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11-27-2012, 06:09 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 8
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1991 Newell Coach With Undercarriage Rust How to Prevent Further Rusting
When looking under this used 1991 Newell Coach, I saw some rust here and there on nothing particular. I am in the middle of making a deal and want to know which lubricant you recommend to spray these areas with to inhibit the rust that is there and prevent further rusting...Thanks for your replies and safe miles.
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11-27-2012, 08:00 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Boise Idaho
Posts: 719
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Rust is like cancer, it needs to be removed completely to stop the spread. I would sand/soda/glass/etc. blast the rust off, prime the area and cover with an appropriate paint. You can pick up an air blast gun for as little as $15 at Harbor Freight.
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Jon & Chris Everton
1986 40' Dog House #86
0 hp 8V92 Allison HT740
Soon to be 500hp ISM with ZF 6 Speed
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11-27-2012, 09:40 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 180
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Jon is correct. We have looked at so many conversions and Newells, with a few having rust and of course the older they were the more prominent rust was. Corrosion is another problem on the aluminum to watch for. Lubricants are only going to stop things temporary. You have to stop the rust from continuing.
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Brady K. Jones
1986 Newell 40' 8v92
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11-27-2012, 09:43 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Prescott Valley, AZ
Posts: 237
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Rust is extremely difficult to stop, but it can be controlled. Rust on major chassis parts (i.e., frame rails) doesn't concern me as much as rust on fasteners (nuts/bolts/etc)which is a concern for obvious reasons. I recommend wire-brushing or chipping away as much rust as possible and then brushing on a rust neutralizing product There are lots of products out there, doubtless you will get many more recommendations.
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1978 39 FT. Newell Classic
Jeff & Leann Shackly
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11-27-2012, 11:26 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newell Attack
Rust is extremely difficult to stop, but it can be controlled. Rust on major chassis parts (i.e., frame rails) doesn't concern me as much as rust on fasteners (nuts/bolts/etc)which is a concern for obvious reasons. I recommend wire-brushing or chipping away as much rust as possible and then brushing on a rust neutralizing product There are lots of products out there, doubtless you will get many more recommendations.
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I have tried several solutions to this problem. Undersides get pummelled by stones and other debris. Any coating that is not self-healing will eventually allow moisture to penetrate the metal. My most recent project ( an Imperial car trailer) I wire brushed all loose corrosion off, sprayed it with Eastwood Rust Converter
Eastwood Rust Converter Aerosol - Remove Rust - Rust Converter Paint - Eastwood
, and then top coated with Fluid Film. Fluid Film stays somewhat moist so it will self heal when abraided but will eventually wear off and need recoating.
Fluid Film Rust Protection
Dean
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1993 Newell 45'#316, 1976 Trans Am 455, 1967 GTO, 1953 Chevrolet 3105 (panel truck),1952 Chevrolet 3600,1969 Airstream Overlander. Always fixing something!
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11-28-2012, 12:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Boise Idaho
Posts: 719
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Dean, I've never heard of or tried either product but judging by your signature line and your testimony they are definitely now on my list of rust fighters. Thank you!
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Jon & Chris Everton
1986 40' Dog House #86
0 hp 8V92 Allison HT740
Soon to be 500hp ISM with ZF 6 Speed
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11-28-2012, 12:59 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 156
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I recently looked at an 04 on the west coast that originally came from Florida. When you opened the outside compartments, all the nuts and bolts were rusted. The aluminum seams around the coach had corrosion that was bubbling up the paint. The outside water controls all had pitting and corrosion on them. The inside was very nice and the miles were good but I couldn't shell out that kind of money and come home with a headache. I felt like I would be working on that problem from now on and at resell time I was going to take a hit. I passed!
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Jimmy and Debbie Daniel
1991 43' 6" Newell coach 279
San Antonio show coach
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11-28-2012, 05:21 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Heartland
Posts: 3,563
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I had a coach that spent a lot of time down in Florida for a few years and it too had a considerable amount of rust. As Dean was mentioning about trapping the moisture, this is what I found on this particular coach between the insulating foam and the sheet metal on the bottom side. The foam was trapping a lot of water. I know the classic body's have problems with water getting into the basement areas from seams and doors. Something important on these is to make sure the drip rails are sealed well.
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Ken
Previous Owner of 3 Newell's
Wanted: Newell Coach Needing Engine Replacement!
If you want to sell, PM or Private Message me. Thanks!
"I know I’m not perfect, and I don't live to be. But before you start pointing fingers, make sure your hands are clean."
-Bob Marley
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11-28-2012, 02:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 133
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I have had headaches with rust in my life and it's a royal pain in the butt! It's amazing how fast it spreads. If you take care of it before it gets worse with the different suggestions offered here you should be alright.
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1987 Newell
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11-28-2012, 05:37 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 118
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I suppose it depends on what the "nothing particular" is. Just about anything can be sprayed with regular rubberized undercoating.
Check this out:
Mascoat Transportation Thermal Insulation - Auto Insulation : Mascoat
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Jimmy Dean Ross
1988 Newell Coach
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11-28-2012, 05:40 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 31
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You have good answers so far, and my reply might not be what you are looking for, but if you drive your motor home on Winter roads or park it close to salty air shorelines, you need to spray salt terminator on your chassis. It will protect your chassis from road salt while leaving a protective sheen, and when you spray it on after driving on those type roads, it dissolves and NEUTRALIZES the salt. Remember....water alone will NOT wash away the road salt.
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