1993 Newell Coach Rotten Bathroom Sub Floor Replacement - Luxury Coach Lifestyles
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:30 PM   #1
folivier
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Default 1993 Newell Coach Rotten Bathroom Sub Floor Replacement

The PO sometime in the past added wood floors to the bathroom, bedroom, and front. He used a good quality product but evidently didn't replace the $20 toilet floor gasket! This past week I've been pulling out wet and rotten plywood. I've had to remove plywood down to the metal floor between the toilet and shower. My plans are to go back with solid layers of plywood in this area rather than using foam. This should give me a much more solid floor. I'm also using some products from rotdoctor.com CPES which is amazing how much is absorbed into the wood. This is an epoxy sealer which should prevent any future water damage. The dark areas on the plywood are from wet areas (thoroughly dried out now) after applying CPES (which darkens the plywood). After I have the floor rebuilt I'll probably put in a high quality vinyl floor tile, or ceramic. Haven't decided yet.
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:15 PM   #2
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Forrest, looks like you will be earning a little sweat equity. Just thinking about how Newell used plywood vs. particle board or OSB like most manufacturers is another statement of faith in Newell quality.

I would recommend marine grade plywood anywhere in a Newell. Don't know if your year used a 5 ply or 7 ply? I have only used a 7 ply on any replacements (much stronger).

Ken
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:14 PM   #3
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In most areas I'm having to replace there is the metal frame, then 1/2" plywood, 1" foam, and 3/4" plywood, then the ugly vinyl Newell uses for a vapor barrier. Due to the way I had to cut out the plywood I plan to not use foam and go with 1/2, 1/2, 1/2, and 3/4" plywood for the top layer. It'll be more work fitting the pieces but it should be very solid if I overlap the seams.
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2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:18 AM   #4
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That sure brings back memories of repalcing the floor.

I found that the Dremel Multi-Max really helps in cutting up the floor sections. it has the ability to cut in close without cutting things you don't want to...
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Old 06-05-2010, 01:15 PM   #5
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Forest,

i had to do the same thing below the driver and passenger window on the floor under the seats and the sidewall. i have posted that elsewhere. for all of you, alot of this kind of damage is hidden by wallpaper and carpeting and tile. for mine, the seam where the fiberglass front cap and the aluminum body panel met had leaked inside. originally they had put some kind of tape on it, but that had dried out and over the years water had seeped in and rotted the plywood.

i did as you are suggesting underneath the seats only. that is 4 layers of plywood for strength so the seats didnt compress the plywood and foam sandwich. however i only did it under the seats and redid the sandwich of foam and plywood on the other areas to maintain the soundproofing. in the bathroom you should be find doing that too. i also put a rubber soundproofing mat on that is also a anti fracture membrane for tile and a waterproofing membrane. in fact, i put that everwhere on the floor before recarpeting and putting granite down.

part of the reason for the foam is sound and vibration isolation, especially on top of that metal pan floor you are seeing. btw, that doesnt go all the way across the floor, only in about 1/3 of the way. i am not sure you need extra strength in the bathroom but up to you.

i posted about my bathroom toilet story and it was no ones fault but my own. when i put in my granite floor, it was higher than the previous tile floor and the foam toilet seal didnt compress enough. it didnt leak enough to do anything other than give a slight smell so i bought new floor flange and put a hard rubber spacer underneath it to raise it up and then use a new foam gasket. yea, the correct gasket on my sealand toilet is foam and not wax.

i know it looks terrible, but it is just work. i must say we really like our granite floors we put in.

have fun!
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Old 06-05-2010, 01:50 PM   #6
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Thanks. The reason I'm going with all plywood is the way I had to cut it out. I don't think I will have good support with the foam. With plywood I can alternate my overlaps and have the strength I need. Anyway just picked up the plywood but won't start back until Monday. Looked at cork flooring and may go back with that. Nice patterns, nice features, but we'll decide later.
Really don't think not having foam in bathroom will be a problem for sound, that 8v92 will soak up any sound and vibrations!
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2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:30 PM   #7
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i agree for the bathroom sound isnt a problem or vibration.

what i did where i had to cut out a large section was to make new ribs out of two pieces of 1/2" plywood glued and screwed together.

i did the ribs closer together than what newell had done.

i am going to put a wood floor in a friends coach and have been looking at flooring. i looked at cork yesterday and at least the samples i looked at would easily crease, so run a fingernail across them to see what happens.
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:35 PM   #8
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Been reading up on cork, they claim it has memory so any creases or dents are supposed to pop back out in a few hours. I like the softness and warmth especially since I seldom have shoes on inside.
Either way gotta decide if I want to use glue down or floating type. Never done floors before so this will be a learning experience.
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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
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Old 06-06-2010, 01:07 AM   #9
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when i was at home depot thursday i ran my fingernail across a sample piece of cork flooring.

today i went back and looked at it and after two days the crease was still there with no difference.

i really like the feel and look of the cork flooring and have researched it alot as well, but i do have my concerns.

i would get a couple of pieces and torture them and see how they come back.
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:54 AM   #10
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I would think twice about using cork flooring in the bathroom. It is very condusive to absorbing moisture and any yearn splatters on the cork would be a real problem.
I agree it is an attractive floor covering but not for bathrooms.
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:03 PM   #11
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Will start putting in the new (epoxy sealed) plywood tomorrow. I checked the shower and found a leak by the glass door where the formica glue had separated. Used a heat gun to soften the glue and (carefully) pryed up the formica, let it dry, injected CPES epoxy sealer. After that cured I filled the area with an epoxy putty and clamped the formica down. Just checked it and it looks great, siliconed it and will check for leaks later today. On another note I am thinking of putting a radiant floor heater under the wood floor, these 2 products are designed for use under engineered wood: http://www.warmlyyours.com/radiant-h...eated-carpets/ http://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heat/
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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
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"You don't have a soul. You are a soul, you have a body." C.S.Lewis


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Old 06-13-2010, 01:30 PM   #12
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This is starting to sound like a Tommy project.......
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:03 PM   #13
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The radiant floor is only around $200. I figure why not? The bathroom heater wakes me up everytime the fan kicks on. Don't plan to ever do this again. Should have it finished for Santa Fe. Just booked week of 17th. Let me know if you change dates.
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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
2013 RZR 570LE

"You don't have a soul. You are a soul, you have a body." C.S.Lewis


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Old 07-26-2010, 03:59 PM   #14
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Finally finished installing the floor. Took Cindy a couple weeks to decide and about 3 weeks for it to come in. We went with the cork. Really pleased with the look and feel. We decided to spring for Wicanders brand cork. They manufacture the flooring in the USA and the quality is definately a big step above the other brands we looked at.
This 1st picture is the Thermofloor heater. Can't wait to try it out in Santa Fe.
The 2nd is the floor.
The 3rd is the new thermostat for the floor, the sensor is under the floor.
The 4th is vinyl base molding I used at the passenger side of the bed because the wallpaper got messed up removing the old floor, and also on the shower.
Just need to do a final cleaning and I'm done with this project, finally!
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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
2013 RZR 570LE

"You don't have a soul. You are a soul, you have a body." C.S.Lewis


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Old 07-26-2010, 04:04 PM   #15
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i am on the hook to put in a new wood floor in my secretary's coach. (she asked and i said yes). i have asked them to consider cork, but one sample piece i looked at dented and creased and didnt come back to shape and not sure i like it. so i will be very interested in how it turns out. for theirs it would be for the entry and area in front of the couches. they have dogs as well.

tom
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:13 PM   #16
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The Wicanders I used has a thicker surface area and uses a "Xtreme WRT Finish: A ceramic micro-bead finish 4x more wear resistant than other finishes in its class"
Which has a matte finish. Don't know how it would stand up to dogs. The reason we went with cork was Cindy's dad put in cork flooring at their house back in the 1950's. Still has the original cork in the hall. I was amazed at the condition with 6 kids running through the house! But it does dent and could be torn by doggie nails.
Efloors.com had the best price (delivery cost is the biggest thing).
Actually the price for 60 square feet wasn't much more. Also Wicanders has a 4 3/8" plank which made it much easier to install with the curves and angles.

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1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486
2004 Chevy Silverado Z71
2013 RZR 570LE

"You don't have a soul. You are a soul, you have a body." C.S.Lewis


https://www.luxurycoachlifestyle.com/...php?albumid=14
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:41 PM   #17
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Looks great Forest....
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:14 PM   #18
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Forrest the floor came out Awesome! I really like it. Great job!

Don't worry about Tom, hes just a wee bit jealous.

Only kidding Tom!
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