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Old 01-29-2012, 01:36 AM   #1
encantotom
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Default dupree manual valve body cracked

hi all,

today i did plumbing. replaced the ball valve that was leaking on the clear water drain (hard to get at....), put in a replacement 12v solenoid for the autofill valve and replumbed it. and put a new watts water pressure regulator in. i also changed the clear bodied water filter cartridge. it was so tight i had to take it out to get the cannister off.

now my real problem. the manual dupree valve off the bottom of the poo tank was leaking like crazy. i finally saw that the valve body is cracked 3-4 inches and when i took the paddle assembly out, the top of the valve body crumbled.

i talked to richard and he wisely suggested trying to glue and goop it up before tearing it all apart. i will abs glue it, clamp it, then jbweld the snot out of it and try to rebuild the plastic up where it has crumbled with jbweld. then silicone it to death.

any wisdom? if i have to take it out and replumb it, there isnt much room in there. does anyone know if the pipe coming off the bottom of the poo tank is glued in? i assume so.

is there any other glue or repair stuff like jbweld that any of you have used that i could try?

thanks

tom

if not, then i got to tear all that plumbing out and that aint gonna be fun.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:40 AM   #2
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i did a bunch of research tonite. there is a product called plast-aid.

i ordered it and feel pretty confident i can repair the crack and broken piece on the valve. i have nothing to lose and it will be a big pain to replace it.

tom
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:59 PM   #3
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Good find Tom.
I bookmarked that site, let us know how well it works.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:24 PM   #4
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After watching that video I am sold! that stuff may help, keep me informed.
I did find another link that may be helpful with your repair, she has a pretty good suggestion;
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:35 PM   #5
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Finally someone posts a helpful suggestion!!!!!
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:45 PM   #6
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You will find it's easier to replace it with a new Dupree valve. Just cut the hard plumbed pipe and install a rubber boot. I did this and it took about an hour in total time. Just cut the pipe directly against the back of the valve. I uses a small hacksaw blade for metal and it cut easily. Then slip a rubber boot (sleeve) with hose clamps on the tank side and then take a new valve and insert and glue a pipe about 5 inches long into the valve and clamp the boot on that end. I did the same thing on the passenger side when the original failed and the inside paddle got stuck. Totl cost to do both sides was about $70 and included 2 new valves from Dupree,rubber boot and clamps. Make sure you grease the threaded bolt well and silicone the tops on before you screw them in. Good luck.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:12 PM   #7
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hi,

so, i only have about 2 inches or a little more between the valve body and the tank. you were able to get a rubber boot on that little space? or did you have more room than that? also on the opposite of the valve body is a 90 and there is no room for boots on any of that. unless i am missing something i would have to replumb that entire section. and replace the valve body for the air valve as well.

and there is no room to move the valves towards the door to give more room.

was yours in the config i show below in the pictures?

thanks

tom
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #8
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Hi Tom,
If you decide to cut the pipe close to the valve you may find this pipe saw useful. I think they are available at Home lowes.

http://www.generaltools.com/858--PVC...SAW_p_121.html
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:46 PM   #9
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i do wayyyy too much sprinkler repair. in otherwords i already have one.

thanks though...

tom
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:56 PM   #10
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Tom,

CORRECTION: Hopefully there was no confusion from my posting. I went back & looked at my dump plumbing and it is exactly the same as Tom's.


Looks like another case of "no two Newells the same". Your dump plumbing is way different than mine.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:34 AM   #11
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After looking at your pics I can see that my 2003 has a different configuration and offers at least 3 to 4 more inches of space away from the tank. The hard plumb next to it comes from above on my coach, not from the rear forward and that also offers more space to work. I have a 90 degree like you but it is not directly attached to the valve. Mine has a 3 to 4 inch spacer. My coach is in storage too far away to get photos right away but will post in future after my next trip.
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:41 AM   #12
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i got the plast-aid in the mail and tonite i patched the broken piece and fixed the long crack in the side seam. i abs glued it first then built it up using the plast-aid.

i built up where the big chunk had broken out and built it up on the side quite a bit to give more strength where the screw hole needs to be drilled.

tomorrow i will file it on the inside and the top to make the valve fit down and seal. then i will silicone her up and see if it stays sealed.

this plast-aid sure drys fast. i used some acrylic black paint to dye it black when i mixed it and it is the same color as the valve.

i took some left over plast-aid after i mixed it up and used it to stick a penny standing up on a pvc plumbing fitting.

with my bare hands i cannot break the penny off the fitting. on their web site they bend it with a pair of pliers. i will have to try that.

i will take pictures tomorrow of what i did.

i did find a special rubber and stainless coupler that is small enough to fit in the gap if i end up having to replace the valve body. i hope i dont because it will be another 50 bucks...

later

tom
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:12 AM   #13
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here are pictures of the penny i glued to a pvc fitting. i used a pliers and bent the penny just holding the fitting with my hands.

it held firm just like in the plast-aid pictures on their web site.

i am pretty impressed i have to say.

tom
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:53 PM   #14
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That is very impressive. I would think an onboard supply of Plast-Aid is an imperative.
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:45 PM   #15
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There is so much we can learn from Tom. The Plast-aid site bent a quarter, but Tom did the same thing and saved 24 cents.

Russ
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:55 PM   #16
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But did he buy new pliers?
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:10 PM   #17
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I didn't realize that Tom was putting in a pay toilet.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:27 AM   #18
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only the mid toilet is pay. that is the one that visitors use.

ok, i finished the dupree valve repair. i spent an hour or so fileing and sanding the repair so the valve guts would go in. this plast-aid is pretty amazing stuff. i had built up the back side where the screw hole was to re-enforce it. after getting it all fitting just right, i carefully marked and drilled the pilot hole for the valve mounting screws. i started small and worked my way up and then slowly thread the screw in. it worked just fine.

i lubed and silconed the valve guts in and it is done. i didnt wet check it yet, but i know it is ok. i was careful and i am sure it will be ok. the side crack repair was strong as well.

pictures below.

yea, i know i could have cut the whole thing out and put in two new valve bodies, but whats the fun in that.

tom
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:31 AM   #19
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You said the Plastaid "drys" fast. You also said you mixed some black acrylic to die it. I have done this before, the addition of the acrylic accelerates the cure. Something in the acrylic messes with the epoxy curing reaction.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:11 PM   #20
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Good job! I was waiting for you to be the guinea pig. Now it looks like I'll have to add Plast-Aid to my bag of tricks.
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