[Richard and Rhonda]

Ok, now that I am completely finished with this little project. Here are my notes that may save you time if you do anything similar.

It takes a 4mm socket to fit on the adjustment screws at the top of the headlights. It's a PITA, but you have to completely unscrew them to get the lights out. Take measurements before you start so you can roughly align the new ones when you put them in.

You will see that the adjustment screws are attached to the light with a twist connector. You have to insert a small screwdriver under both tabs to get them over a locking bump on the headlight. Trust me, if you don't lift up the tabs you cannot remove those buggers.

I soldered all connections including the crimp on. You will need to make two wiring harnesses. One for the driver side and one for the passenger side. Make up the harness on the part the connects to the headlights before you try to fish the harnesses up into the coach. Why? Cause it's difficult to solder reaching while lying on your back and reaching overhead. You have to find a penetration on both sides, cause the genny is right in the middle, and I don't think running headlight wiring under the generator is a great idea.

I used a small piece of wood to place the connector against while soldering. You need to be able to make good contact between the iron and the connector. You will need at least a 100 watt iron. A smaller one just wont get the job done on large gauge wire.

Mark all wiring at both ends with a code you will understand. You will need this code when you start wiring your relays. I used something simple like R O L for Right Outside Low, and L I H for left inside high. By all means make a simple schematic of how you want the connections and use the code you put on the wiring.

I went overkill with 10g wire, but 12 would probably do. I left all of the Newell wiring in place in case someone wants to "undo" my handiwork.

I taped the end of a harness to a small wooden dowel and used it to push through the penetration up into the coach. I pulled the wiring to the passenger kick well where all the other terminations are.

I used a four relay set up. One for the outside lows, one for the outside highs, one for the inside lows, and one for the inside highs. I installed two toggle switches on the console so that I could independently control whether the inside lows or highs were activated when the lights are on.

Now you have all the excess wiring at the terminal board you can cut to the appropriate length so you have a semi pro looking job. Figure out where you want to install the relays and wire them in.

The generator frame will put a significant mark on your forehead if you raise up quickly.