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03-16-2011, 07:38 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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Dometic refrigerator kaput!
I love surprises, gone for a week and come back to find the Dometic refrig. not cooling. Yep, bunch of yellow, ammonia smelling gunk in the back! Plus a bunch of evil-smelling whatever in the freezer. Got the coach airing out right now.
So what would you do: replace refrig with new one ($1500)?
Replace just the cooling unit for about 1/2 the price and hope the board is ok?
Or replace the fridge with a 120volt unit ($500)? Any idea how long 2-8d batteries would last? If it lasts overnight that might be the best option?
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03-16-2011, 08:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 346
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Hi Forest,
Sorry about your refrigerator woes. Since you asked I'll glady give you my thoughts.....
As you know, the sealed refrigerant system has ruptured in some way. It is my experience that leaves only two options for keeping an amonia cycle type refrigerator - replace the enitire unit, or send in the core and received a rebuilt coil and evaporator system. I have done both at one time or the other. There is no reason to believe that your control board is bad too. I would let the condition of the box determine which way I went. If the box is old and you think it may be difficult to get the smell out, a new refrigerator might be the way to go. You will have to check carefully to see if a model with the same dimensions is available.
If you want to go 115vac only, two fully charged 8D's will have no trouble at all with keeping this cool for a night. I do miss the silent operation of the amonia cycle type however.
Good luck,
Russ
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03-16-2011, 08:48 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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Thanks Russ.
I just finished unhooking it. Need to wait until my son can come over to help me pull it out. It looks like a 120v unit will fit. I'll know for sure once it's out. I'm thinking the 120v unit may keep a lower temp. than the gas unit, and since there is a 120v receptacle already there I might go that route. Just trying to weigh my options.
How difficult was it to replace the cooling unit? I've heard the Amish rebuilt ones may be better?
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03-16-2011, 09:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Idyllwild, CA
Posts: 1,340
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Forest,
I had an older refrigerator repaired for our vintage Airstream. The guys that I took that unit to were great! They repaired the old coil was burned through where the Flame was, they told me that was very typical.
If you will be doing much dry-camping you may not like having a 115 Volt AC Refrigerator.
If you need I can look through my records to find the repair shop but you should have someone closer. Good luck with this.
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have Coach will Travel
Steve & Tricia
1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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03-16-2011, 09:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Forest Ranch, Ca for the summer
Posts: 299
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I had the exact same problem about 2 years ago. I was looking for a replacement & Lowe's had a floor model Whirlpool for less than $300 delivered, in black. This is the second time I've had this problem in an RV & the AC unit was the best way for me. It is quite a bit larger and cools much faster, even freezes when is 100+ outside, which the original unit never did. It is quiter than the ice maker!
I have 2 non deepcycle 8D's that came with Newell. When camping without AC, I can go +/- 18 hours & that includes running a 42" LCD tv on the batteries.
As I recall I had to enlarge the cabinet about 1/2" on each side.
Also I added a rubber seal on the sides & top, that attaches to the cabinet walls & seals against the frig when you slide it in. I think it was meant for a garage door bottom seal.
I closed off 2 of the 3 vent openings in the exterior access door, & closed off 1/2 the roof vent.
After I leveled it, I retained it by some screws in the back to the compartment floor.
Also I put in a switch to shut off the freezer defroster when I run it off the batteries.
Lastly you will need the fabricate a door(s) lock for traveling. I drilled a hole between the 2 doors & used a spring loaded locking pin which retains both doors. Just have to remember to put it in before I travel!
__________________
Gordon Hummel
1991 41.5' #266
8v92
2009 Pontiac Vibe GT Toad
Fulltime on the road
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03-16-2011, 11:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 1,221
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Does anyone know how the exhaust flue is connected? I can't see to disconnect it and don't want to just yank it out.
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03-17-2011, 07:51 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 1,543
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Forest.....I was just thinking today that I hadn't seen you post anything in a while....too bad it was because something broke. Will be interested in your solution.
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03-21-2011, 11:52 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 45
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replacement cooling unit
I have replaced two cooling units. One of our own and a friends. One you do it you will find it so easy to be almost scary. There are some excellent instruction on the net.
If you like to boondock that is the way I would go. My biggest complaint about the Newell is the Amana refrigerator we have. A power pig.
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Gary Carter
'93 43.5' #318
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