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04-27-2009, 08:13 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Wiper Motor Issues
I am having an issue with the passenger side wiper. It has lost it's mind. Seriously, I first thought the arm had come loose from the post and that explained why it went to the side and stayed there. So, I repositioned and retightened. That only resulted in it performing slowly and erratically. If it gets too far to the side it stays there. And when it stops it stops in the middle of the windshield. Sometimes it will travel all the way over the center strip. I suspect that either the brushes in the DC motor aren't making good contact, or there is something slipping or broken in the mechanical device that causes the rotational motion of the motor to translate into back and forth movement.
I'll be taking the motor out as soon as I get a chance to see what's up, but in the meantime I thought I would ask you if you had experienced anything like this, what you did, and if you had to source a new motor, from whence it came.
Thanks
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Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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04-27-2009, 09:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,375
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i know michael has replaced both of his wipers and he will pipe in but i believe they were over a grand for the pair. i am making the assumption from your comments that you tighted the nut on the front that if loose would allow them to slip around like you are describing?
tom
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04-27-2009, 09:48 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stanley,KS
Posts: 45
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wiper motor
My RV repairman finally had to replace the motor on my left one when it simply would not work any longer. I paid no where near the price Michael must have paid. The RV guy found a company outside of Atlanta that stocked them for the '87. Don't know whether yours would be the same, but if it is, I can go back and look up the repair bill.
Let me know.
Larry P.
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04-27-2009, 09:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,375
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i believe the 87 had air powered wipers. the 90's and up are electric motors.
i sure hope there is a cheap supply for them. it would be nice for all of us to know where.
tom
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04-27-2009, 10:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,558
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Richard, I had problems with BOTH my wipers sticking and moving VERY slowly when I first bought my coach. The previous owner had the drivers motor rebuilt with little change. After a year or two I just couldn't take it so I ordered a new pair of units from Newell. They are sold as an assembly with the motor, gear, arms and blades. They are made by Bosch and I paid over $1,500 counting shipping for the pair.
In retrospect, I suspect I wasted much of that money as the new ones worked better but were still not great. Here is what I think is happening based on my analysis (your results may vary):
1) One of the arms on each blade attaches to the motor, the other attaches to a rotating shaft. That shaft is somewhat exposed to the elements and gets corrosion on it making it difficult to turn. That puts an undesirable load on the motor. Adding penetrating oil to that shaft on a routine basis seems to help.
2) The wires going to the motors may not be large enough and voltage loss could be an issue even though there is a relay in front of the passenger's seat for the wipers. I find that since my headlights are typically on when the wipers are running, my voltage on the chassis batteries isn't as good as I would like (12.8-13.0) with the engine running. I may have a voltage regulator problem (that you likely don't have) but I find that running the generator when I need the wipers brings the chassis voltage up to 13.0 - 13.4 and the wipers work much better. When I have the time, I will likely see about resizing the wires from the relay to the motors.
One thing the new wiper units did solve was the wipers going off the side due to slippage on the shafts. If the attachment nuts are left somewhat loose, they can strip down the ribbing on the shafts and they will slip. If they are over-tightened, they tend to bind.
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04-28-2009, 02:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Thanks guys, it may be a few days before I get it out. Thanks Michael, I will also check the voltage at the motor. I did notice a ton of corrosion on the dummy shaft. Looks like an o ring is supposed to seal it from water but time takes it's toll. I did remove the o ring and squirt some lube in the opening.
I hear something slipping, at first I thought it was the wiper arm slipping on the shaft, but I visually confirmed that is not happening, so it's something internal. Oh boy, and it's in such a fun access place. I am just laughing cause I know if I tear the console and panels out of the way to get to the motor, I need to go ahead and fix the vacuum actuators on the dash HVAC plenum. One project begats another.
__________________
Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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05-11-2009, 11:47 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Ok, it's fixed. I did not have to tear anything out to get to the motor. The problem was that there is an arm that attaches to the motor, and the arm was loose. The arm is part of a mechanism that converts the rotational motion of the motor into back and forth rotation. The arm is splined onto the shaft, and tightened with a nut. The nut has yellow paint on it in the photo.
The reason the arm is loose is another story. One of the two shafts on the front mounting plate is a dummy shaft. Both of mine were practically siezed, and the picture shows why. I cleaned them up really well, greased them, replaced the sealing o ring, and circlip. Works great now, but those dummy shafts have a lot of side load on them, and I will be looking for a replacement shaft and bushing. The shaft was originally chrome plated, and the bushing looks to be bronze or oilite. I was able to press out the old bushing, but I could not find a replacement locally. The shaft is sealed by an o ring with a washer on top. There is a circular clip that slides into the groove to hold the arm in place. I bought replacement o rings and clips at Home Depot
__________________
Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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05-11-2009, 07:06 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,558
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Yep, that dummy shaft with that much corrosion would make it really hard for the motor to overcome. Let us know if you come up with a source for replacement parts as I suspect that is going to be an ongoing issue. Of course the damper and saltier the environment the coach is kept in the greater the issue.
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05-25-2009, 11:24 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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Do you think the splines/shaft for the driver (not rotating) part replaceable? My passenger wiper stopped working and I think the spline/shaft or the female part on the wiper is worn. I'll look at it closer now that it's home and not raining on us. Hoping I can just replace parts. Before it started slipping and stopped it was working properly. Thanks.
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05-25-2009, 11:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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OK, here's the latest. Nothing is ever simple is it.
I found that McMaster Carr stocked metric oilite bushings. The id of the bushing is 12 mm, and the od is 15 mm, length 20 mm. Except I found out that wouldn't work. The 12 mm fits the shaft perfectly, however the hole in the plate is slightly tight for the 15 mm od, and too big for a 14mm od. I press fit one of the new bushings in just fine but if squeezed the id a little and the shaft wouldn't go in. Luckily I had bought a couple of extras. So I took the Dremel to the plate and enlarged the hole just enough to get a good press fit. I put it in with locktite just to make sure it doesn't spin. Oh yeah, and 20 mm is too long, it is really more like 18, but a hand milling machine (hacksaw and file) fixed that. The bushings are less than two bucks each, so other than my labor, it was a pretty easy fix. Like I said earlier, I put on new o rings and retaining clips on the shaft while I had it out. I found them at Home Depot.
__________________
Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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05-29-2009, 10:57 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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I just finished "doing" both my wipers. Thanks Richard for the advice. Total cost $2.78 for 2 clips, 2 o-rings, 2 brass washers, and some emery cloth. Oh and a 'lil blood for the traditional blood sacrifice! Did you know the studs for the washers are about hairline height?
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05-30-2009, 01:24 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 91
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What's a hairline?
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Tim and Laura
2000, 45', Single Slide
Coach 541
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05-30-2009, 01:29 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,558
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If you walk into the exposed wiper posts, they hit you in the head just about where you hair starts. Hurts like crazy and bleeds like crazy.
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05-30-2009, 11:18 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Forrest,
Did you find the the that the motor shaft was slipping relative to the wiper mechanism? Or was there some other problem for the wiper not behaving?
And, Prestadude, I got your joke. Michael has hair, I don't. It's all about perspective :-)
__________________
Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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05-30-2009, 03:28 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,558
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Yeah, sometimes I take things too literally instead of looking for the humor.
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05-30-2009, 04:21 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 1,543
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Michael, it is good to still have an obvious hairline at our respective ages.
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05-30-2009, 05:13 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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Richard, I didn't pull off the motors. I was able to clean up and lube the dummy shaft without removing the motors. They seem to operate properly now. (I try to limit my blood letting to 1 project at a time)
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05-31-2009, 02:07 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Huntington WV
Posts: 1,041
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Steve wanted the motor number from Bosch. I thought I would post it for everyone.
See the pics.
__________________
__________________
Richard Rhonda Ty and Alex Entrekin
1995 Newell # 390 DD Series 60, Allison World Trans
Subaru Outback toad
CoMotion Tandem
Often wrong, but seldom in doubt
Rhonda's chronicle https://wersquared.wordpress.com/
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