Adjusting rear ride height

[tuga]

Originally Posted by Richard and Rhonda

Tuga,

Mine will slip if I have to raise or lower the back a great deal. I think that the rubber on the "P" compresses over time. I have even installed a second hose clamp with very little improvement. I can pretty much count on having to adjust them if I level on a steep slope.

One of my valves is leaking, and I have two replacements. I am just waiting for a pretty day to work on them.

The other thing that I have noticed is not to get too aggressive with adjusting them. They have a little play in them, and I think the best way after adjusting is to air the coach down to below normal ride height and allow the HCV (height control valve) to bring it up to level. I find if I allow it to settle to level from the jacked up position, then it levels to a higher ride height. Then, after a few trips around the block, it will settle at a lower position.

Playing with these things was maddening to me until I discovered that little gem. It's a PITA to have to air it down, and let it air up after each adjustment but it saves time and frustration in the long run.

And finally, I found a very close correlation between the control rod and the ride height. If you need to move the coach 1/4 then move the rubber "p" 1/4 inch in the same direction you want the coach to move.

Thanks Richard, I'm glad to know that I am not losing my mind!

Using a nut driver, can I snug it up kind-a tight?

Or is the second hose clamp the better choice?

[Richard and Rhonda]

Yes, the nutdriver is the tool of choice, yes, snug it kinda tight, and yes install a second clamp.

AND either measure or take a picture of how much rod is sticking out of the top of the "p" when you get it right. If it slips you can put it right if you know what that dimension is.

[RussWhite]

Would someone who does this adjustment themselves please describe how it is done. I am mainly interested in how you access the clamps and move the rod. It's a long reach back in there from outside and unless the bags are nearly full it looks hard to get to. Do you crawl under and do it that way?
Thanks, Russ

[rheavn]

Russ,
Hook the coach to "shop air". Take your four corner measurements & determine where and how you need to adjust. Raise the coach all the way up. For the rear I can reach in over the drive tires with a 1/4" nut driver & loosen the clamp. I make the needed adjustment up or down using a 30" tool I made with a "v" in the end using the tires as a lever point. Push the rubber boot up or down as needed the desired distance. Moving boot up raises coach and lowering boot lowers the coach. I work with adjustments of 1/4" or less. I retighten clamp. For the front I have to block up coach, crawl under & make my adjustment. Drop coach down to lower than ride height. Then let it come up to ride height & make your four corner measurements. Continue until you have 12" at each measurement points. This is a very tedious & time consuming process.

Hope this helps....................

Tuga,
Just to show you how different 2 Newells can be, I don't have skid plates on the rear. My hitch is my skid plate, as it is the lowest point.

[tuga]

Please Please Please Please !!!!!!


Put Blocks Or A 20 Ton Bottle Jack Under The Coach Before Getting Under There. Jack Stands Work Best (20 Ton Jack Stands)

That Thing Can Lose Air Quickly And Crush You To Death!

Everyone Who Is Going To Go Under A Coach - Please Block It Up On The Skid Plates Or Some Other Sturdy Part Of The Body. Blocking Up The Axles Will Not Stop You From Being Crushed To Death If It Loses Air.

Block The Chassis Or Body Of The Coach. Ask Somebody If You Don't Understand Where To Put The Blocks Or Jack Stands.

[Neweller]

Could not agree more.

[smagown]

I wouldn't put my arms or hands over the tires or try to look over the top of them without blocking or jack stands. If the body comes down it would crush whatever is between the top of the tire and under the fenderwell. I bought Gray Manufacturing jack stands, and jack, all 25 ton capacity.
Be careful!!

[prairieschooner]

I agree guys this could be an issue. I use the same blocks that I use for leveling the coach as blocking under the coach. I raise the coach and then stack the blocking under the frame.
As a side note, when the leveling arm is released it could lower and absolutely crush you. Our '82 did come down while I was under it but it was blocked!! no worries but I would make sure that it is blocked before doing any work.