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Old 03-04-2008, 02:23 AM   #1
hlfdzn
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Default 8v92 slobber tubes?

I'm tired of cleaning both my toad and radiator of the oil bypass. I've read the Bluebird forums on the slobber tubes that others have created collector containers for, but haven't been able to find said tubes on my engine. The only source I've found is what seems to be a cyliner of some sorts that is located directly aft of my engine oil pan. It has a drain in the bottom and that seems to be where my bypass is originating from, but I haven't found any type of drain tubes. Do any of you have this container on yours? I just want to find a way to eliminate or at least significantly reduce the oil bypass output.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:36 AM   #2
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Paul, many of the 8V92's in other motorcoaches just had slobber tubes dumping into the air stream under the engine. Newell ran the slobber tubes into the canister you are referencing for collection. Sounds like the petcock has been left open or worked its way open on your coach. If the petcock is left open, the effect is the same as having open slobber tubes. Verify if the petcock is open and if so, close it. If it is closed but still leaking, open it part way, then tighten the nut above the petcock.

When the motorhome has been run and warmed up, the canister should be drained into a small bucket or drip pan. The petcock on the bottom should then be closed. Depending on the mileage and amount of blowby oil you are getting, draining the canister every 6 to 12 months should be adequate.
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Old 03-04-2008, 02:13 PM   #3
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That's probably why I'm having so much oil blowing out, there isn't any type of a petcock on the canister, just a hole. I'm wondering if a previous owner pulled it off and I just need to reinstall one, or was it broken off. I'll know shortly...

That brings up another question, how much oil do you add while driving? I'm finding that it's about 1 gal per 1000 miles.
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Old 03-04-2008, 02:40 PM   #4
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If there is no petcock, it was either removed, not tightened and worked its way out or was over-tightened and stripped the threads so it was able to fall out. Hopefully it was not the last option.

A gallon of oil per thousand miles is somewhat on the high side even for a two stroke. If you are filling the oil to the full mark each time, you might find that your oil consumption is reduced if you try to keep the oil level 1/2 way between full and add. There should be 1 gallon between the two marks. Adding a 1/2 gallon at a time when it gets to the add mark frequently results in less total oil usage than going all the way to full but it does involve adding oil more frequently.
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:27 PM   #5
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Our nice weather is supposed to end today, so I'll be back under there trying to wrap this up. I'll let you know how it goes.

When I was at the factory last year, I thought they said that a gallon every 1000 miles was typical. I was reading either the Busnut or Wanderlodge site, someone had said that was high and now you said the same thing. That really concerned me so I just called Newell. They confirmed that it is normal for a gallon each 1000 miles or so.

I tend to top off the engine as often as possible to full so will back it off and see if that lessens the amount of oil used. I think I read that same recommendation on one of the other sites.

When I had the oil changed, they used the Rotella, but my resevoir is still full with Exxon XD-3. I know in the old days they said never to mix different manufactorers oils but is that still the case?
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:48 PM   #6
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I certainly would not consider a gallon per 1000 miles to be alarming. When I fill my oil to the full mark, I probably use 1 gallon per 1000 miles. When I keep it one to two quarts low, I cut that by about a third or more. It should say something that Newell installed a 4+ gallon supplemental oil reservoir.

When I blew the gasket between the head and the blower, I was losing about a gallon of oil every 60 miles. Now that is excessive.

As long as the two oils are the same weight and both meets the CF-2 standard, I would not be concerned about mixing brands. As they say, a two-stroke is constantly changing its own oil.
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:39 PM   #7
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This last week dring another dry warm spell, I crawled under the coach and spent some time removing all the wire screen guard so I could see clearly under the engine. With the screen out, I can now clearly see what the configuration is under there. It appears the two main slobber tubes are the metal tubes that run down the rear from the valve cover. The canister that is behine and below the oil pan is catching oil from another source. The canister drain has no threads but is the type that seems to be an overflow style i.e. it sticks up into the canister about 3/4 and only drains when the level reaches that height.

After reading some of the other forums on this, I'm thinking of cutting the two metal slobber tubes just above the shelf that's above the batteries and making a capped 3' PVC collector for each side with fitting to put the tubes in on one end and a breather at the other end. I'll tap in a petcock drain at the lowest point.

I don't know what to do about the container as I'm not sure how much oil really drips from that location.

Do any of you have similiar or other types of oil bypass collectors on your rigs? I'd sure love to see/hear about other examples.

Thanks,
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:52 PM   #8
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Paul, I will try to remember next time I am taking the coach out for drive to get the rear end in the air and take some photos of the canister and tubing. That could be a couple of weeks. My current location slopes to the front of the coach significantly so the front is up several inches and and the rear of the coach is down almost all the way.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:23 AM   #9
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This is called the airbox drain catch. The plug in the bottom of the 'crap can' is open because the pressure needs to be vented. The crap can catches the blowby at idle, when the RPM's increase the pressure builds and the breather valves are forced shut. The lines between the crankcase and the crap can will have a spring loaded valve, this NEEDS to be cleaned every oil change. Remove the breather valves and you can blow thru with compressed air, if you use to much pressure the valve closes. Detroit release a service procedure with a diagram of this airbox drain catch.

18SP284—Install Air Box Drain Canister Kit 23507154
- Thanks to the Wanderlodge Yahoo forum for making this doc available in the database!
- Would be nice to have a place to save these types of docs on this site!
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:40 AM   #10
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The Yahoo WanderlodgeForum also had a thread titled "Slobber Tube Fixed The Right Way!" from a member that installed a kit from Racor to solve the crankcase tube venting oil vapor. The Racor kit number is CCV6000 and retails around $400.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:37 AM   #11
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Great information Troy. Click Here for another link to the document you listed.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:35 PM   #12
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Thanks for the great info Troy & Michael. After seeing the Air Box Drain (ABD) Canister pdf, I removed the drain spout and drained out the oil that was in it. I'll have to cut a hole in the engine rock screen to give me easier access in the future. Also removed and cleaned out both check valves.

After performing the above and then checking out the Racor CCV-6000, I'm left with the question: What exactly are we referring to as slobber tubes? The tubes that run into the ABD canister originate on the engine block, and the tubes that the CCV-6000 refers to are the two that originate from the valve cover and are currently vented forward of the engine down to the ground. From looking over the underneath of my engine, both sets have oil residue that comes out of them.

Since the ABD Canister appears to resolve the one set of tubes, I'd like to put something on the second set. The dust from the Alaska Hwy when combined with the oil blowby can clog the radiator quickly. The Racor are almost $300 each and you need two of them, plus I won't be able to get them before leaving on Thursday. Anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks,
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:16 AM   #13
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Michael, I'm interested in were this canister is on my coach?* We are on our way home from Atlanta to Calif. We have at present gone 27905 since buying. I have gone about 4000 miles then adding 1 gallon. I use Delvac from the factory. But at Indy* this year I was told this engine was complety rebuilt. One of the mechanics and I went under the coach to look for leaks. Let me know. If the weather will get a little warmer we plan a trip to Miami. It's warm at home, and we had snow last Sat morn. Ran gen for 5 days. Had all electric heaters going. We love this big humr. And this is the first coach the wife has ever driven more than 50 miles

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Old 03-12-2008, 04:52 AM   #14
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Paul, I haven't been able to get under the rear of my coach but I don't recall seeing any lines that just dump out under the coach. The slobber tubes that go into my catch can are the only ones I am aware of. I may get surprised when I get the rear end up in the air but I have been under there several times and just don't recall ever seeing any open tubes at the front of the engine.

My catch can is somewhat different than the one you and Troy described. Mine has a petcock on the bottom and a tube with an air release/overflow unit near the top. I will try to get a photo of it tomorrow if I can but it is hard to get my camera into the space between the tire and the wheelwell.

Larry, my canister is lined up with the rear of the tire on the driver's side tag axle. It is located between the rear driver's side air bag and the driver's side of the transmission.

Glad the Jeri is enjoying the coach as much as you are Larry.
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Old 03-15-2008, 02:17 AM   #15
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Here is a photo of the Slobber Can on my coach. This photo was taken from behind the driver's tag axle looking toward the transmission.



The slobber can has the petcock on the bottom and the air vent coming off the left side near the top of the can. The two lines on the upper left of the can go to the engine airbox drains.
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Old 03-26-2008, 03:17 PM   #16
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OK Paul, yesterday I took my Newell for a run. I took it to a wash rack that has a significant incline and hung the rear of the coach over the peak of the incline so I had some room under the rear of the coach.

When you can get the light up under the rear of the coach, there are two large tubes just dumping down into the air. These are located one on each side of the engine about 4" to the rear of the starting point of the mesh under-engine screen.

This photo was taken on the passengers side of the engine. The starter motor gear is directly beside the slobber tube.


As I haven't cleaned this area in the two years and 27,000 miles I have owned the coach, it is not a major source of oil but it is significant enough that now I have a new project. It isn't the easiest place to get to with the screen under the engine but I have now added this to my list of things to do.

So, in addition to the airbox drain canister, it looks like we do need to add a way to trap the oil coming from the two large slobber tubes.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:39 AM   #17
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Hello Michael,

Yep, those are the tubes I was referring to...

Before leaving VA, went to Lowes and picked up some 4" PVC with a y and cleanout on one end and another y and a cap on the other. Looking at cutting the hose about even with the shelf and then feeding it into the one y, but not using a clamp or anything just inserting it. On the other end of the y, either putting a nice size qauze type filter or taking the remaining hose and running them down towards the rear of the coach. Key issue to avoid is that the venting could be blocked and back pressure occuring.

Was planning on building and installing the setup while up in MN but this was preempted by filter/rad issues. Hopefully will come up with something during this trip. If so, will take a photo and email you.

Let me know what ideas you come up with in the meantime...

One thing, when Wally took me down to C&J's I asked the owner about the tubes. He said that normally they don't weep much until the engine is starting to get a little tired by having more blowby past the rings.

Big question is what does "tired" mean as far as life span...or how long til rebuild/rering is a necessity.
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Old 03-27-2008, 04:23 AM   #18
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Paul, I don't know how much oil you are getting out of your slobber tubes but I don't think that unless you are getting quite a bit that your engine is in danger of needed major work for an extended period time. Remember that trucks that have 8V92's are putting 100,000+ miles per year on their rigs so by comparison we are just putting around the neighorhood.
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