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Old 04-02-2011, 02:39 AM   #21
folivier
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I guess this is why we all need a "recommended practices" or whatever if we ever need to be towed. That is my biggest fear that the tow driver will screw up things worse!
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:41 AM   #22
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"..and taken up aquariums...."

Matt....I am still laughing....
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:56 PM   #23
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Jeff and Pam, tell me more about your insurance that covered the cost of your interesting mishap (interesting for us, terrible for you). I don't think my insurance would cover the initial mechanical failure but damage from towing would be covered. Your insurance covered the mechanical failure? If so, let's hear more about your coverage and insurance company.
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:14 PM   #24
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Tim, I have been wondering about that, too. I am an insurance agent, and generally the insurance companies consider a structural, or mechanical failure to be "wear and tear", unless it can be linked some road hazard that was run into, or over causing the damage. I'm pretty sure the tow truck damage would be covered by either the policy on the coach, or the policy of the tow tow truck driver (negligence). Typically "wear and tear is excluded", so I'm curious to hear how/why the insurance company decided to pay for that.
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:44 AM   #25
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Just another view on towing a Newell. About two years ago we were returning from a cross country trip to Florida and about 85 miles from home when a piston failed. Needless to say we ended up with both sides of our Series 60 with big openings. It also took out the air compressor as well as the hydraulic filter and pump. We definitely were going to need a tow. The second wrecker was sure he could haul the coach. I had my doubts but we were about 6 hours into the ordeal so I consented to let him try. We were on the shoulder of I-5 and traffic was heavy, so I told him that he could tow the coach the 1/4 of a mile to the first exit without disconnecting the drive shaft. Safety being the primary issue of getting off a steep hill and into a truck stop parking. Sounds like a good plan, right? Wrong. The first problem came to light when the tow truck tried to make a right turn off the freeway. He couldn't make the turn. There wasn't enough weight on the truck front axle to make the turn. They called out a low boy and hauled the coach home. The lesson learned is DON'T let any one try to tow a three axle Newell. Use a low boy that unhooks from the tractor and will flatten out to a very shallow angle. Ideally the coach should be winched on as this method is easier to control rather than trying to drive. By the way I have AAA insurance and they have treated me very favorably and I can recommend them without any reservation.
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Old 04-03-2011, 06:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard and Rhonda View Post
Larry,

Can you take a picture?
I'll do my best when I get to the coach this week.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:22 AM   #27
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Default Do not lift here

I have attached a picture that shows were not to let a wrecker service attach their hooks. There are a couple bolts inside the channel frame that keep if from sliding out. They will not hold the entire weight of the coach!
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:26 PM   #28
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Default How To Tow A Newell

I would like to see a post from John Clark on the proper way to tow a Newell. I realize that different models may have different towing requirements, so it may be a long post but I think it is something that most Newell owners would like to see.

What kind of wrecker should be called? Low Boy, etc.

How the wrecker should hook up the front or the back in order not to sustain any damage.

Should they use cable or chain?

Should the drive shaft be disconnected to put it on a low boy wrecker or just put the coach in neutral?

Should the axle(s) be removed?

There seems to be a great deal of interest in this subject, and I am sure that we can all benefit from such a post.

Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuga View Post
I would like to see a post from John Clark on the proper way to tow a Newell. I realize that different models may have different towing requirements, so it may be a long post but I think it is something that most Newell owners would like to see.

Thanks.
Tuga,
I agree completely. Hoping I will never need a tow is probably not what I should be doing. If you would like I will be happy to forward your suggestion to John along with a link to this thread. I did reread my owner's manaul and the subject is not covered there.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #30
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Default towed info

Not to jump ship,,, but if you log on to wanderlodge owners forum there is a complete list of "to do's" prior and during towing... Also a complete section on being towed out of sticky situations. Great and funny reading...

Also after further looking at the picture... I'm not sure the section that is broken is actually the FRAME. It looks more like some sort of axle support or swing arm... which could happen if wheel fell into some sort of hole?

Anyone, confirm that the broken part is the coach FRAME.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussWhite View Post
Tuga,
I agree completely. Hoping I will never need a tow is probably not what I should be doing. If you would like I will be happy to forward your suggestion to John along with a link to this thread. I did reread my owner's manaul and the subject is not covered there.
Russ
That would be great Russ. I think that John Clarke is the go to guy here.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:52 PM   #32
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If any one is interested in reading about and seeing pictures of a front loading low boy use the link. This particular trailer is a little short, but they come longer, just couldn't find photos of longer one. http://www.chassisking.com/products/low-boy-trailers/50-ton-low-boy-trailer

Here is another link showing a bus being loaded. Give you a good idea of what it will take to tow a Newell. http://www.traileze.com/TE80DG-Bus.html
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:24 PM   #33
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Rheavn, thanks for the links although I experienced severe pucker just watching the loading and unloading videos. I think I would probably pass out if I had to do the same thing for real.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:30 PM   #34
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I decided to call Newell about towing. I spoke to Creslie Clark and here is what he told me.

TOWING A NEWELL

Request a 50 Ton wrecker w/T bar. The T bar slides under the front of the Newell and nylon straps are put around the front wheels. Then the T bar lifts up the front of the coach off of the ground.

Next, get the wrecker driver to disconnect the drive shaft completely and tie it off to the side so the engine idling won’t bother any thing.

If the engine can idle let it idle to provide air to the brakes. If the engine can’t idle get the wrecker to run an air line to the back of the Newell and connect it to the shop air connection in the engine room passenger side. The wrecker needs to have an air compressor. Tape the air hose to the side of the Newell.

The key to success is to request and use a good wrecker. I don't think I would use a low boy wrecker. I would wait for a 50 Ton wrecker w/a T bar.

Like a friend of mine says, "If you're going to be a bear, be a grizzley."
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:39 PM   #35
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Tuga,
From experience get a front loading low boy. There is no way my trailer hitch would not drag when the driver raises the front of the coach. Also do you want an air line taped to the side of your coach. It will chafe & show when done--I know it happened. Sorry to disagree with Newell, but I don't see where a T-bar wrecker will work without causing some damage. I was able to use a T-bar wrecker on my Country Coach, but there was a lot more ground clearance in the rear.

JMHO...........................

PS: Tim, If you do not pucker when you're being towed it can only be because it has happened too many times!
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:12 PM   #36
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Steve,

If your engine can not, run how will you get air to hold your brakes open? I wouldn't relish the idea of having an air line run down the side of my coach but what else could you do?

Also, the air line will keep the air bags pumped up so that your rear end could ride about 4" higher. I will admit that our Newells do run low but I think we could increase the clearance by using the HWH leveling feature.

Creslie's suggestions will work only if the rear of the coach is in tack. The problem that happened to the 1996 Newell (I believe it was Summersgal) was damage to the rear. In that case I would call for a low boy.

Creslie sounded like the majority of the time Newell recommends the 50 Ton T-bar wrecker.

It will be interesting to hear John Clarke's take on this thread.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:47 PM   #37
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I'm sure it is not wise on my part to disagree with Newell. I'm sure they have seen many coaches towed in. Using a front load low boy, they will winch your coach up and keeping it aired up won't be necessary once it is loaded. I sure wish Newell had put a air connection under the front as that would sure take away the running an air line the length of the coach. I'd sure like to talk with some one that has successfully used a T-bar wrecker. The last person I know of that used a T-bar wrecker to tow a Newell received damage to the front of their coach. Didn't get to talk with him so it may have been tow driver error.
The sad part of this thread is that I went 25 years without ever having a coach towed. Since 2001 I have been towed four times. I'm hoping the Newell changes my luck!
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:59 PM   #38
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i do have an air hookup in the bay in front of my drivers side front wheel. it has a pressure gauge in it in this picture.

i just had the gauge in when i was checking pressures on the new compressor i put in.

tom
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:29 AM   #39
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Hey Tom, did you add that front connector?
I might look at mine and maybe add a connector.
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:05 AM   #40
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They came to my coach with a truck with a T Bar and it took him less that 5 minutes to addmit that he could not tow it because of the way it was built both from the front or the rear. He stated that his truck could lift and tow the coach with no problem as far as weight goes but damage would result from the towing.
Putting my coach on the low boy was a peice of cake. He pulled it on with the winch and nothing scraped on the ground as a result of raising the bags all of the up. I really don't care if Newell or anybody says that you should use the T Bar I can guarantee that mine will never be towed that way if it becomes nessesarry again.
Thats my thoughts and I'm sticking with them.
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