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11-08-2009, 05:57 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 74
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110V compressor leak
Has anyone had to deal with a compressor leak between the head and the body of the 110 compressor. I have been tracing leaks and find the largest ones so far at the 2 heads of the compressor. I have tried to tighten them down but no improvement. I am about to pull it out, remove the heads and if it looks appropriate use some gasket goo, locktight or something similar. Any thoughts of experience in with this problem out there.
Bill
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11-08-2009, 06:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,375
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to clarify, do you mean essentially the head gasket? or the piping in brass that comes off the head?
you can buy rebuild kits for them, i know dean has rebuilt his and i have an old one i want to rebuild.
if it is the brass fitting, then just remove it and reseal it.
the headgasket, it may be metalic, but i dont know.
tom
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11-08-2009, 07:02 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 74
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Tom, the brass fittings are fine, no leaks. The leaks are actually at the head gasket, on both heads. Would you have a heads up on where to find the rebuild kits. Thanks again. Bill
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11-08-2009, 07:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,375
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the compressor that i replaced was a gast. i bought it from grainger. they also evidently have rebuild kits.
you might try them.
dean, if you are looking at this post, where did you get the rebuild kit for yours?
tom
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11-08-2009, 07:31 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Whoa !!!!!
You should have a check valve just downstream of the compressor. The compressor itself I would not expect to be airtight. The checkvalve should keep the compressor from leaking. Those valves are notorious for leaking by.
__________________
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1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
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Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
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11-08-2009, 07:42 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 74
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OK guys, thanks! Richard - you got me stopped before I had the compressor laying in parts on the bench. I will go check the "downstream of compressor check valve" and continue downstream from there. What a terrific forum.
Bill
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11-08-2009, 07:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,375
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hey, mr richard is right. i replaced my check valve as the one i had didnt "check" anymore.
much cheaper and easier than the head gasket (though mine doesnt leak there either)
tom
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11-09-2009, 02:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Idyllwild, CA
Posts: 1,340
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Please just a word of CAUTION, if you try to test the Check Valve make sure that there is a Tank between the Air Compressor and any Shut off Valves!!!
When I was in the Industry I was called back to work to repair an Air Compressor that EXPLODED when a Ball Valve was Closed. Whoever installed the Plumbing put a Ball Valve right after the Air Compressor, when the Air Compressor was started with the Ball Valve closed it made a hell of a noise and sent Cast Iron like Shrapnel.
Very dangerous affair to say the least!
__________________
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Steve & Tricia
1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
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2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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11-14-2009, 03:25 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 424
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I ordered a rebuild kit (part # Gast k260 service kit) for my Gast compressor from:
Isaacs fluid Power Equipment Co.
Mason, OH
Phone:
888-336-8501
I took pics of the rebuild but I am having trouble uploading them....
Dean
__________________
1993 Newell 45'#316, 1976 Trans Am 455, 1967 GTO, 1953 Chevrolet 3105 (panel truck),1952 Chevrolet 3600,1969 Airstream Overlander. Always fixing something!
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