Tankless Water Heaters

[2StrokeDiesel]

I would like to eliminate the conventional water heater tank and go with a tankless water heater. I want a system that can provide enough hot water in a relatively short amount of time for several people to shower, shave, etc.

[DavidBall]

depending on how you operate your coach (Park or boondocking) would be to choose an alternative. If you drive or run your generator quite a bit you could opt for a hot water tank which has an internal (marine) coil wherein you could circulate the hot water from your engine or generator and make hot water while that source is running.

Another choice would be, a solar heat exchanger on the roof, or remote (which would require a small circulating pump) which would ask Old Sol(The Sun) to heat your water for you. The downside of that is a well insulated storage tank, of some capacity, to retain the heated water.

There doesn't seem to be any easy or inexpensive choices that I know of.

[lbrachfe]

Wondering if the conventional small undersink tankless coil box would supply enough water fast enough ? Anybody have some input on this ?

[prairieschooner]

probably not enough for showers.

[rellick]

I am considering one of these tankless water heaters in my 77, I see they are quite common in the rv world, has anyone tried one? most I have looked at are propane only, that would suit me fine.
I changed out the one in my house to a tankless and we like it, the only downside I have found is it does take a bit longer for it to reach the tap, but it never runs out.

[jack14r]

I have one in my Liberty along with a 20 gallon conventional water heater,we do not want to run out of hot water in the shower and this is plumed to the shower after the conventional water heater,it draws 38 amps on both legs of 240 volts if it is turned wide open.Liberty added this so it is only wired to work with the generator,so if I am plugged in I can start the gen after my wife gets out of the shower and never run out of hot water.It is so small it could be installed anywhere and they make different sizes,I will look at the label and report the brand later.

[folivier]

If you have the Raritan water heater you can change out the electric element to a 2000 watt as long as your wiring is adequate. It's a common element found at Lowe's etc. I did this on my '93 and it helped the recovery rate compared to the standard 1250 watt element. Not a tankless but a simple and cheap thing to try first.

[rellick]

That is an option I might try Forest, it is a raritan with a 1250 element, are the 2000 watt 110 volt also? I have my plumbing bay gutted and thought id change things up a bit, but you have me thinking. I have a webaso diesel heater I was thinking of installing also.
Jack I like your idea also, electric would be an easier hook up than LP, maybe I wont throw out the raritan quite yet.

[jack14r]

I do have the Raritan and do not want to increase the wattage because the amperage draw while plugged in with 4 cruise airs running and other electrical items is around 35-40 continuous,my problem is showers one right after the other,I doubt that the 2000 watt element would help us much.I do agree that the recovery rate of the Raritan is slow,it draws about 10 amps on 110 volts.I did look at the tankless heater and it is a Titan and I think that it is manufactured in Florida,it has been in my coach for 5 years and has performed perfectly.

[folivier]

I spoke with Raritan a couple years back when the original element burnt out. They said it was a common element and a 2000 would work. They also said it could be converted to a 240v unit by redoing the wiring and using a 240v element. So that may be another option to get a faster recovery. But I'd check with them.
Here is an email I received from Kim at Raritan Engineering:
Hi Forest you can change to a 240V element the witing is just a bit different, you would need to consult the manual for the difference in the 240 Wiring but other than that there is nothing else you would need to do.

Please let me know if you require additional info.

THanks
Kim

Here is the link for the owners manual: http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/water_heater/L206v0911.pdf

[rellick]

Thanks guys, I will check into those options, the element in the raritan is not working anyway and I am at the point I can change whatever I want, everything is going to be rebuilt or repaced, starting with the floor. I do like the stainless steel water tank it originally came with, perhaps ill give it a polish before I reinstall it, ill have to wear sunglasses when I open my plumbing bay!!

[rellick]

I searched high and low for a water heater both on demand and the same as original, everyone I talked to just had a puzzled look on thier face when I talked about engine coolant in a water heater, both rv places and water heater places, I didnt even bother with any marine dealers, but i am sure they would be able to order one in. All the places I looked didnt even have a new element for my old one, until I stopped in at the small town hardware store in Sexsmith, and low and behold covered in a bit of dust with the package that has some damage on it was an element for the water heater!! 1500watt Not sure how long it was sitting there for but it sits there no longer!!

[MrE]

Not sure of the quality, but Atwood makes 6 and 10 gallon water heaters that are LP and electric with heat exchangers. GCH6A-10E and GCH10A-4E http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/waterheater.pdf

[Neweller]

I had Raritan's in all three Newell's. The one in the '78 had almost constant hot water and any recovery rate was very quick. I never had a lick of trouble with it, so I never had to break into it for repairs. It was virtually new when I acquired the coach and lasted through two other owners after I used it extensively while building a home, in fact 4 persons using it every morning for almost a year without fail and we seldom waited on water to heat back up. Now I'm not talking 20 minute showers either. I wish I would have known what element was in it, but I don't.

[rellick]

One of those would be the answer, on my coach it would be tricky venting the lp. I will use the old one for now, here is a couple of pics of the bay floor, wood on steel is how it was built, I am going to add some more crossmembers to take the sag out of the floor and put aluminum with no wood. The old wood was removed with a shovel and a shopvac...

[folivier]

I'll have to dig it up again but someone makes a tankless with a forced air exhaust which should work if you vent out of the floor of the compartment.

[MrE]

Keith, if I had your ambition I would probably redo all my plumbing in color coded pex.

[rellick]

Forest, are they the powervent style with the abs or pvc intake and exhaust? I could probably work with that. I am not to keen on hacking any holes in the side of the coach.
Jon I do plan on using pex tubing, with all new valves etc. Ill check on red and blue for hot and cold, sounds good

[Neweller]

Originally Posted by MrE

Keith, if I had your ambition I would probably redo all my plumbing in color coded pex.

Jon, I still have the stamina, but not the back and body flexibility. Stretching does do wonders, but once I'm near healed from my hernia problem, I think it's time to get serious into yoga and such.

Keith, that is quite the additional task you have to endure but once your done you can always say I'm glad that part is over with and feel good about what you have.

[rellick]

Well I decided to beef up the structure, also fixing the sag. I ran a piece of 1x1 along the outside edge then sistered another 1-1/2 tubing along side. then tied all of it together with the cross members. Sealed it all then put a coat of POR15 on everything. Tomorrow ill put a sealer strip on top of the supports then install 3/16 aluminum sheets on top with stainless rivets, then seal it in.
My tanks and plumbing are next....