue on to the auxiliary air tank, not a good thing. If you can force it to open the valve with the 120 volt air compressor running, you should be able to empty the water from the bowl then plug the line until you get it fixed. There should be a check valve in line to keep the air pressure in the system from back flowing into the air compressor when the compressor is off (switch to turn the 120 v compressor off and on is typically on the dash and marked Air Comp). If the hissing is occurring long after the 120 volt air compressor is shut off, the check valve needs to be replaced also. Your coach has a 12 volt air compressor that will maintain a lower level of pressure (typically 60 psi) to allow operation of the air pocket doors and air toilet (you likely have one or both). If the check valve is bad the 12 volt compressor will run most of the time. The 120 volt compressor will typically turn on at 70-75 psi and shut off at 90-95 psi while the 12 volt will turn try to keep the pressure at 50-60 psi when the 120 volt unit is turned off. If you haven't been running the 120 volt unit when you are on AC power and the engine is not running (the engine driven air compressor will cycle on at about 110-115 and shut off about 125 psi) you might want to try that to see if the pressure from the 120 v compressor will cause the water separator to cycle and reseal.
I have seen a few Newells without the air dryer/water separator on the 120 volt air compressor. That is a bad deal and a water separator should be added to those units.
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