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Old 09-29-2009, 05:20 PM   #1
GORDON HUMMEL
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Default Engine Air Filter

In the process of doing a service, I was horrified @ the cost of the air filter. Of course it is also the housing, on mine, not just an element, $ but 187.00 @ O'reilly's for a Wix #46851 seems high. NAPA #6851 was $ 204. The Donaldson P524838 is < $90.00 wholesale, but I have to buy +/- 20 of them. Same with the Fram CA6623.

Just wanted to see what others are doing on this item ?
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:54 PM   #2
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Wow...I wish mine had been as low as $187! I paid closer to $300 for the filter on my 1982 6V92TA!
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:26 PM   #3
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I just did a google search with that part number;
http://www.machinerypartsstore.com/s...n:P524838.html
$113.78 = shipping. I know of a place in Yuma where I get my Donaldson filters that may have a better price but they do not accept credit cards anymore.
Donaldson is a very well respected Filter and I prefer them.
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:37 PM   #4
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Thanks, Steve...I've added that link to my Newell folder for future reference. I just replaced mine about 1 year ago. How often should they be replaced???
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:46 PM   #5
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I have a Vacuum Gauge that is attached to the Air Filter. The Vacuum Gauge shows in the Red Band when the Filter is Dirty---elevated vacuum, the intake becomes restricted from a Dirty Filter.
Here is picture showing the Vacuum Gauge, it is located just to the left of the Start Switch.
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1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:55 PM   #6
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I don't have that vacuum gauge....would it be difficult to install? Can I pickup one at Autozone, or is this a specialty item?
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:07 PM   #7
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Check your Filter Cannister for a tube where you could attach the Gauge. Should be a simple piece of tubing to the Canister. It may be harder to find the Gauge than to hook it up. You may check with a Truck Parts Store try Franklin Truck Parts;
http://www.franklintruckparts.com/
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https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:19 PM   #8
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Hey, found one just like yours at Ryder Fleet Products for $44:

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cg...lm.0&oid=51561
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2002 Thunderbird Retro
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale Bad Boy
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:27 PM   #9
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With the cost of a new filter and the results from running with a clogged filter, it does make sense to have all of the help we can get.
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Steve & Tricia
1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:20 PM   #10
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i think i paid about 120 bucks for mine at a truck filter shop in phoenix.

if you shop around, you can find them cheaper than the first ones you find.

btw, i write the installation date and mileage on the end with a magic marker.

tom
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:14 AM   #11
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Does anyone have the part #'s for the various filters for our 8v92?
Or know where I can look them up.
Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:47 AM   #12
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Donaldson P537449

Ecolite Parker # 062891003 this is the one i got.

but please check by measurements on yours.

i paid 123.05 for mine this last time.

tom
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:56 AM   #13
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Forest,
You can find the part number on the Air Filter but you may need to remove it in order to read it. The Oil Filter and Fuel Filters should be much easier but the numbers are on the Filters themselves. Again I prefer Donaldson Filters but that is primarily because this company has been around so long and how they are packaged.
I carry 2 Oil Filters (this same filter fits my Alison Transmission as well as the 6V92 DD. I also carry a few Fuel Filters, I am still changing them fairly regular because our Prairie Schooner sat so long before we got it.
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1982 Newell 38' (built before #1) 6V92 DD, 5 Speed Allison, 12.5 KW Kohler, Couch used to make into a Bed but I fixed it!
https://newellshowcase.com/thumbnails.php?album=214
2007 Yukon, 1981 CJ7 Laredo, 2002 Honda CRV, 1955 Thunderbird, 1952 Pontiac Sedan Delivery, 1952 Ford 8N, 1958 Airstream, 1959 Glasspar 16' Avalon, Cabin in the Woods........what will I work on next
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:12 PM   #14
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mine was a parker ecolite 062891003

the donaldson part number is P537449

i paid $123 a couple of years ago

tom
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:42 PM   #15
larryweikart
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Default engine air filter

Well, I just spent another frustrating 5 hours changing my engine air filter! What a job! I'm curious if everyone, who has a series 60 around the same build time as mine, has the same problem changing the filter or maybe they have discovered an easier way to complete this task. I believe my coach, #365 has one of the first series 60 engines installed at Newell. I also think Newell must have changed the setup quickly as the way mine is configured certainly drew complaints. Thank heaven it is only required every 50k miles. Here's a pic of my set up.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:42 AM   #16
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Larry,

Can you elaborate or post a pic of the air filter? I see the air intake runner but I can't get a good look at the filter. I have coach 390, so mine may be like yours.

What is the challenge in changing the filter?
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:46 AM   #17
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Richard,

I've already installed the new filter and have disposed of the old one. We are in a snow storm tonight and I don't know if I can get to our building tomorrow. When I can, I'll try to take a pic of the installed filter. The process for installing my new one consists of completely removing both turbo pipes and then releasing the 2 straps that hold the filter tight to the sidewall flange. After that it is a tight fit to remove the filter from the brackets, but with patience (which I tend to run out of) it will come out. That's the easier part. Putting the new filter in and getting the pipes properly returned to their original position can be a bear! There is not much tolerance so they have to be pretty exact in placement. Then re-tightening all the straps wraps up the job! I believe a key to not getting too frustrated is to be certain to loosen all metal straps well so that the pipes can slide out of the rubber hoses as easily as possible. This is my 3rd replacement and it certainly hasn't gotten any easier. As a side note, I would hate to have to pay the labor costs to someone who has never replaced one in me era of Newell before.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:11 AM   #18
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Ok, yours is just like mine. No need to brave the snow.

When I worked on my engine. I got lots of practice removing and installing the turbo pipes. LOTS.

First a 10mm nutdriver to loosen the clamps is a must. Second, one of those hose remover tools, the ones with a right angle bend at the end, helps. You scoot the nose of the tool between the hose and the pipe and walk it around to loosen the hose. Third. DO NOT USE any sort of grease to help reassemble the pipes and hoses. They will come back apart. Trust me, I know these things. You can use a little, and I mean a little soapy water to help slip them back together. And last, don't tighten any of the clamps till you get it all back together and lined up the way you want it. It definitely is a jig saw puzzle of angles and rotation to get it all back in place.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:03 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info Richard. I have never used one of those hose remover tools but I will be getting one soon. I have always sprayed a little penetrating oil on the pipes to help them slip back in, which I believe is ok. One question that has always entered my mind is how tight should you tighten the hose clamps? I usually tighten them down pretty good but there is always a little more room to tighten if I were to apply heavy pressure on the ratchet handle. I am a little concerned if you apply too much pressure you could possibly put a slit in the rubber. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 12-07-2011, 02:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chockwald View Post
Thanks, Steve...I've added that link to my Newell folder for future reference. I just replaced mine about 1 year ago. How often should they be replaced???
Based on my observations, the most common cause of turbo failure in a rear engine coach is a dirty air filter. If you've ever driven on a dusty road, you will have an appreciation for how the rear of the coach literally ‘vacuums’ up the dust and the dirt. Much the same happens when you pass through a construction area where the concrete cutters have left a fine talcum powder like dust on the roadway.

As an air filter begins to ‘clog’, the inflow of air is reduced and a low pressure area develops within the turbo. Without copious amounts of fresh air for the turbine wheel to compress, the turbine wheel can over-speed and self destruct. The high vacuum can also pull the oil past the bearing seal and into the compressor. The reduced air flow also creates excessive exhaust temperatures that can damage the bearing and crack the turbine housing.

Another problem is turbo blade damage caused by break-down of the air filter element. Most air filters use a hard glue to secure the paper elements. As the filter ‘clogs’ and starts to deform, the ‘chunks’ of dried glue can dislodge and get sucked into the spinning blades. With turbine wheel’s spinning in excess of 50,000 RPM this can lead to catastrophic turbine failure.

Rather than strictly adhere to a fixed hour, mileage, or calendar schedule, I suggest adjusting your filter changes based on how you use your coach. I also recommend frequent checks of your filter ‘vacuum gauge’, along with flashlight inspections of your air filter. Careful attention to your air filter, can help to preclude high cost turbo change-outs and empty wallets.

John
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