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Old 02-13-2009, 11:23 PM   #1
encantotom
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Red face Dash heating A/C controls fix

hi all,

i have pushbutton style control panel on the dash for the heater/vent/ac etc. my pushbuttons for the heat and defrost position stopped activating the fans. i had also had some issue with controlling the heater heat.

so, in typical fashion, i take things apart. the lever that slides a cable on the heater control slide valve down by the heater core had broken and the slide valve was stuck in full on. that meant that in certain conditions (slide lever slightly on to activate the microswitch that turns on the coolant pumps and solenoid valves) then the heater core was receiving hot coolant while the dash air was trying to cool. explains why i usually didnt have more real cool air even though i had the compressor replaced last summer.

so, thanks to richard, i took the cable out (easier said than done). it also had two vacuum lines wire tied to it all the way to the plenum behind the genny blower in the front passenger bay. so, i tied a string to it and pulled it out from the drivers area and got the cable out.

richard gave me a site that had 80" boden cables that i ordered and got yesterday with the right eyelets on each end and the plastic hook that attaches to the lever on the dash unit. about 60 bucks.

btw, the dash control panel is a chrysler. for sure used in mid 80's to 1992 or so ramcharger. the first few years used all chrome buttons and after that they were black. newell had modified it some as i said by putting microswitch on the slide cable lever and some other mounting mods. i found one on ebay for 50 bucks, but ended up not buying it.

the switch unit that is attached to the control panel is a common delco switch and vacuum control unit. i found a new old stock (NOS) one on ebay believe it or not for $10 dollars shipped. it was for a 1976 chrysler cordova. a buddy of mine took the old switch apart and there was arcing inside that had destroyed the terminals to the heater and defroster position. the new one ohms out fine. you can see on the white piece that has the wires and terminals on it that they are burned. the new one went right on. you can see the cable hanging loose in one of the pictures and the new cable. you can also see the red microswitch that newell added on that is activated by the lever arm moving.

the new switch i got has all black buttons instead of chrome but no one will know but me and you guys....

so i will slap it all back in tomorrow and it should work fine.

the boden cable is shown here.

http://www.evanstempcon.com/servicep...ullID=RV218377

if you contact evanstempcon, they will give you the distributor closest to you.

below are a few pictures of the pieces.

i will add a few more as i finish the job.

tom
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:28 PM   #2
encantotom
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i installed the new switch and cable yesterday. the heater works like a champ. only thing is the boden cable wasnt exactly the right length, so the slide lever only goes over about 3/4 of the way when the slide valve to pass water to the front heater core is completely open. no big deal.

the vacuum lines i had to repull i must have put a kink in them as the defrost and vent doesnt activate now, so i need to put a vacuum pump on them to see where the problem is. easy to do. if they are kinked i will just get some new lines and run them. i left a pull line from the dash to the plenum in case i needed to ever run anything else.

what started all this was to find out why my coolant wouldnt heat my hot water heater. i believe the hoses were reversed from what i could trace out for the hosing diagram. i switched the hoses. man, that is easier said than done as even though i double clamped off the hoses and released the pressure at the radiator, i still had a mess of coolant come out. it went everywhere. especially when i couldnt get one of the hoses off, so i had to cut it. i got it done and had to add about 3 gallons of antifreeze to the radiator.

i ran at fast idle for 20-30min and the hot water heater was starting to heat the water with the heat exchanger from the coolant. the water temp was about 55 degrees, so i am guessing that it would take a while to really heat the water. it raised the water temp about 15-20 degrees i estimate.

in preparation and hope of it now heating the water, i bought a watts 70a tempuring valve to control the output temp of the hot water heater. michael says his get wayyyy too hot when heated with the engine. i got it for 20 bucks shipped on ebay and it arrived yesterday. so i need to figure out how to hard plumb it in now. not much room there to do it and i have solid copper plumbing, but will figure out how. i dont want the grandkids to get burned.

checking the coolant level reminded me the sight glass on the radiator (simple and cool feature) is not very visable (like stained from the inside) so been shopping for one. it is a 1" NPT male sight plug. they are more pricey than i would have expected.

later

tom
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:31 PM   #3
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Tom, my sight glass is also stained. You might be able to remove it and clean it from the inside. Although mine is stained, it is still easy to see when the coolant is up to the level of the glass.

Let us know how well the tempuring valve works out. I may decide to install one.
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