Window Replacement Options - Slanted to Rectangular - Luxury Coach Lifestyles
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:22 AM   #1
my38special
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Default Window Replacement Options - Slanted to Rectangular

I own a 1983 Newell with stock single-pane slanted windows and I would like to replace them with rectangular double-pane windows. I believe this would update the look and, of course, provide slightly increased visibility. Does anyone know if this can be done? It appears that I could cut out the opening larger and stay within limitations set by the structural ribs. Are there wiring or other problems hidden behind the walls close to the windows? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:48 AM   #2
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Maybe Clarke can be of assistance on this one since he has an '82. Looks like there would be quite a bit of metal to be removed to change to rectangular windows. There is a limited amount of wiring running vertically in walls. Most of the wiring is run near the ceiling or near the floor.

I will take a look at the rivets on Clarke's coach tomorrow but I can't imagine the ribs not clearing at the widest portion of the current window so if you could keep the current max horizontal dimension you should clear the aluminum ribs.
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Old 01-03-2009, 04:23 PM   #3
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hi,

i replaced the windows in my coach last year. i used the penninsula double pane series 1800 windows. they are quite pricey, but they are the best priced and highest quality ones out there. they treat you very nice there as well.

a few things...

mine was already rectangular, so i did not change the shape of the windows. that said, at least on mine, it would have been quite a bit of work to change the shape of the windows. there is a square aluminum tubing that is sandwiched between the aluminum skin and the interior plywood. you would have to drill that out (riveted) and put another one in and rivet it in as well. the rivets are only on the inside on mine through the plywood into the tubular frame. i am guessing the skin on the outside is glued to the tube frame as there are no rivets because they would stop the window from sealing on the outside. the rivets are recessed on the inside.

like michael said, the biggest thing is going to be if there are exterior skin rivets in line with where you would want to cut out for the new windows. i am guessing that will not be a problem given there are no rivets in that plane on the diagonal now.

as for wiring, i dont think that will be a problem. the other thing is getting the windows measured correctly. you want to minimize the amount of trim painting that you do on the outside after replacing the windows.

if you do replace them, contact me and i will give you the hints and tips on what i learned on putting mine in. i did have to do some slight filing of at least one window opening. also, i have some tricks on caulking the oustside to seal them up that i learned the hard way.

you should get a bid on windows and see if you really want to spend that much money. i had to replace one of mine due to damage, so it was not a choice other than do i do all or just one. since they look different, i chose to do all of them.

btw, i did 8 windows and did not replace the drivers and passenger front windows since it would have required taking the dash off on the drivers side and that is not for the fainthearted. so, i opted to totally rebuild them with new materials. they work almost like new now. for some reason i had double pane penninsula glass windows on the front and single pane another brand for the rest.

i love the new windows and they are quiet and easy to use.

later

tom
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:08 PM   #4
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Hi 38,
I had considered doing the same mod on my '78 before I decided to sell it. As I've talked to people who like the classic Newells many of them have opined that they like the look of the slanted windows. My point is that if you decide to sell you may not recoup any of the extra cost of converting if that is significant.
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:08 AM   #5
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Good point. There are probably more folks that prefer the diagonal windows on the Classic than would prefer the straight windows.
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Old 01-04-2009, 03:01 AM   #6
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you will not get a single dollar back on money spent on windows is my belief. i did it because i wanted to, not for resale.

btw, they are very expensive (to me). my windows were $3700 for 8 of them

later

tom
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:42 PM   #7
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I must had been away when this post was active. When I originally purchased my first Newell about 8 yrs ago, I was thinking about changing the windows out to the rectangular ones, mainly because they were a tad higher and double pane. I found a deal on surplus at a deep discount, but they all came up an inch short in length. After replacing a full sheet of inner wall plywood, it looked relatively easy to do the job. On mine, I would have only had to drill out a couple rivets on the angle aluminum pieces, cut the shorter portion of the wood at opposite corners to match the longer ones. And of course raise the height a couple of inches in the process. But, from what I remember, there were no issues with outside rivets or wiring.

Tom, I'm curious about your outside sealing technique. I'm about ready to do mine shortly.

Ken
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:04 PM   #8
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hi ken,

to prevent making an absolute mess of sealing the windows outside, here is what i did. i am sure if you are an expert caulker, you might not need to do this but it was the only way not to make an absolute mess for me.

i used pinstriping tape i got at an auto paint store. i went around the windows and then followed up with a little wider masking tape.

i put the pinstriping tape almost flush with the edge of the window.

then i used black silicone sealant and went around the windows and pushed it in with my fingers, wiped off any extra and then after a little while peeled up the tape.

i tried doing it without tape and the black silicone got all over the place.

like is said, i am sure there is a better way, but it was the only thing i could think of.

tom in tel aviv getting ready to come home after ther 3rd international trip in the last 5 weeks.....
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:38 AM   #9
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btw, my post above was for windows that were already in place. to seal the windows as you put them INTO the coach there are two ways. i have tried both and one is far easier than the other.

when i got my new windows from penninsula they said to use the one side sticky foam that they sent with the windows. then to caulk the outside if i still wanted to. the tape is applied to the window first.

before that and i tried using the butyl rubber gooy putty tape. i know places use it, but it is a real mess if it is warm at all.

so i have alot of the stuff laying around i didnt use...the putty tape that is.

tom
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:30 PM   #10
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LOL! Yesterday, I went out purchased from an automotive paint store, 5/16" butyl tape, 1/4" & 3/4" masking tape, and Clear sealant (Big Stretch). I have used putty tape and butyl in the past and agree butyl can be messy, and it is has been pretty hot out. I wonder if the foam tape your referring to, is like the foam tape used on canopy's. I have purchased it in the past at Home Depot. Do you remember the width and thickness of the foam tape?

I am pulling the window completely out to do the best job possible.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:24 PM   #11
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call penninsula and ask them, i dont remember

i would never use the butyl putty again.

tom
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:19 AM   #12
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Ok, thanks again Tom. I'll call them tomorrow and see what size and type of seal they recommend. I agree with not liking the butyl. I have used it for years in automotive apps and liked the day they came out with urethane sealant as a much better stronger product.
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