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Old 10-28-2009, 02:13 AM   #1
chockwald
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Default Portable Macerator Pump

Came across this "portable" system for pumping out your "black water":

http://www.maceratorpumps.com/catalo...products_id=28

Richard mentioned he was going to put together something like this. This doesn't seem too expensive. What say ya'll??
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:57 AM   #2
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i dont know if i would want to go to the hassle of having a poop pump to clean up and store.

i have one hard plumbed in, and if i didnt and wanted one, i would likely hard plumb it in as well.

here is a picture of mine.

tom
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:23 PM   #3
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As soon as my poop pump gets here, I'll post some pics of the install.

I think it will be the best of both worlds, in that it will be a semi perm install with quick connect for reversion to the standard gravity dump.

I also think I am going to have about 250 0r less in the entire setup including hoses, which is considerably less than the kits are selling for.

Stay tuned. I don't know if I can keep Tom's std of documentation, but I'll try.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:15 PM   #4
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Tom, what is the switch labeled "Odor Control"?
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:59 PM   #5
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when you flip that switch, all the odor in the neighborhood goes away....

it is supposed to run a current through the tank and kill the odor. to be honest, i have no idea if it works or not and have not spent any time on it. i know clarke and michael and a few others have and i believe say it works.

gee, someone actually looks at the pictures....impressive.

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Old 10-29-2009, 09:22 PM   #6
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I have the same switch, and it works wonderfully....NEVER any odor. I leave it on all the time. The label on my switch is IONIZER. I, to, am impressed. I didn't get close enough to read the labels when I opened the pictures, but sure enough, they are readable!

In the picture my "IONIZER" is the little black box located about 3/4 of the way down on the left bulkhead in front of the fresh water tank. It has an on and off switch, and a "test" switch, which when depressed will blink indicating it is working....it is working.

Richard, are you ordering the components separately and putting them together?
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:42 PM   #7
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So should the switch be up or down?
Don't know if mine works or not, did find a burnt fuse when I was wiring up some docking lights.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:54 AM   #8
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The switch should be in the up position to be on.

The manual says that some water should be added to the tank and a little salt. Then every few minutes, the system should cycle in for a few minutes. When it is on, the manual claims that the tank lights will all glow dimly. Mine never has so maybe mine doesn't work either.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:05 PM   #9
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The way that deodorizer works is this. If there is some salt in the waste tank, then applying a slight current across the tank causes some of the NaCl to deionize into Sodium and Chlorine. Actually it creates Sodium Hypochlorite, but the effect is the same as pouring some Clorox in the tank.

The same tecnology is used by the military for treating drinking water, and also by some high end swimming pools to keep the water free of algae.

Yes, Clarke, it is a DIY project on the macerator.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:19 PM   #10
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Wow, didn't know my pool was "high end"!
This system is pretty popular in our area: salt water pools.
Didn't realize the odor control worked the same way. Better go put some salt in mine.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:03 PM   #11
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Mine works wonderfully. No oders and I had it checked a couple of years ago when at Newell because I really did not know if it worked and it checked out good.
I am not aware of anything in my coach that does not work at this time, but I am a fanatic about everything working.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:17 PM   #12
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Is the system that you are referring to as an Ionizer labeled SANITRON? I would like to get my SANITRON system up and running.
I do not have a manual and cannot find anything with google. Could someone send me a copy of the manual prairieschooner@verizon.net
As I understand the System, there are probes in the Holding Tank and that the SANITRON applies current that "Zap" the water and that minimizes the odors? Is the system 12 Volts DC?, that I can check to see if there is Voltage.
Richard, could you go through that a little slower?
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:47 PM   #13
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it is basically a chlorinator. you can generate chlorine from salt water using an anode and cathode...basically positive and negative.

my pool is a salt water pool with a low level of salt, (about 3000 ppm) that then passes through a grid that has current applied to it that then generates the chlorine for the pool.

to be honest i have no idea if mine is workable, as i have not put any salt in the system, but it should be easy enough to check with a voltmeter. i will put that on my list....

same concept here.

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Old 11-09-2009, 01:51 AM   #14
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OK but is it a 12 Volts DC System or a 120 Volts AC System?
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:00 AM   #15
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Since the terminals on the probes are "bare" I would think it is 12 volts. Oh, I found a fuse burnt in the compartment just forward of my water bay that was marked "odor control" and it was a 12 volt fuse.
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Old 11-09-2009, 04:16 AM   #16
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Forest is correct it is a 12 volt system. My information says it needs a little bit of water in the tank to work and that adding salt to it enhances its operation. I don't know what you check to prove that is working. They checked mine at Newell and said everything was working and it works fine.
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Old 11-26-2009, 04:39 PM   #17
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I finally had time over the T'day break to work on this. As usual there were a few challenges. The first was that I did not have room in either bay to semi-permanently mount the macerator to the existing discharge fitting. I also had very limited room to cut into the existing drain piping to do a permanent install. You can see what I am talking about in the picture of the bay.

I wanted to install the pump on the existing fitting so that I could easily take it on and off. I really only need the macerator when emptying the tank at home.

The second issue is that my rig has the discharge fittings that Newell sourced from Dupree products. They are not the Airstream variety nor the standard Thetford version either. To quote Tom " WHAT is that?" when he saw the fitting in Austin. I was able to get some fittings from Dupree although they do not list them on their website.

I took the fittings and the pump to Home Depot and Camping World to find something hopefully that would bridge the two. The solution also had a secondary benefit. It turned out that a Thetford coupler just fit over the Dupree 45 and was a hair too big for the pump. By installing the Thetford fitting on the Dupree fitting I now can use Thetford style fittings in a pinch.

Anyway, that's the physical hookup. For the electrical, I found a fuse panel in the adjoining bay already labeled and fused for macerator. It was as simple as pulling 10g wire to the water bay. Since the pump is not a perm install, I used a simple two way DC plug so that I could disconnect the pump. I used a 40 amp toggle switch. I thought about using a heavy duty relay, and would have if I were doing a permanent install.

The thread was originally about cost. Here is what I spent:

Pump 149.00 on Ebay
Wire compliments of Richard's garage
Toggle Switch 4.99
Discharge adapter for pump 1.79
Fitting for hose 2.99
Thetford adaptor 4.99
Three hose clamps 1.78

My out of pocket was 165.54

I will go to Northern Tool and get two 25 ft sections of 1" Discharge hose so that I can pump to the house. I had too much head pressure trying to pump using old garden hose.

That hose is 33 bucks a section. So if I add 66 to the total, that brings the total cost to 231.54, which is considerably less than the best prices I found on the packaged units.

In hindsight, I could not have used the packaged unit any way, since I did not have the space to mount it.
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:49 PM   #18
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richard, you will love the macerator.

good work.

tom
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:27 PM   #19
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Richard...what brand pump is that.....Jabsco?
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:18 PM   #20
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It's the FloJet. I only went with it because the OD of the pump inlet is very close to the ID of the discharge, so that cobbling up a transition piece would be easy. And it was easier than I thought.
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