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Old 11-04-2008, 09:50 PM   #1
chockwald
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Default Newell Classic Flourescent Light Fixtures

Does anyone owning a Newell Classic, or Vintage coach have a source for replacement flourescent light fixtures similar to the ones in these units?
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:04 PM   #2
Richard and Rhonda
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Clarke,

Can you post a picture?

Or you could take Tom's approach and redo the entire coach :-)
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard and Rhonda View Post
Clarke,

Can you post a picture?

Or you could take Tom's approach and redo the entire coach :-)
Hi Richard! Well, that's my next option. One of the fixtures went out, and I may have to update it to something that is available now. I struggle with the urge to keep everything as original as possible, but functional. Sometimes those two objectives cannot occupy the same space at the same time. I'll post a picture later this evening after I get home.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #4
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OK...here are two pix of the fixture.
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Cannondale Bad Boy
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:58 PM   #5
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It doesn't look broken. When you say "went out", do you mean just doesn't light up anymore with even a new bulb? Does the bulb flicker at all?

Most of the time all you need is a new ballast, that's the black box on the inside of the fixture. Take the ballast to home depot or lowes and try a new one. The purpose of the ballast is to blast the flourescent light with a burst of voltage to get the gas excited enough to light up.

If something else is amiss, maybe you can just buy a light fixture of the right length and cannibalize it to put the innards back into yours.
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Old 11-06-2008, 03:40 AM   #6
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btw, that is EXACTLY the same fixture i have in mine. a tidbit for you is never to turn the light on with no bulb in them. they will smoke and burn up....i promise.

when you find the parts, let us all know. i wonder if an rv supply has them. they are 12v.

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Old 11-06-2008, 06:11 AM   #7
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When say "went out", I mean when my wife turned it on last week she said it made sort of a "pop" sound, and went out. When I changed the bulb, nothing. Maybe the ballast is bad. I'll see if I can get one at Home Depot tomorrow, and report back.

Tom, haven't tried turning one on without the bulb yet, but give me time...LOL!
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Old 11-06-2008, 01:59 PM   #8
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hey,

if it was a loud pop, it is possible it is the ballast, but if you look up in there, there is a small circuit board. alot of times in circuit boards, a "pop" is a capacitor blowing. you might look at that board and see if all components look intact and not incredibly fried looking.

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Old 11-06-2008, 02:52 PM   #9
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Ah gee, I'm so dumb. The 12V thing went over my head. Forget Home Depot.

Look here http://store.solar-electric.com/12vodcbaforf.html

or buy a new one the right bulb size and cannibalize it http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...%20Thin%20Lite
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:05 PM   #10
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Interestingly, there appears to be NO circuit board in this fixture. More than likely it was the ballast. Anyway, I'm probably going to update to something newer that will fit the space. This is/was the Vanity light in the bedroom.

Nevertheless, if anyone has some spare fixtures like this (12 Volt, 8 Watt, single 12" bulb) let me know....
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:07 PM   #11
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I have very similar fixtures in my 1992. The new Thinline fixtures use a small internal ballast but are too wide to fit into the same space on the side of the fixture.
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:03 PM   #12
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ok, so another dumb comment by me. did you check the fuse?

tom
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:49 PM   #13
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Tom, yes I did check the fuse, and unfortunately, it is intact.
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1982 Newell 36’ DD 6V92 TA
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:21 PM   #14
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Another dumb question but did you pull the fuse and ohm it? I have seen what appeared to be good fuses that were open. I had one of my over the bed lights go out and I found two components on the circuit board that had overheated and were shorting together. I separated them, put electrical tape between them and so far, all is good.
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:09 PM   #15
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Hi Michael...no, I did not ohm it, but I will this evening....good suggestion....not a dumb question.
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1982 Newell 36’ DD 6V92 TA
2002 Thunderbird Retro
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Cannondale F600
2 Terra Trike Tadpoles
Intense 5.5 mountain bike
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:57 PM   #16
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I pulled the fuse and used my multi-meter on the ohm setting of 200k, and got a .9 reading. That is the "resistance" setting according to the user pamplet. It offered no "continuity" setting. Is that the correct setting to check continuity? I am really an illiterate when it comes to electrical terminology. The two other optional settings under "ohms" are 20k and 2k.
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1982 Newell 36’ DD 6V92 TA
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Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:47 PM   #17
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I would set the ohm scale to 2k to get the most accurate reading. Typically error is a percentage of full scale so you would be looking at 100 times the potential error. There should be very low resistance across a good fuse.
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:24 PM   #18
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Ok, 2k it is. What type of a reading should I be looking for? I have no idea, due to total lack of electrical knowledge, what I should be looking for. Will it be on a scale of 1 to 100, or 1 to 10???
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1982 Newell 36’ DD 6V92 TA
2002 Thunderbird Retro
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
Cannondale F600
2 Terra Trike Tadpoles
Intense 5.5 mountain bike
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:52 PM   #19
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I have the same lights in my 1991. There was one ceiling light that did not provide what I need. I replaced it with a Trucklite 80250c LED. the width is ok, but it is longer & required removing some wood in the ceiling. I tried taking a picture to show the difference, but it did not work out. I would estimate it provides 3x the light

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...2951&langId=-1

Not original, but effective

Gordon
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:54 PM   #20
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I would certainly like to see less than 10 ohms.
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