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Old 08-29-2009, 02:28 PM   #1
express1
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The best I can explain. During my crossing from Bryce Canyon to Moab. (this was the hardest climb yet) my low coolant light came on. I lost power from turbo (0) boost. However temps were OK. I checked levels and all was well. (the overflow jug was near full) the light stayed on. With only 15 miles to go, I continued on to RV Site. We road into Grand Junction by car, for the evening letting everything cool down.
This morning I checked levels again and 0 coolant in overflow jug. I add about 1-2 quarts of coolant. We are staying here a few days.....
I am confused as to what happened. Any ideas?
Did some safety feature kick it?
I will start and run this afternoon.
Thanks to all for any suggestion on what to check ?
Matt & Connie (still no return trip home planned) Having way to much fun.
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Old 08-29-2009, 02:58 PM   #2
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Hey Matt.....no idea on this end. On the climb what did your radiator temp get up to? What is the capacity of your overflow jug? The loss of power from the turbo is a concern. I'm sure Michael, Richard and Tom will have some thoughts.

You picked the HOT time of year to visit Moab....have you been to Zion yet?
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Old 08-29-2009, 02:58 PM   #3
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Ok, before leaving the coach to go sightseeing, I started up. The low coolant light and check engine light are still on!!! Whats up? The coolant is not low and the engine is just started. I also have no high idle. (no change when I switch)
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Old 08-29-2009, 03:00 PM   #4
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Yes we did see most of Zion, however Bryce is still KING. (great view of tax money spent) Temps got up to 210+-
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Old 08-29-2009, 03:38 PM   #5
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210+ is getting near the danger zone....you may have boiled over a little. Have you tried starting it today, and, if so, are you getting any turbo boost?
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Old 08-29-2009, 04:40 PM   #6
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Matt, the DDEC controlled engines such as yours do have a coolant level sensor. If it signals the control module that there is not adequate coolant in the system, the engine controller will start taking power away from the engine to protect itself. Cutting boost is one of the ways the DDEC cuts power.

I presume you added coolant to the overflow jug, is that correct? If so, your radiator may still be down significantly. If you have direct access to the radiator, open the cap on it and see if it really is full. I suspect that the coolant filled the overflow tank and then overflowed from there. After the engine cooled down, the system drew the coolant remaining in the overflow tank back into the radiator but enough coolant had been lost that the radiator is still low. If you do have a full radiator and don't have an air lock somewhere in the system, the coolant level indicator should turn off. If the radiator, not just the overflow tank is really full, it is possible that the coolant level sensor has failed.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:14 PM   #7
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Matt,

Sorry to hear about the coolant problem. Michael is right; the series 60 will not let itself overheat - instead it will shut down.

Remember to always fill the radiator up first then keep the overflow tank about 1/2 full. Too many times we quickly look only at the overflow tank. It is really the radiator that has to be checked. I think that your problems will disappear when the radiator gets filled up.

Remember when we were in Madison, WI and the radiator cap access door was locked and wouldn't open with the key! That is what needs to be checked along with the oil level, tires, etc. everytime you start it up. Also remember to check the generator radiator too.

One last thing, when an engine gets hot it can burn oil (depending on how long it has run hot). Check that oil level when you check the radiator level. You will probably have to add oil.

On my first trip crossing Raton Pass in New Mexico my 8V92 overheated, we pulled over to let it cool down. I checked the oil first and it was 2 GALLONS LOW! I was also low on radiator coolant.

It's an easy thing to over look, but it is very important to do when you are driving in the mountains and in extreme heat.

Glad you're having fun. I knew you would like Bryce Canyon NP.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:50 PM   #8
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hi matt,

sorry for the problems. when it is really hot out and going up grades, i think caution is necessary no matter how smart we think the DDEC computer is.

the DDEC is totally dependent on sensors, and sensors are not always totally right.

i know the series 60 is a near bullet proof engine, but heat is heat. the only different with a 8v92 is the rubber O rings that burn up when overheated and cause much more damage.

i used to manage the group that designed the Ford EEC series of engine controllers. so i know enough to be dangerous..

i think sometimes we tend to rely on technology more than we should and that comes from a semiconductor jockey like myself. we should always be looking at temps and boost and oil pressure etc just to be sure. the DDEC uses different sensors than the dash guages do in most if not every case. so it is a good double check as to what is going on.

the other guys are spot on about the coolant. on the radiator on my 8v92 camper, there is a sight glass that give a quick visual indication of fluid levels. the DDEC level sensor is slightly below that level.

i dont know if on yours there is a sight glass, but i do check that almost every time i get going. just filling the overflow is not good enough.

gee, if you have a DDEC2 and you were nearby, i just bought a DDDEC1 and 2 engine scaner and we could see what codes got loaded....

i dont know if they changed to ddec3 in 96 or not. i know richards 95 is a ddec2.

good luck,

tom
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Old 08-29-2009, 07:59 PM   #9
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tom,

When Matt and I were picking up the coach in Madison, WI, Matt had the codes run on the engine and the tranny. If memory serves me it is a DDEC III series 60. All the codes were good on both the transmission and engine. No over heating issues, etc.

I am pretty sure (but Matt can verify it) he has a sight glass next to the radiator neck. So you're right, he would not have to physically open the radiator cap - just take a quick look at the sightglass.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:27 PM   #10
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matt told me about getting the codes read. if he overheated it, it will be in the code history now, as well as the low coolant lite. it tells you at what engine hour it happened and for how many seconds.

i believe the series 60 also does coolant and oil temp as well as coolant level and oil pressure.

the only thing about the coolant level sensor is that it is either 100 percent full or 100% empty when in reality it is just reading the upper sensor and the level at it. at least that is the way it is with my 8v92 radiator.

hope he finds the radiator low, fills it and everthing is ok.

i still stick to my guns on not 100% counting on the DDEC, but to use the gauges and monitor the temps, boost and pressures.

thats my opinion and in this case i think it is worth more than 2 cents.

tom
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:30 PM   #11
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Matt,
Get your Rocks Off! I mean her Rocks Off, I mean maybe there are too many rocks aboard.
Seriously make sure that you Don't take the Radiator Cap off when the Engine is Hot only Cold. I check the Radiator levels before starting the Engine otherwise you could get a scalding bath.
I only use Distilled Water with the Coolant in order to keep the mineral levels down in the Radiator.
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:02 AM   #12
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Thanks to all for replies..... Connie and I spent the day (all day over 100 miles in a jeep climbing in canyonland....We look like racoons after all the dust settled.
Back at the coach now. Connie prays alot. And today was no different.... After showering I started the engine......AND all seems well. The low coolant light and check engine light don't remain on.

During the incident the fluids were up to stuff.... All were full ....yes the radiator and sight glass showed full.
The prodriver does show situation refering to low coolant.

Again thanks to all for helpful input.
However, tomorrow we ATTACK ARCHES.........
I will call Newell on Monday and get direction to have engine serviced.......
checked out for possible sensor failure......
Thats what Connie said it was!!!
thanks again.
Maybe tomorrow evening someone could walk me thru reading the ProDriver info....
thanks one more time.
Matt & Connie
sorry for any mispelling!!!! or grammer!!
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:39 AM   #13
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if I figure out how to post attachments, I'll show the rocks collected!!!
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Old 08-30-2009, 04:43 AM   #14
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Just ask Connie to leave the Arches there and not try to take them home. I have proof that they were there.
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:24 AM   #15
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Matt,

I'll not tell Rhonda about your trip. The Bryce/Zion/Arches/Moab loop was our planned summer sabbatical until she busted her ankle. There is always next year.

By the way, did you hike Angel's Landing?
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Old 08-30-2009, 12:51 PM   #16
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Richard, I had trouble walking the paved paths. Hey, I am not that out of shape.
We are going to need a vacation from this TRIP!!
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:18 AM   #17
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Default the low down

The rest of the story goes. after the low coolant light continued to stay on during cold start up. I call Ron at Newell. He advised , if coolant levels were correct, make a jumper and disconnect sensor. I did. Started engine and had full power again. Check engine light stayed on.... this was expected. I drove into Grand Jucntion and went to Stwart Stevenson Shop. This is a first class location. With little work going on. They started that afternoon.
Replaced sensor.
flushed radiator
changed hub cap on front left wheel. I noticed spots of oil spinning out.
Ran codes, found only low coolant sensor error. voltage issue.
all else was clean and good to go.

the bottom line.
failed sensor then computer did its job. cut power to prevent damages.
again thanks to all for advise.

We are now at Tiger Run.
pretty dumpy place.

matt & connie
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Old 09-03-2009, 07:08 AM   #18
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Sorry to hear about Tiger Run but glad you isolated the problem to the sensor.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:54 PM   #19
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Hey Matt...glad to hear all is well. Stewart-Stevenson is a good outfit.

Are you kidding about Tiger Run, or is it really a dump?
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:12 PM   #20
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www.tigerrunresort.com
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