I am checking out a Newell This weekend and apparently it has sat anywhere from 2.5 to 3 years or more and the owner stateed it has roughly 1/2 tank of fuel. Do I need to worry about the condition of the fuel in the tank? and is there anything else I should be concerned about?
Mine was hidden in a warehouse for 2 years before the bank found it that I bought it from. It needed quite a bit.. Change out all the 25 plus filters and air dryers and new fluids to start. Load test your batteries to 750amp, Check the DOT stamps on tires and Newell changes 3 years on steering tires and 5 years on others,Check water sytem for leaks and dump valves for dried out paddles, I would drain the fuel tank, but thats just me and prime the engine and genset with new fuel, Spray Brakeleen wherever you see oil or grease buildup and then check for leaks. Air up and check for air leaks after reaching 110lbs. Spray soapy water on any suspicious hoses or fittings to confirm leaks. Most everything else is just check and re check as "Lot Rot" is our biggest enemy.Don't forget the Aquahot, The frig and dishwasher
Larry & Hedy Brachfeld
2003 Double Slide, Detroit 60
Coach # 646
You could have a fuel analysis done as with all the fluids. This would take any fuel quality concerns away. If there was algae fuel treatment added that would be a good thing. It also depends on whether or not it was winter fuel too. I had 3 year old fuel and did the things I just stated even through some nasty winters, after testing I mixed in good fuel, having replacement fuel filters handy and never encountered any problems running the fuel out. But like Larry B. suggested above you can do complete drain and flush of fuel. Oil should be changed every 6 months or the manufacturers stated mileage for that engine, which ever comes first. So records are always a BIG plus.
Previous Owner of 3 Newell's
Wanted: Newell Coach Needing Engine Replacement!
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"I know Iím not perfect, and I don't live to be. But before you start pointing fingers, make sure your hands are clean."
1) The low air light should not be coming on at 90 psi. 2) The engine air compressor (I presume the engine was running when you were witnessing this phenomenon) should kick in WAY before the pressure gets down to 90 psi. With the engine running, the engine air compressor should hold the air pressure between about 105 and 125 psi. With the engine off and the 120 volt air compressor on, the air pressure should be between 75 and 90 (although these points can be adjusted on some compressors). When driving down the road, the air suspension will cause the pressure to drop. When stationary, the system pressure should hold for a minimum of 40 minutes before the air compressor cycles (Newell's standard). If you have gone through the coach and located and corrected the leaks, it should hold for hours. Note: if the brake air is going down with the system air pressure with the engine running and not hitting the brakes, you have a serious safety issue and you need to replace the air brake check valves and determine if there are any leaks in the brake system that need to be addressed. Losing brake air can ruin you entire afternoon when the rear brakes lock up at 60 psi.
However, based on the low air light coming on at very high pressure readings, I would go with Forest's answer. The pressure switch could be bad or you could have a bad connection.